[mark]

Dear Auntie UKB,

Three weeks ago I fell out with my right hand ring finger. I took it for granted, flirting with a tricky problem in the biting cold without warming up properly.

The next time I climbed, it punished me, sending shooting pains around the base of the finger when I pulled open-handed. I think it might be either the A1 pulley or a ligament that I've offended. Since then I have been trying to make up by resting and giving it a daily treat of Glucosamine but it seems in no mood to forgive me.

Do you have any advice on how we can get our relationship going again? I want to be friends and take it out to play on the rocks but so far it shows no sign of forgiveness.

Yours sincerely,
Tweaked

[fatneck]

I'm not an expert, but common consensus seems to be that you need an initial rest, but that you shuold keep climbing as much as possible after this period. Just try and do stuff that doesn't hurt the injured finger. Good tape will offer some minimal but worthwhile support untill it's better.

Good luck :!:

P.S. Sorry I haven't continued in the amusing format you started in Mark....

[andy_e]

i have also had this problem with my left finger. were you pulling on a pocket? i kept climbing, but didn't climb stuff which would hurt that finger. try and make sure your finger isn't on the edge of your finger if you know what i mean, i.e make sure it's between two other fingers. take glucosamine and chondroitin as well as god liver oil and generally go easy on it.

[mark]

Thanks Fatneck.

i have also had this problem with my left finger. were you pulling on a pocket? i kept climbing, but didn't climb stuff which would hurt that finger. try and make sure your finger isn't on the edge of your finger if you know what i mean, i.e make sure it's between two other fingers. take glucosamine and chondroitin as well as god liver oil and generally go easy on it.

Yup, it was a shallow two-finger pocket that I slapped into. How long did it take before your finger was completely better?

[andy_e]

it still isn't 100%, but i'd say about two months ago is when it happened.

[Jim]

ibuprofen, tape and rest but not in that order. week off at least, tape for a month at least with light climbing building up slowly. the second you feel a tweak stop or climb summit easier that doesn't make it tweak. I taped for 6 months after tendon injury and still do occasionaly for certain things on that finger (eg mono's)

or

have finger surgically removed

the choice is yours

[andy_e]

have finger surgically removed

wouldn't that seriously reduce the strength of that finger?

[Jim]

depends if you put it in vinegar or not wouldn't it....

[dom]

yo, sounds like i've got the same problem.  Initially popped (audible popping sound) my tendon at the base of my left hand ring finger a couple years ago, rested it for a month or two til it got better.  But just a couple of weeks ago i re-injured the same finger from over-working it on some hard crimpin' projects.  I tried it again recently after 2 weeks rest but its still buggin.  How much longer should i rest it for.  And whats this glucosamine and chonondroitin stuff?  Is it expensive, can i get it at a pharmacy?   I'm already on the cod liver oil anyway, just casue i'm a bit homo.

[dom]

as well as god liver oil

shit man, that stuff sounds expensive

[mark]

yo, sounds like i've got the same problem.  Initially popped (audible popping sound) my tendon at the base of my left hand ring finger a couple years ago, rested it for a month or two til it got better.  But just a couple of weeks ago i re-injured the same finger from over-working it on some hard crimpin' projects.  I tried it again recently after 2 weeks rest but its still buggin.  How much longer should i rest it for.  And whats this glucosamine and chonondroitin stuff?  Is it expensive, can i get it at a pharmacy?   I'm already on the cod liver oil anyway, just casue i'm a bit homo.

There was no pop with mine and it only hurts when I'm open-handed. Broad pinches are the worst. Definitely getting better but I'm hesitant to climb on it yet in case I go straight back to the state it was in a couple of weeks ago.

Glucosamine was recommended to me by my physio the last time I saw him. He reckoned it was worth taking for anything tendon or ligament related. I got mine from Healthspan who do a range of Glucosamine stuff pretty cheap: http://www.healthspan.co.uk/shop/products.aspx?cat=GLUCOS&brandid=1

[Jim]

Tape it and climb on it. If it hurts - stop. go try a different type of problem.
2 weeks rest is plenty if your as psyched as me.
Just get out and move on rock people - its amazing

[mark]

Tape it and climb on it. If it hurts - stop. go try a different type of problem.
2 weeks rest is plenty if your as psyched as me.
Just get out and move on rock people - its amazing

Can't tape it as the pain's around the A1 pulley, i.e. within the hand.

I am psyched but I'm also aware that if I do further damage then an injury which might heal completely in not a lot of time could drag on and become a chronic problem. Not that I always assume the worst, of course.

Went out this morning and had a glorious hour at the Plantation. Finger wasn't hurting though I definitely had the feeling that it wasn't 100%. But looks like it'll be fine. Fuckin' A.

[bigphil]

I think I've done this to my right hand ring finger today.  I get pain when I open hand or pinch.  I got it openhanding a small slopey crimp with three fingers.   :cry:

Does taking Glucosamine and Chondroitin work?

[Huffy]

Hey Mark,

A1 or A2 pulley from sounds of it.



Don't tape it up too early as this will interfere with the healing process. going on the principles of stages of healing i give pully injuries around 6 days of icing twice a day, anti inflamm and no climbing. Jim is right that you should climb on it at this will help get tensile strength back in the collagen fibres but if you climb too soon then you rick really messing the structure up which builds XS scar tissue.  

after 6 days i get an elastic band and *v-gently* do some light pain free resistance work, progressing the resistance for a week. Ice if swelling. Hot and cold is generally left until after 14-20 days.
After that you should be ready for climbing on it again, but avoid any sort of pocket like the plague! (papers have shown these put the most strain through the base of the finger)

Of course this is just an ideal regimen, if you seeing good physio and they have plan then stick to that if it's working.

The evidence for Glucosamine with Chonditin with Vitamin C with blah blah blah remains largely subjective. They've tried al sorts of tests, even injecting the stuff directly into the knee to see the effects and not found anyhting conclusive. I still take the stuff though cos Donnie does and he's a GP!

All the best with it mate.

For anyone psyched on understanding injuries then look this up http://www.electrotherapy.org/electro/healing/tissue.htm

Knowing the principles of healing is totally the key in managing any injury effectively!

Back to the essays....yawn.

[moose]

Glucosamine has never really done it for me, regardless of dose and MSR / chondritin additions. But that's not entirely surprising as it's mainly recommended for cartilage problems and arthritis.  

Anyone have any knowledge or experience re Bromelain?  From what little I know it might be more applicable to climber's tendon woes - it reputedly promotes tissue repair and cuts down inflamation.... my shoulder hurts and I need quackery......anyone got snake-oil for sale?!

[saltbeef]

Donnie does and he's a GP!.

that's not saying too much! Gp training involves painting things that mean alot to you and group hugs, oh and advanced slipper wearing classes...
i still take it though.

[bigphil]

I've started to take Glucosamine with Chondroitin following my recent finger injury because I guess it might help and it makes me feel like I'm actually doing something to promote healing, though after reading the website Huffy posted up I think I might take some general multivitamins and eat more meat as well.  Part of the problem with supplements though is that its really quite hard to actually notice whether its doing you any good or whether your wasting your money.

[cofe]

not really read the above but a good bit of knowledge i got off my mate who's in prison is to get a big bowl of ice cold water with ice in it (i.e. that's frozen water for all you gangstas out there...) and sit with ALL fingers in it for a half hour. this then sends shit loads of blood to the fingers and especially the bad one. apparently having all fingers in sends a stronger message to the brain even if only one finger is afflicted with cod. seems to work really well. scouse will back me up. huffy will probably tell me i'm deluded and to 'rest'.

[Jim]

how can scouse back you up. He's got more injuries than Nigela and JR put together

[saltbeef]

cofe. wrong. in the initial instance first week post injury you want to ice it, this is to decrease inflammation, second or third week yeah stick your hand in some iced water, after that stick it in hot water this will increase blood flow, and thus promote healing. why on earth would you put the other hand in except for sympathy pains? probably the reason your mates in jug, for giving out false information.

[Scouse D]

The ice bucket method truly is the business. Touch wood it has sorted my fingers out better than they've been for years. The full ice immersion increases blood flow massively and induces mild hot aches, you really feel the blood pumping- it IS GOOD KNOWLEDGE. Props to Kim Thompson for the knowledge and John for passing it on and to my mum and dad and my agent.

[Huffy]

Sounds like Scouse is training his frostbite tollerance

I use contrast baths when recovering and we've been taught to use it in practice. Despite this there is no single study in the scientific literature linking contrast baths with quicker recovery from injury as far as i can tell (would be difficult to assess objectively)

huffy will probably tell me i'm deluded and to 'rest'

hehe, we still injured by anychance?

[bedrock]

I've done the same finger injury-popped my 4th finger on a pocket. Rested for 3 weeks initially with light climbing once a week (to keep sane!!) but it was always twinging so rested it for one month then introduced light climbing and about to start pushing it now. Never taped it as that can hinder the healing process. General rule for tendons is rest until it stop hurting during normal everyday tasks and when you fully flex the tendon then rest the same time AFTEr that again and only then start climbing on it gently.
I take glucosamine and MSM, felt there was no need for chondroitin as thats for cartilage but I'm not too sure if thats a good idea???!!!

[cofe]

fuck no. as of 18:47 hrs on sunday i'm back in the game. the ice knowledge is the shit.