[Fiend]

If I were to use the system I used to get grades for the bouldering guide on Ache Ball I would say that two people say 7c, many others say soft 8a, conclusion, 7c+/hard 7c+.

Ha ha, very funny Ru. As we all know, you actually used a grading science flowchart which went something like this:-

LOL!

Just one small addition...

Q2. Is it reachy?
A. Yes. It is just a question of reach. Ignore all offered grades and downgrade by a full grade and dismiss it as morpho.
A. No. Go to 3.

 

[neil@canaryclimbs]

I cant beleive you are actually climbing now rather than training


Onki onk man finally

Ps. why havnt you returned any of my messages grumpy git

[a dense loner]

that post from neil was to uncle before anybody else think's they're poirot and immediately connect's "grumpy get" with me :wink:

[Dave Westlake]

Unclesomebody wrote..."As much as he'd like to put your dick in his ass, I don't think he will"


I don't suppose there would be much room in there for his dick as well, unless yours is really small?!


Unclesomebody wrote... "The Joker is miles harder than ache ball."

and totally different.  The difficulty of ache ball is cumulative (ie a few hard moves in a row), rather than one really hard move (as in the joker).
You cant really compare a one move problem with a seven move problem

a dense loner wrote..."this is not to demean the efforts of dave or anyone who has done it and thinks it's 8a. "

I didnt say i thought it was 8a, just that its harder than 7c.  I expect it will settle at 7c+.

 

[chappers]

or...
mr p is secretly the star of sodomy cream pies 3 (actual film, ive seen it) in which case, 1, 2 or any number of cocks will fit in said hole.

i have posted this only in jest, in no way do i think JP to be a batty boy.

[Soxs]

Although i bet, deep down, you want him to be. I know how you dig long haired ladetts :shock: PM him your phone number and see what happens.

[Doylo]

(have people noticed how many areas of the world seem to have stronger gravity than others? eg: Fontainebleau has far stronger gravity than Chironico, for example :wink: )

can confirm this, was there yesterday. Not all soft though, Saucope left hand (7c) for example

[chris]

yo chris are you still over there or are you back in blighty?

Me and Dobbin are heading out there on the 24th feb with Tim Clifford and others. Just hoping it doesnt warm up beforehand. What were the conditions like, and more to the point what did you get on/up?

[Doylo]

hi chris, still there, very mint every day. Cres has had my undies down so far but done a bit better at chironico, grades are a bit softer there aren t they, I can t believe it ever rains here

[chris]

ive been in swiss three times and it rained once, up in averstal.

glad your enjoyin it! i take it you've done la soucoupe left?

try sloperattacke (7a+) which is very good.

cresciano did seem a little harder at first but when you dig deep enough you'll find sandbags all over the place.

im fully pysched for our trip and to get back out there; the ticino region is the shit for bouldering and has still got loads of potential. hopefully we'll be filming the mighty clifford icing the full version of dreamtime :shock:

[dobbin]

so many people have now done la soucoupe left that its now called La Coupe.

[granticus]

The world's latest response to a topic I know but.....  Having moved to North Devon...
Between bowts of surfing addiction I repeated Ache ball in April '07..  It was the hardest thing I've done, the hardest being 7c, so would make sense to me to call it 7c+...
I am also aware that being tall/ having a long reach enables some climbers to reach the pinch, you dyno off, with their left heel still installed on the original bomber heel hook.  This makes the problem easier, as it avoids some tricky shenanigans with feet and a slap off a much poorer heel hook for said pinch.  Could this make it 7c?
It does attract the attention of a lot of local boulderer's being considered a classic problem and having a high grade attached to it. There's not much else around (watch this space by the way!) so it gets repeated a lot.
It is interesting to me that Providence Dave B's (8a) problem in Godrevy received a repeat and a similar down grade from JP.  Although I have only been on Dave's problem once it feels much harder than Ache ball and would appear to fully warrant 8a.  They do feel hard 'til you get them wired though don't they?  However, once again I am aware that, if you have a big enough span, you can avoid the super powerful crux cross through dyno thing by reaching straight into a better hold!  Again this would make the problem, perhaps (i don't know coz my span ain't that big), a full grade easier.
Anyhow it all made interesting reading and I felt I would share my thoughts.  I'm off for a surf!!  Hippy Dave don't forget to shout me next time you're down.