[cofe]

well, is it or wot?

[dave]

I can't remember when your injury dates back to, but my advice is find out how long a rest scouse allows for a finger injury, then times it by six.......teen.


So based on that, if you did your finger longer than 32 days ago, then i say i must be alright.

[saltbeef]

how do i know? we need details( I'm referring to me as we)

[cofe]

how do i know? we need details( I'm referring to me as we)

come on. i'm not going to do the work for you :roll:

[webbo]

no.you're still injured i'd take a couple more years rest.

[clm]

better than mine? no way

better than lee's clicky obsessive compulsive little finger?  definately

[Jim]

least its not as bad as leroy's

[Johnny Brown]

word I've got a bad finger too, but sometimes its just great to get out and move over rock again  :wink: you don't see ninetoez not climbing cos his toe isn't better, it takes more than a broken digit to stop some folk. A broken ankle would do it, mind, think yerself lucky. :roll:

[Jim]

word I've got a bad finger too

Yeah right, thats what you keep telling everyone

[Huffy]

GEt the elastic band out of your trousers and onto that finger young man:

Light resistance work with the band, easy gentle stretches, b3's/hvs's in bulk, ice three times a day - pref after activites, ibuprofen, gallons of water, glucosamine (with Orange juice), sleep...

c'mon man, it's a simple tried and tested formula!

[dobbin]

The UK climbing community can no longer cope without its wild haired ambassador. Especially given the state of the field at the moment - we need you. Why not tape an ice axe onto your forearm, then you can join the party.

[cofe]

think the answer was 'no' after testing it the other night. i unfortuantly got kid-in-a-sweet-shop syndrome and tried something i shouldn';t have. although it only hurts a bit. to make matters worse i'm having a haircut tonight.

will keep on huffy - i just don't have your discipline miagi.

[dave]

i unfortuantly got kid-in-a-sweet-shop syndrome and tried something i shouldn';t have.

let me guess, no-foot pressups?

[a dense loner]

matters worse i'm having a haircut tonight

why god why?

samson springs to mind

[Bonjoy]

Don't do it man. Don't damage the aerials!

[Johnny Brown]

Word. I'm currently convinced you need to give fingers a reason to get better - ie show them they are weak and need to get stronger. Sitting at home watching the boosh dvds whilst waiting and hoping for an improvement ain't gonna do it.

Like Huffy says, go bouldering. I don't agree with the V3/HVS rule, just get on whatever you can without straining the injury. If it starts to hurt, let go and try something else. When craig david was in font he popped a tendon on monday, did a mauve circuit on tuesday, rested it with ice on wednesday, did a 7b on thursday and flashed a 7a+ on friday. be like craig.

[cofe]

When craig david was in font he popped a tendon on monday, did a mauve circuit on tuesday, rested it with ice on wednesday, did a 7b on thursday and flashed a 7a+ on friday. be like craig.

was he on the nest saturday, and resting on sunday cos he was goosed?

will keep climbing and take care/supplements. i don't work all week to rest at the weekend. unless its pissing it down.

i'm probably going to have a 'Keith' at the barbers...

[dave]

get an american flat-top with Nike Air shaving into the back. You know it makes sense.

[Scouse D]

keep pulling down man- just don't bone anything. I ain't boned a hold for over a year and I'm still better than you. If you stop bonin you'll still be better than Dave, which is better than nothing.
I, like you, find it almost impossible to rest, so why fight it? Also, I think I'm addicted to Ibuprofen

[Ru]

Agree with JB. I think the trick with finger injuries is to climb through them, but just be careful. Try climb below the pain threshold. Use hand squashy things to keep the blood going. I don't avoid any grip type whilst doing this to try and strengthen accross the range of positions, but be sensible. If it hurts, don't do it.

Without knowing much about the SCIENCE, I get the feeling that stimulating the broken bit to repair its self works much better than ignoring it. That's what they advise for ruptured ankles these days - start walking on it asap or it won't get back to strength.

[Bonjoy]

i'm probably going to have a 'Keith' at the barbers...

 Are you man enough for a beard like that?



 I've always been a beleiver in careful climbing through finger injuries. If it hurts, stop pulling. Just don't get carried away.

[a dense loner]

overheard at the crag the other day "i'm going to have to start campussing. i can't let all this talent go to waste only to fuck it up cos i've got weak tendons" :wink:

[Johnny Brown]

yeah they had 9toez on his feet the day after they put that frame on his ankle. he wasn't keen, nearly fainted just lowering the foot to the floor, took one step and said he could feel the bones moving, blood started pissing out of all the holes where the frame went in  :shock: The next day he ahd to do two steps, etc.

ps for those cocktalk types, we visited him 4 hours later and the blood was still all over the floor. Hospitals today :throw hands in air: :shake head:

[SA Chris]

Apparently massaging the paiful bit is good, helps break down the scar tissue that you wish you saw.

[dave]

I ain't boned a hold for over a year and I'm still better than you. If you stop bonin you'll still be better than Dave, which is better than nothing.

thats a spirit boys, mind over matter.

I've also heard great things about placebos.