[r-man]

Just wundrin

Say you are training individual moves, trying to become stronger/more powerful. You have two options

1. Use the smallest holds you can hold onto, and make the distance between the holds gradually bigger.

2. Use large holds with a huge distance between them, and gradually make the holds smaller.

Are you ultimately going to achieve the same thing with both approaches, or will they both have different effects?

...I suppose using a weightbelt is roughly equivalent to the first option, and changing the angle of the wall is roughly equivalent to option 2? Or is a weightbelt like doing a bit of both?

[Paul B]

ive started to wonder about the same thing after just starting to campus.

I was thinking that using bigger rungs with huge distances between has to be more beneficial for power than smaller rungs with smaller distance?

Surely the smaller holds/rungs will be training contact strength as well as power where as bigger holds/rungs will just train power?

[chris]

just train all the both variations on the exercises stated and you will see a bigger improvement. Small holds + small distances will train your fingers, bigger holds + bigger spacings will reduce the emphasis on your fingers but put increased pressure on your arms.

[Falling Down]

I'm no expert on training but if there is a specific move you can't do then one thing that works for me (an old tip from Moffat back in the day BTW) is to get into the completed position and then try and reverse it a few times - you'll inevitably fail repeatedly but it does seem to work.. I don't know whether holding the completed position somehow 'imprints' the movement and then the move becomes more economic or you are recruiting more neuromuscularthingummystuff..