[remus]

It was a project of Ron Kauk's for a while, so in many ways it really is the embodiment of an 80s style route taken to the extreme.

[blaciqui]

Babsi is a beast, is a little bit sad that she doesn't get the attention she deserves. I have the feeling that "famous" female climbers achivements are not close to Babsi's and others like Angela Eiter. Really strong climbers that push the boundaries.


On a side note: If you ask me about what rock climbing will look like in the 22nd century I'd say that everybody will dress like the guy that appears at the end of video. WTF is that!

[SA Chris]

Guessing it's a Halloween thing.

What do you think the masking tape is covering at the top?

[teestub]

Babsi is a beast, is a little bit sad that she doesn't get the attention she deserves. I have the feeling that "famous" female climbers achivements are not close to Babsi's and others like Angela Eiter. Really strong climbers that push the boundaries.

Interesting this is your view, from my climbing media bubble, Babsi is one of the most famous and well publicised female climbers. She seems to get a decent stream of YouTube stuff every year and there was the Trango film last year. She’d definitely be first to mind if I was asked about best female trad climbers.

[duncan]

What do you think the masking tape is covering at the top?

Probably a sharp edge, it lies exactly where the rope hangs when top-roping or lowering. They can be like granite knives in Yosemite and covering them with duct tape is a quite common strategy.

Babsi is a beast, is a little bit sad that she doesn't get the attention she deserves. I have the feeling that "famous" female climbers achivements are not close to Babsi's and others like Angela Eiter. Really strong climbers that push the boundaries.

Also interested. I'm biased towards trad. climbing in general and El Cap. in particular which makes Barbara Zangerl currently one of the 2 or 3 very best female trad. climbers in the world from my perspective. I'm aware I have minority tastes and perhaps strong women boulderers and sport climbers get more attention? (although Babsi is not exactly shabby at either)

Or do you mean social media influence versus actual climbing achievement? 

[jwi]

Babsi is a beast, is a little bit sad that she doesn't get the attention she deserves.

If she would start to confront climbers she suspect having been not 100% truthful in their reports in public rather than in private, and with the same frankness, she would get tons of clicks. Tons.

[Will Hunt]

More, please.

 

[Moo]

Babsi is a beast, is a little bit sad that she doesn't get the attention she deserves.

If she would start to confront climbers she suspect having been not 100% truthful in their reports in public rather than in private, and with the same frankness, she would get tons of clicks. Tons.

Spit it out then you cretin !!!

[andy popp]

That's such cool footage - fighting every inch.

[Fiend]

Babsi is a beast, is a little bit sad that she doesn't get the attention she deserves.

If she would start to use more knotted ropes next to things like The Meltdown, she would get tons of clicks. Tons.

[SA Chris]

Probably a sharp edge, it lies exactly where the rope hangs when top-roping or lowering. They can be like granite knives in Yosemite and covering them with duct tape is a quite common strategy.

Good knowledge, makes sense, cheers. I was wondering if it was a hold she covered up to maintain the hard sequence she had come up with

[remus]

Babsi is a beast, is a little bit sad that she doesn't get the attention she deserves.

If she would start to confront climbers she suspect having been not 100% truthful in their reports in public rather than in private, and with the same frankness, she would get tons of clicks. Tons.

Spit it out then you cretin !!!

Me three, don't leave us hanging here jwi.

[jwi]

More, please.

 

Spit it out then you cretin !!!

Me three, don't leave us hanging here jwi.

proves my point: controversies are more interesting than small holds that are far apart!

Anyway, the "ascent" of that particular Nordwand route is widely in disrepute. As is the FFFA party.

[Fiend]

You just did it AGAIN, you scrote 

[Fiend]

If you'd asked me in 1981 what rock climbing would look like in the 21st century I'd have described something like this. Funny how it is now almost completely atypical of what constitutes modern hard climbing.

Good quote. The first half looks horrendous, the F8c equivalent of Curbar E2 

Cool video but although it's XTRA- R A W, they still could have sped through the shakeouts.

[Kingy]

Anyway, the "ascent" of that particular Nordwand route is widely in disrepute. As is the FFFA party.

Dare I ask for details of these allegations? Is this the Eiger Nordwand?

[remus]

https://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/comments/43z44p/criticism_on_sasha_digiulians_and_dave_mcleods/

[blaciqui]

It's interesting that the other day while researching Loic Zehani's "ascent" of Artaburu, I found several comments mentioning this "ascent" of Norwand, among other controversies. This happened a long time ago and I didn't know about it but I've heard about it twice in the last 10 days...

It gave the impression that among professional climbers (some of the comments I read came from professional climbers) there are still some open wounds. I guess for them it's the same as what we see from the outside when you open your eyes: it's pretty easy to spot the "clickbait" climber, but you have to add that they see how the others get the fame and the money. (what surprises me is that more people don't realise this).

I have to say that my original message wasn't about this controversy, she is well known to me and maybe I'm not right in saying that Babsi doesn't get the attention she deserves, as I don't have instagram or follow any social media, but, for example, on Youtube for every video I link to of Babsi there are 10 videos of female climbers who sell that they play to the limit when in fact they don't.  If one of those female climbers (I refuse to name names) were to achieve a feat like Angela in Madame Ching I don't want to imagine what would happen.

I assume that is a thing that happens in every part of the society. So many people complaint that there no good models out there and the real issue is that they are following stupid people. Or maybe the stupid is me... Who cares?

[Kingy]

Regarding the Nordwand link above, this is all a long time ago. I read all about this at the time, 8 years ago plus the other teams who were climbing on the Eiger that season.

I don't see anything there that particularly bothers me. Sure, the style wasn't the best but don't climbers used fixed ropes and ab in from above all the time on El Cap? Patiencia was not actually claimed as an ascent, they did the easier Magic Mushroom instead. Maybe there were a bit liberal in their interpretation of the weather and conditions re Patiencia but they didn't say they climbed that route so no tick by their own admission.

Zooming out, Sasha and Carlo are both kickass climbers with impressive CV's over a long period of time. Maybe they didn't abide by the pure Eiger ethics and hammed it up a bit to TV shows but 8 years on, Sasha is now leading teams to multi-pitch mountain objectives e.g. most recently to climb Rayu 8c https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/sasha-digiulian-matilda-soderlund-brette-harrington-repeat-rayu-8c-picos-de-europa-multipitch.html

Perhaps the crux pitch of Rayu is 8b+ rather than 8c as per later ascentionists' comments but still impressive stuff nonetheless.

[BD]

I liked this one a lot of Simon Lorenzi on Alphane:

[Kingy]

Thanks for this, its actually already been posted in the Quality Bouldering Video's thread. Silly thread title - not even sure why chuffing means routes but that's what this thread is usually for!

[spidermonkey09]

Thanks for this, its actually already been posted in the Quality Bouldering Video's thread. Silly thread title - not even sure why chuffing means routes but that's what this thread is usually for!

Yeah, whats the origin story of chuffing as a term?

[joel182]

Thanks for this, its actually already been posted in the Quality Bouldering Video's thread. Silly thread title - not even sure why chuffing means routes but that's what this thread is usually for!

Yeah, whats the origin story of chuffing as a term?

I always figured it was onomatopoeia for the noises you make when you're on a route. I guess I'm about to find out I've been embarrassingly mistaken for a long time.

[BD]

Thanks for this, its actually already been posted in the Quality Bouldering Video's thread. Silly thread title - not even sure why chuffing means routes but that's what this thread is usually for!

My bad. I'm mainly a route climber so not used to look at the bouldering videos thread. Admittedly a bit silly to then visit a forum called ukbouldering. This one just triggered my interest being Belgian as well.

[Teaboy]

I really enjoyed this but it’s probably not for everyone. Stefano Ghisolfi’s first attempts at Sleeping Lion.
https://youtu.be/yX5hkFSM5JU?si=ezedmX3-oqEntV3k

On a related note, what does Chris Sharma do for training? I don’t recall ever seeing anything about that which in this day and age is pretty remarkable