[Duma]

Putting this here as well as the SigRep thread, not because its Janja, not because of the grade, but just because it's so good to see some proper onsighting. Think we can all relate to her struggle with the sun in her eyes!

[Duma]

also, no kneepads, not many hard routes done like that these days I guess?

[gardinrm]

Maybe this has already been shared, but I absolutely loved this Reel Rock episode about climbers
 from Memphis going ice climbing: https://www.over-caffeinated sugary drink company.com/gb-en/episodes/reel-rock-s7-e9

[joel182]

uncut send footage of Alex Megos on King Capella

[DAVETHOMAS90]

Christmas pudding.

http://escalade9.wifeo.com/hugh.php



Well worth a second helping of, if it's up already.
Who wouldn't want to gorge themselves on Akira, with it being described as "Super resistant.. 30 moves.. one rest.. no harder than 7A boulder..".

Anyone want to go? 

[Bradders]

Doesn't really compute that, does it? Not sure I've ever done a 360 spin on a mono on any 7A boulders!

[Fiend]

Yeah looks like """7A""" graded by an >> 8B boulderer, or using moonboard grading 

[guypercival]

Fabulous looking wall in a stunning setting. I like it how he makes it sound really romantic with his girlfriend when he wanted her to go up there and hold his ropes whilst dogging the project.

[cheque]

I enjoy the videos on this JimBo Films channel, just “show, don’t tell”, documentary-style footage of routes in Arizona that you’ve never heard of with titles that are just the name and grade. Lovely stuff.

[Stu Littlefair]

Those are nice vids, but I couldn’t get through the first one because I just wanted to buy that lass some knee pads.

[grimer]

I liked this. Sorry never learned to embed

[Fultonius]

The end was a bit bizarre haha!

Just found out I have the same birthday (separated by 18 years) as Antoine LM!

[Duma]

Lovely thanks Niall

[Duncan campbell]

Fuck me that route looks incredable! I thought the end was quite funny.

[remus]

The BMC have put the film about Emma Twyford's ascent of Big Bang up on youtube. Nice flick if you haven't seen it before.

[Teaboy]

Has Steve Mc ever got on a route and not thought « I’ll never be able to do this! »

[Duncan campbell]

The BMC have put the film about Emma Twyford's ascent of Big Bang up on youtube. Nice flick if you haven't seen it before.

Nice to see some footage of Emma doing Big Bang but what the fuck is Gresh doing speaking on it!? He’s never climbed 9a, not put any time into the route. Steve is the most appropriate one and even he’s massively inappropriate. Why not interview Caff, Neil Carson, some of Emma’s female contemporaries like Mina or hazel or maddy? Seemed weird to me.

[andy moles]

Because, Duncan, you need some sponsored male heavyweights to validate the achievement, otherwise how would we understand its significance?

I've not been too impressed with either of the two films I've seen by DP (the other being Olympiad). Climber wants to climb hard thing. Talks about how hard it is. Other climbers confirm how hard it is. Climber climbs hard thing. Uplifting music. Yawn.

[Wil]

Why not interview Caff, Neil Carson, some of Emma’s female contemporaries like Mina or hazel or maddy? Seemed weird to me.

The choice of interviewees is a slightly painful flaw, as is ignoring the history of the route. It has a strange element of The Men judging her, even if they are being complimentary. The weirdest thing for me was that it didn't make clear that none of these superhero men have actually climbed the route!

[cheque]

Climber wants to climb hard thing. Talks about how hard it is. Other climbers confirm how hard it is. Climber climbs hard thing. Uplifting music. Yawn.

  The flaw with the “sponsored climber on hard project” film is that there’s absolutely zero jeopardy as the audience all know that they got up it.

If it’s a big wall and/ or in a far-flung location then there’s the interest of learning about the route and it’s surroundings but when it’s a single pitch on a familiar roadside crag there has to be a pretty sensational back- or side-story.

[SA Chris]

Why not interview Caff, Neil Carson, some of Emma’s female contemporaries like Mina or hazel or maddy?

The lack of NC's inclusion was noted when it came out, and led to Shark tracking him down and doing a great interview with him..

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,30594.msg607002.html#msg607002

[T_B]

Why not interview Caff, Neil Carson, some of Emma’s female contemporaries like Mina or hazel or maddy? Seemed weird to me.

The choice of interviewees is a slightly painful flaw, as is ignoring the history of the route. It has a strange element of The Men judging her, even if they are being complimentary. The weirdest thing for me was that it didn't make clear that none of these superhero men have actually climbed the route!

I didn’t really feel that after the opening few minutes where it unfortunately does come across as a touch ‘Mansplainy’. After that I thought both Ste and Neil’s insight really added to it. Jerry less so. Agreed it would’ve been good to have someone like Lucy Creamer involved, given she was probably the pre-eminent female all rounder of the previous generation.

I actually really liked the film from the music and some of the cinematography, to the way we moved from place to place. The footage of Big Issue was brilliant. The whole part about going off to the Dolomites, then returning with renewed psyche and confidence was really interesting given ultimately she was trying to succeed on a totally different type of climb.

[DAVETHOMAS90]

That's a really beautiful film, and I got really emotional watching it.
 
Loved Steve's insight at 20'+ totally capturing the joy of those incremental improvements, although that may not be quite where Emma is at the moment.
I thought it captured the ebb and flow, the getting closer, further away and back again really well.

Totally agree with the Gresh's comments about route setting. I used to think that about Steve. Hodding bricks all day would be easier!
Agree with a lot of the comments about possible other input, but what there was didn't detract from Emma's own journey.

Jerry has a nice watch 

[Teaboy]

Just watched it, loved it didn't really expect to. Dave and Tom's previous comments sum it up for me.

[petejh]

Nice to see some footage of the local crag I thought the film was a nice story about Emma's journey over the course of a couple of years of trying the Big Bang, rather than a film about the Big Bang itself - which would be a very different film. A film about the story of hard sport in the UK and the characters involved in the FA's would be a great project for someone and would get lots of praise from dedicated geeks - Statement, Mecca, Evo, Hubble, Big Bang, Mutation, Rainman, Brandenburg Gate, (VNB?) etc. etc. I'd love to see that story done well on film. But it probably wouldn't gain the attention of the average everyday climbing flick 'consumer' who were probably more the target audience for this. One for Doylo perhaps..