Quote from: SA Chris on August 26, 2020, 02:32:15 pmGreat little film, didn't give much reason why he didn't give the boulder problem option a bit more work?I guess as he’s a proper trad daddy he may not have ever bouldered 7b+ and therefore wouldn’t have much of a shot at the boulder problem. Also seem to remember reading (when Haze did it maybe?) that it’s a lot harder if you’re short and he looks really small.
Great little film, didn't give much reason why he didn't give the boulder problem option a bit more work?
I would have thought that he must think that if he’d been allowed the ethics of today I.e. rapping down to practice the moves and placing bolts. He and Max could have free climbed El Cap in the late 1970s.
What became of Max Jones (I could google). Thought it was strange that there was no real mention of him.
I’m always stunned by how in the 60s, 70s and early 80s (This is from 84 apparently) there were documentaries on normal TV with immersive 20-minute sections of uninterrupted trad climbing footage, with high quality natural sound, seemingly no reconstructed close-up shots or even music over the top. Today it’s incredibly rare to find that in specialist online climbing films, let alone on BBC2!
Follows a very well-worn Yosemite film groove (seems mad to release a film in 2020 and describe the distinction between the Boulder Problem and Teflon Corner pitches on Freerider without even mentioning Free Solo) but I really enjoyed it.
Quote from: cheque on August 25, 2020, 06:59:29 pmFollows a very well-worn Yosemite film groove (seems mad to release a film in 2020 and describe the distinction between the Boulder Problem and Teflon Corner pitches on Freerider without even mentioning Free Solo) but I really enjoyed it.I’ve been waiting to sit down and watch this after all the comments on here and now it’s bloody password protected!
Pete Whillance E5 FA. I’d seen a photo from this in the Gable and Pillar guide but didn’t realise it was from a film. Amazing how calm Whillance is on runouts with no helmet and a bloody Swami belt! I’m always stunned by how in the 60s, 70s and early 80s (This is from 84 apparently) there were documentaries on normal TV with immersive 20-minute sections of uninterrupted trad climbing footage, with high quality natural sound, seemingly no reconstructed close-up shots or even music over the top. Today it’s incredibly rare to find that in specialist online climbing films, let alone on BBC2!
he looks strong and fit. I’d like to know more about his process and how he worked up to the grade. Those biceps!
it has twenty-seven kneebars, seventeen minutes of allez/venga and Citro on a ladder, holding up a fan.