[andy_e]

Has anyone got any good suggestions, VS to E2?

[Fiend]

Everything. Almscliff's that sort of place, all the good stuff is really good.

Apart from Great Western which is mediocre at best apart from the 5 star finish which elevates a cumbersome, lineless eliminate into a two star route, just.

Anyway where was I? Oh yes... Ones I like...

Frankland's Green Crack - I know some people don't rate it but it's quality if you think rather than thrutch.

Black Wall - whatever the VS is at the far end, good fun jug-pulling.

Overhanging Groove - pisses all over GW in terms of line and climbing quality.

Z-Climb Eliminate - since Z Climb itself is nails you might as well do this instead, quite tricky still.

[Control freak]

Black wall Eliminate is alo really good at E2 though really anything there at those grades should be good.

Western Front is E3 but good fun and safe as houses so you might as well have a dabble.

Depth Charge (?) is a nice little HVS solo on Low Man just to the right of Square Chimney

Demon Wall Roof (HVS) and Dolphinian (E1) are also must dos. Birdlime Traverse (HVS) on Black Wall is good fun

There - that should keep you busy for a while

[SA Chris]

Franklands will probably be ultragreen at this time of year. Andi follow the stars and you cant go wrong. Crack of Doom is pretty wild for VS. Cental Crack (Climb?) is steady away (was my first VS there) just no rests when you want to place gear. Anything below VS is usually pretty slippery, so avoid them even for warmups.

[SA Chris]

Nick, I think you mean Demon Wall, not Demon Wall Roof. Too much bouldering boy. Were you belaying Mark S. when he had that ultrasketchout on DW?. Possibly one of the most scary things I have ever seen.

[Stubbs]

To get you into the Almscliff style of things a good start is doing the three crack systems to the left of demon wall (Pot hole direct, Traditional Climb and Bird's Nest Crack). They're all polished, and can feel a little insecure, but if you struggle on any of these i would suggest staying away from Western Front.

Oh and don't listen to Fiend, he's right about Overhanging Groove being better, but Great Western is still awesome, if only for the position at the end of the traverse.

[Fiend]

You might as well abb in and do the 5 star finish from there  :twisted:

P.S. Good suggestion about those warm-ups.

P.P.S. Franklands is always green, won't matter if it's dry.

P.P.P.S. There's another good VS which starts for Birdlime Traverse but instead of it's ultra obscure multiple zig-zag's, takes a nice exposed line to the finish of BWE, I'd rate that one too.

[moose]

it's below your grade range but the Square Chimney & Whisky Crack combo is good fun too - a brief but awkward bit of back'n'footing with a really nice flake-crack to finish.  

Ignore the naysayers re The Great Western (HVS); the "best route on grit" stuff is over the top, but it is very satisfying climb, especially with the "5*" finish.  The exposure as you lurch right and sink that hand-jam is wonderful.  Overhanging Groove (HVS) perhaps has some nicer, more balancy moves but just seemed less compelling to me (perhaps because of the big half-way stance).

Central Climb (VS), to the LHS of the Wall of Horrors area, is pretty good too - nice steady climbing with a good range of moves.  Second the recommendation of Z-Climb Eliminate (E1) - a technical start and a pumpy finish (don't do what I did and save it till last.... death by lactic acid).

[Control freak]

Nick, I think you mean Demon Wall, not Demon Wall Roof. Too much bouldering boy. Were you belaying Mark S. when he had that ultrasketchout on DW?. Possibly one of the most scary things I have ever seen.

Oh yeah - duh. Just getting excited I guess thinking of the grit... Anyway - who the fuck wants to do routes in the winter? He should be trying DWR

I didnt see Mark sketch on that but I have seen him sketch on lots of other things - usually behind the wheel of a car. Very scary  :shock:

[SA Chris]

Never had the pleasure of enduring a drive with him, but if his driving is anything like his footwork, I hate to think.

[cofe]

think fiend has been bubbling crack. GW is well brown. and i love demon wall. not in a physical way. i just admire it.

[Stubbs]

Oh, forgot to mention, the cows were let into the top fields by the farmer over the holidays, so it's worth taking some wellies, and possibly a cattle prod and a raft, especially if you want to climb on the black wall area.  A tarp or a sheet of plastic is also recommended to save your mat if you want to climb any of the problems in the demon wall/crucifix area.

[andy_e]

cheers guys.
Fiend, is there any UK crag you don't know about?

[BenF]

Fiend, is there any UK crag you don't know about?

   

What about Ham Hill quarry?  You been there Fiend?

[Fiend]

What about Ham Hill quarry?  You been there Fiend?

Ummmm....

[Sypeland]

Yellow Wall if you want a pant cacking experince.
Acetabulum - For a good rounded finnish.
Demon Wall - Best route at the Cliff
Orchrist - Always backed off that beuty!