[Bonjoy]

got to agree with Jimbo, Boggart LH is the definative soft touch E4.

Isn't it given E2-E4 in the guide, with the E4 only applying for runts. A big lad like you should be able to static the lurch i'd have thought.

[cofe]

banana wall at wharncliffe is an uttery piss E4 if you're not a midget.

damn, i am

you're no shorter than me and i've done banana path.

wings of unreason is the obvious one. and traveller in time is alright if you;re ove rthat way. 2 in a day - why not?

[andy_e]

indeed man, will have to wait until after the exams! wings looks scary, is it? hows track of the cat?

[Scouse D]

got to agree with Jimbo, Boggart LH is the definative soft touch E4.

Isn't it given E2-E4 in the guide, with the E4 only applying for runts. A big lad like you should be able to static the lurch i'd have thought.

I'm only 5ft tall.I just have a habit of standing really close to people.
And yeah I static the lurch and have also reversed it quite comfortably.I also take the E4 tick quite comfortably.

[Fiend]

Why?

Either you want to climb the level of challenge E4 signifies, or you don't. Simple as that.

If you're after a certain level of challenge but don't think you can actually do proper E4, then do some hard E3s instead.

On the other hand, if you're interested in the number and can't be bothered actually tackling the challenge it should signify....then give up climbing.

[dave]

wings isn't scary per se, its just scary psychologically. What scary is long you will stand there putting off a simple jump of a few inches. my advice is dont wind up for it, as winding up makes it look further  away and freaks you out. also don't kick your friend out as you jump - i've heard of that happening and the guy missing the jump....
track ain;t freaky like wings but is just bolder. good rest to psyche up from. both are brilliant and on the most amazing gritstone. another good route is prelude to space HVS the rigth aret of the buttress, and wild thing on the next block right is great. the E5 right of that looks dope.

[Stubbs]

indeed man, will have to wait until after the exams! wings looks scary, is it? hows track of the cat?

If you struggled on an E2 6b, may i reccommend avoiding bold E5 6a's if you want your climbing career to not involve intermissions spent in hospital....

[SA Chris]

Dave, with a twist of the hips and shoulders and balancing on one toe, I can reach the hold on Wings statically, although only just.

Guess you aren't as lanky as is made out after all. I struggled like a bastard rocking into the pocket though.

[grimer]

Luckily Dave, Jetrunner has stayed at E4. E3 is just my opinion, and I only argue 1 out of every 3 times when I disagree with anyone. It makes life two-thirds easier.

Having said that, Salmon LH is going in at E6 and Smoked Salmon (which I thought was standard E4) at E5, and Undercut Crack (which is E3 I think) at E2.

I appear to be in disagreement defecit.



And if you're looking for soft touches, andi, Right Unconquerable is easy for E4.

[dave]

Smoked Salmon (which I thought was standard E4) at E5,

quite a drop from E8 then  :shock:

[grimer]

did I say smoked salmon? oops I hope Andi hasn't read this and stormed out for a nighttime solo. I meant, of course, Parthian Shot.




...or was it Poached Salmon?

[Ru]

and wild thing on the next block right is great. the E5 right of that looks dope.

It is. I put gear in it (an RP3?) but probably better as a solo in retrospect as you have to stand on some not brilliant smears to get the thing in, by which time you could have been at the top.

[dave]

word - entropy's jaw is the name i was looking for. alas i was tricked into attempting this route on a toprope about 5 years ago, so i've lost the ground-up on that one should i ever go back - gutted. the only redeeming factor is i couldn't get started on it, so have gained no advantage.......toproping blows.

Paz on the other hand pissed it on toprope. sucks to be you paz.

[Bonjoy]

I thought Undercut Crack was worth E3 also.
 I remember Uptowngirl slipping off Entropy's Jaw, due to overreaching on the smears trying to place the RP, totally skinning all his knuckles and broke a tree root!

[hongkongstuey]

It is. I put gear in it (an RP3?) but probably better as a solo in retrospect as you have to stand on some not brilliant smears to get the thing in, by which time you could have been at the top.

I found that a 2 HB Brass Offset thingy went in very nicely - certainly felt more comfortable for having placed the gear but came in for a certain amount of piss taking for not just soloing it...

Nature Trail on the next slab along is also a very good route

[andy_e]

perhaps fiend is right. i should get more E1s, 2s, and 3s done first (not forgetting E0s )

[RopeBoy]

Some good suggestions, but no mention of Calvary?

My first E4 on sight, low tricky crux near a bomber friend and then some steady climbing to the top.

Chalkstorm and Downhill Racer if you like slabs and don't mind solo-ing.

J

[andy_e]

yeah chalkstorm looks good. as does the flying arete next to it (forget name, doh!)

[dave]

Some good suggestions, but no mention of Calvary?

My first E4 on sight, low tricky crux near a bomber friend and then some steady climbing to the top.

i belayed a mate on this one september evening this year - he was super psyched as was just about to go to the antarctic fo 18 months. the middle section climbing on little snappy-looking flakes looked the worse bit and the bit he had most problems with. I can't say i'd be rushing to do it as a first E4.

[Control freak]

Chalkstorm is def ok at E4 so long as your happy on your feet. Commander Energy is the arete to the right and is amazing. One of the best E2s Ive done.

Back to the subject tho - Life in a Radio Active Dustbin is a piece of piss at E4  and substantially easier if your over about 6 foot - if your not its a hard lock or a jump from the floor

[Jim]

word, even I've done that  :

[Paz]

word - entropy's jaw .... alas i was tricked into attempting this route on a toprope

Paz on the other hand pissed it on toprope.

Despite my `mad foot on, slap' at the top, I'd have gone for it then if we were a 3 that day instead of a 4 ;-).  Or at least if the 4th person didn't waste loads of everyones time failing to even get as far as you did, or didn't have to be back home in time for a bath or something.  I need beta or to top rope it again, as I can't remember which foot you start with on the line of smears so you don't get wrong footed for the crux.  I agree with what someone else told me - preplaced gear was invented for this route.  If I can't place gear mid climb then I'll have a rethink but there's no point me owning a HB2 if I'm never going to use it, especially when it's crucial.  Saying that, a surprising number of people fall off and are OK.  After you've slid down the slab it's only like falling from the lip.  

We were both tricked because the man was off to Aberdeen seemingly forever and wanted to get on a `hard' git route.  He came back for christmas.  Last year I let him take me off to the Count's Buttress Slabs when I wanted to do Archangel and was going well (that's a once in tne years occurence for me) because he was leaving the country and again wanted his `last' taste of gritstone.  He was back, within a month!

If you want soft E4s you want to come to the west country where you'll learn how easy `it's E4 in the guidebook' can be.  Possibly when it's E1/2 in the history section when it wasn't even cleaned.

[Bonjoy]

I my memory isn't playing tricks on me I think you can place the gear on EJ by leaning over the top (or maybe it was by hanging off the top). In my book this is still in keeping with the ground up ethic. What do others think about this? Obviously putting a quickdraw on would be a step too far.

[dave]

placing it from the top would be a bit gay. its just as ground-up as abbing in to place it, the fact you don't have to use an ab rope is irrelevent. if its that close to the top is it really worth having?

i forget the exact geometrics of the route but could you not loop 2 nutes back-toback and place it from a move or so lower?

[Bonjoy]

EJ only has one runner (the one you could place from the top)and it is useful. I'd say looping nuts together is more dubious(gay) than placing from the top or the side (without use of rope), it's little better than using a clipstick.