[Greencar]

The Turningstone project is no more.  After far too many days effort, Keenus finaly climbed his roof project at about 10pm on friday night.









Effort

[dave]

word, whereabouts at turdingstone is this? and how hard? tell me its not hidden i the rhodedendrons.

[Fiend]

Isn't everything hidden in the rhodies there?

[Johnny Brown]

Awesome. Watched him trying it in the spring, and it looks mighty hard and better than most grit roofs.

C'mon, drop some numbers on us  :wink:

[Paz]

10 PM, what times it get dark up there?  Oh hang on that explains the head torch.  Photos aren't bad considering that.  Effort

P.S.  Isn't the song off the guiness advert Rhythm of Life?

[ned]

That looks good :shock:

Where abouts is Turningstone?

[Fiend]

Amber Valley. Head eastwards from Matlock as the crow flies until you encounter a mighty mass of inpenetrable rhodedendrons and then fall off the edge of a cliff. That will be turning stone edge  :wink:

[Jim]

yes it is in the rhodies. effort to keenus, this is fuckin hard.

[Greencar]

huit a plus in old money.

[Falling Down]

I am liking the night time 1st ascent - keenus indeed

[Bonjoy]

Brilliant work Keenus! Quality line!
 It is in a relatively open section of the crag, at the bottom of the buttress (with Plumbline and Umbongo on)on the right (if facing the crag) of the central decent gully.
 There is also a high quality dyno project on a buttress a little beyond the last described buttress in the guide. Well hidden, but fairly open when you get to it (or was last time I was there). Project hunters might also want to check out the standing/sitting start (normal prob has jump start) to Hat's for Clowns, across the valley at eatswood.

[SA Chris]

Hats for Clowns , surely.

Just beating dave to the mark there, I know how he likes apostrophes.

[Bonjoy]

The shame  

[dave]

i just assumed it was a typo on the second word, and that he was refering to four clowns, belonging to some guy named Hat.

[(woz)]

Project hunters might also want to check out the standing/sitting start (normal prob has jump start) to Hat's for Clowns, across the valley at eatswood.

is eatswood still banned like it says in the guide? i quite fancy a trip there after seeing the pics in the guide.

[dom]

Whats it called?  Is River Of Life the name?

[Bonjoy]

It's as banned as it always has been and the owners position is sufficiently entrenched that getting caught at the crag is not going to make things any worse IMO. In reality you will not get rumbled if you go there to boulder as long as you don't shout and scream. All the bouldering is well out of eyeshot hidden by trees from the farm (the owners farm is the one beyond the crag, not the one near where you leave the road on the approach), which must be a quarter of a mile away anyway. People only get caught if making excessive noise or belaying in load clothing at the top of the crag.
 Back on topic, I sincerely hope James's new problem gets the credit and coverage it deserves in the mags. Classic 8a+s on peak grit are a rare thing indeed! A piece for Friction would be good.

[Buoux 8C]

Looks a great problem, well done James, i also hope this is reported in the mags.
can someone shed some light on finding turning stone edge, i have hte chatsworth guide but he directions are crap. from the M1 junciton 28 dont you head towards cractcliffe and then take a right turn at a big gardening shop or something like that? directions would be helpfull anyone.

[Ru]

Wholeheartedly agree. I'm on the case. Classic 8a+s on peak grit are few and far between, esp ones that aren't one conditions dependant move long. This one looks totally classic and I can't wait to try it. I like the night time on-the-job shots too. That's two new classic grit probs in as many weeks.

In relation to another thread hereabouts, I do try in my reports to give weight to important/interesting/newsworthy stuff in proportion to it's quality and not in proportion to who does it, or even how many ascents a route has had. If anyone feels aggrieved with anything I've written, PM me.

[Fiend]

Frankenjura9a:

This should help (refer to the BMC guide diagram too).

multimap link

Basically, you are aiming for that little Y junction just south of the word "road" in Holestone Gt Road. Get on either the A632 and turn off onto H Gt Rd (the junction is near the top of a large, long hill leading down towards Ashover), or get on the A615 and turn back on yourself onto the B6014 and turn off that onto H Gt Rd.

When you reach that Y junction, either pack up there, or continue down the track to a muddy pull in where the track ends (warning: lots of things to scratch your car....which could also end up an in-situ car if it's really muddy down the bottom).

From the parking you should be able to see Cocking Tor, head up the hill to the left of that, then walk along the top and navigate hopelessly through the rhodies to Turningstone Edge down on your right.

[Doylo]

nice1 darse

[Huffy]

Second that,

Keen to see what it's like...

[Pantontino]

If it's any consolation Bonjoy I've already exchanged emails with James.
Okay, so it'll be weeks later than what you read on here, but I always try and give coverage where it is deserved, and not just to whoever bombards me with material.

[andy_e]

Cocking Tor

         

</immaturity>

anything else good there? the routes look trash (says i from lancashire)

[dave]

turdingstone edge is roughly where the words "Overton Hall" are on this map.

I thought turdingstone was shit for routes cos i've only been there twice - once was an epic outing with paz in waist deep snow we couldn't even find the crag. secondly we found the crag but it was massivley overgrown. this problem looks much better than owt on the crag though.

The amusingly named cocking tor i thought was excellent however - only about 4 routes but all good looking, though i had to be rescued from the top of an E2. Its a good view anall - when we were there i think some sikh guy turned up at the top of the crag to medidate or some shit - word.