[a dense loner]

what are the holds? don't say left of the arete cos that wouldn't even be funny. i haven't got a clue where this problem goes from, anyone? i have worked out that the top hold is the sloper right of the obvious problem. i tried it using the crimp of said problem with my left hand but don't think that's cricket. any further right looks bizarre. there is a big right hand crimp low down but the span is massive.
what, o what is the beta?

[Johnny Brown]

For those not living in Dense's head, this problem is at Rowtor on the big summit block with the entertaining mantels, just left of the bus-stop.
In contrast with the other probs hereabouts, the topout doesn't sport any cleaned holds

[Bonjoy]

I've seen the top holds cleaned in the past. They are the slopers about a foot and a half right of the obvious prob up the middle. The only person I know who has done dissolution is Nigel, who said it was way overgraded at 7c+. No idea beta wise though.

[Johnny Brown]

Its in the guide at 7b, with the sitter 'a bit harder'.

[Ru]

Like Bonjoy, the only person I could find that had definitely done it, could remember doing it, and could offer a grade was Nigel (who said 7b). The description is from what he said. I then repeated a problem as per the same description - start at an edge left of the arete, slap to slopes and up - but thought it was a bit pointless. For me, prob 10, from a sitter is the proper line, and Dissolution is a filler in. Much better than Dissolution is Raw Deal, using the pocket thing to mantel onto the slab.

[Jim]

Whats the beta for raw deal? all had our pants down yesterday. Do you just need short legs?

[Ru]

There's a pic in the guide I think. Can't remember which hand you start with in the pocket - right?  - and some poor slope for the other. Pull on, slap another bad sloper, get your left foot on a high smear (in the picture) and the hard bit is getting your weight over your left foot - keep udging and pushing left. Eventually you get enough onto you foot to slap another poor slope, match and stand up. About as 'gritstone' as you get.

[Bonjoy]

Yep I done it, cool problem. Bit of a pull on those little sharp crimps to a slopey sloper, match into a slopey sloper, then insist your left leg up to a heel hook and the crux roll/mantle onto the top. Recommended!

[Bonjoy]

Whats the beta for raw deal? all had our pants down yesterday. Do you just need short legs?

Lanky Kim's done it, so that excuse is out the window.

[Nigel]

I did Dissolution by pulling on two bony crimps left of the arete, then slapping the top sloper with my left. This sloper used to always be brushed when I was going there (don't know about now), its just to the right of P10. Then you roll onto the top straight up. As I hazily remember this involved putting a left foot up on the lip of P10 and mantelling like a mentalist.

I thought the moves were really cool but admittedly its a bit of a non-line - the line is really the sitter to P10, which is a fair bit easier than Diss. Mind you the moves are totally independent and fun; its worth doing for the Rowtor completist and anyone who likes problems like that. Which should be everyone.  : I've got 7b+ written down in my little book, whatever that means?

Raw Deal is a much better problem and Ru's beta is spot on. Needs a very cold day so you can lock the pocket, and good grit boots for the foothold. I haven't done it though, I fell off with my foot in the pocket. You work it out.  :?

[Bonjoy]

Like Bonjoy, the only person I could find that had definitely done it, could remember doing it, and could offer a grade was Nigel (who said 7b).

.... the line is really the sitter to P10, which is a fair bit easier than Diss....  I've got 7b+ written down in my little book, whatever that means?

How does that work then :?:

[Jim]

Nigel, the confusion is which boney crimps left of the arete as there is about 4. The finishing slopey slope was clean.
Is there a sitter to the RH arete ?(staying left of the arete obviously using the crimps and crap slopes)

[Ru]

Right, dug out my notes from doing the guide. From conversation with Nigel, got 7b/+ for Dissolution, and somewhat easier for problem 10 sitter. I then went back and did both lines, but found the sitter to 10 harder. Jon Barton did sitter to 10, thought 7a+/7b. I did a bit of thinking and gave them both 7b. As I said, though, apart from Nigel I couldn't find anyone that would own up to doing Dissolution, so more consensus could see the grade shift.

[Bonjoy]

what are the holds? ... i have worked out that the top hold is the sloper right of the obvious problem....

In contrast with the other probs hereabouts, the topout doesn't sport any cleaned holds

The finishing slopey slope was clean.

There is obviously some confusion here regards which sloper is mantled to finish. Jim and Dense seeming to think it's the sloper inches right of the undercut on prob 10 and JB thinking it tops out more direct on the now dirty slopyness. I always assumed it was the later and Nigel's comment about getting a left heel up would seem to support this. Does anyone have a definative answer?

[Bonjoy]

If people were doing/trying the former, I can see why they would dismiss the prob as a shit eliminate.

[Nigel]

How does that work then :?:

Dunno. I probably had a good reason, which I can't remember now.

Nigel, the confusion is which boney crimps left of the arete as there is about 4. The finishing slopey slope was clean.
Is there a sitter to the RH arete ?(staying left of the arete obviously using the crimps and crap slopes)

Bear in mind that its a couple of years since I went there, but I'm fairly positive I used the obvious crimp just creeping into the top of the shot with one of my hands. Can't remember which one though, although its obvious when you're there. Just use whatever you can I suppose, its not really an eliminate as I recall.



Don't know about the sitter to the arete, I don't think I've ever done it, I never really liked the stand-up.

[Nigel]

I always assumed it was the later and Nigel's comment about getting a left heel up would seem to support this. Does anyone have a definative answer?

The sloper is really just a brushed patch in the greeness. It was aways brushed when I went but never chalked. Its pretty slopey as I recall and is totally unused on P10. You take it in your left and put your heel on the lip holds of P10, then do a hard mantel. This is the crux and is miles harder than all the other mantels at Rowtor in my opinion.

So yes, I can confirm it is the right hand sloper and it may well have been covered in lichen yesterday.

[Ru]

Dissolution isn't an eliminate -it's just not a very good problem. It's where nigel says it is, and where ths guide shows it - right of problem 10.

[Bonjoy]

So what you're saying is, i'm right and dense is wrong? No man's brain can be expected to work too well under fake Burbery :roll: .

[Johnny Brown]

Whats the beta for raw deal? all had our pants down yesterday.

just for the record, I had about 3 goes and decided it wasn't cold enough whilst ben had one go in trainers. at no point was there any confusion about a sequence. therefore i feel the pants down call should be rescinded.

I'm fairly positive I used the obvious crimp just creeping into the top of the shot with one of my hands. Can't remember which one though, although its obvious when you're there

If it was obvious thread would not exist. :roll:  however you have cleared things up. apologies for the lack of capitals i am typing with my thumbs due to antihydral application on my tips.  

[a dense loner]

spoke to nigel about it today, it's not obvious at all. i wasn't wrong anywhere, bonjoy may have been right tho. it does goto the sloper i was talking about, it was just the start which was confusing. need that crazy eyes emoticon back

[saltbeef]

what news on the fracture nigel?

[a dense loner]

he sqealed his way up conan yesterday, remembered to start complainin when he had the top