[Fiend]

My goal in any climbing training is always the same - to have some sort of effect that improves my ability to onsight trad routes.

For me what needs to improve is 90% psychological, but I think it's useful to address the other, physical 10% - not least if it can help compensate for the 90%.

I often go bouldering indoors - because it's fun, easy to organise, and hopefully can have some beneficial knock-on effects. What I want to know is how to use that bouldering training to be most beneficial for trad onsighting without it stopping being fun.

(Obviously I know: 1. Indoor route training is more applicable - I do that too. 2. Fitness/stamina circuits are more applicable - but they are boring so I wouldn't do as much.)

Anyway...

The aspects I currently focus on and consider beneficial to some degree are:

Focus on flashing problems - to get used to hanging on and working out sequences and committing to them

Only having 3 attempts on a problem - to learn to work out problems quicker.

Focus on problems with bad / slopey holds and awkward moves - To better mimic outdoor climbing.

Focus on my physical weaknesses - obvious.

Mix technical problems with physically hard ones - to make sure I do problems I have to work out on the flash, and ones that I have to fight hard and pull hard on.

Sweat like a pig in heat - to get me used to adverse conditions  :wink:


So....anything more I can do? Anything I should be focusing differently on? Any advice?

[moose]

Would down-climbing as many problems as possible help?  You have to be a lot more considered with your footing and weight distribution whilst reversing moves - can't just use momentum.  There may be endurance and lock-off pay-offs too that would be trad beneficial.

On the other hand I vaguely recall some peeps claiming that it can lead to injuries  Anyone know the details?

[andy_e]

just out of interest, what trad grade do you climb anyway? didn't i read somewhere that you were also wanting to flash i got horribly sober?

[squeek]

There's an E5 jamming roof crack at BoulderUK you could try, you'll have to be quick though it's coming down on Sunday.

[Fiend]

Ummm thanks for the offer Squeek, a bit far though  :shock:

Moose, downclimbing, interesting idea. Personally I find in straight pulling cases it's actually easier than the up move as although you don't have momentum helping you, you do have gravity. But, as you say, the weight distribution and footwork and stuff... Also, good practise for downclimbing on routes, a useful skill... I will try to do more.

Thought of a couple more last night:

Climbing as statically as possible - don't tend to lunge much on trad routes so there's more point in training static strength.

Trying problems I don't think I'll like - kinda like training weaknesses but more in the realms of training to cope with uncomfortable, offputting, or even unpleasant movement.


Any other ideas??

[a dense loner]

i think you've covered everything there fiend, time to move on

[andy_e]

There's an E5 jamming roof crack at BoulderUK you could try, you'll have to be quick though it's coming down on Sunday.

E7 6a, or V8, and they'll give you gloves to try it!

[clm]

stop on a hold and count to twenty or recite a little ditty to simulate the pauses required to place gear.

[FatWrinkly]

Hold lock offs.
Pause between moves with one arm up fot 10 secs?
Try and find rest positions