[duncan]

Would you say that someone who'd be reasonably comfortable on mandatory 6b/c-slabs and 5.11-cracks could do the nose with one set of friends, one set of nuts and clipping fixed junk for the rest?

They'd probably be OK with that kind of rack, though the better test might be how happy are they leaving 10m between pieces on 5.9+ cracks rather than how comfortable they are on 5.11. Perhaps singles down to Red and doubles of the small sizes? 

This team should be treating the route as a long free-climb, capable of freeing all bar ~100m, in a day of course. Willingness to run it out and capacity to free-climb can deteriorate after 15 hours though, that second Red might be reassuring on the final pitches even though the grades suggest they should be cruising.

[slackline]

Would you say that someone who'd be reasonably comfortable on mandatory 6b/c-slabs and 5.11-cracks could do the nose with one set of friends, one set of nuts and clipping fixed junk for the rest?

They'd probably be OK with that kind of rack, though the better test might be how happy are they leaving 10m between pieces on 5.9+ cracks rather than how comfortable they are on 5.11. Perhaps singles down to Red and doubles of the small sizes? 

This team should be treating the route as a long free-climb, capable of freeing all bar ~100m, in a day of course. Willingness to run it out and capacity to free-climb can deteriorate after 15 hours though, that second Red might be reassuring on the final pitches even though the grades suggest they should be cruising.

Rock & Ice Danger Zones: The Nose - Accidents On El Cap's Most Popular Route

[duncan]

Sasha DiGiulian & Carlo Traversi climbing Magic Mushroom on the N.Face of the Eiger.

Stunning photography, commentary cheesier than a ripe Gruyère. Bafflingly no mention that it was the driest and warmest summer in 150 years or that they regularly nipped back down to Grindenwald via the train for afternoon tea and cakes!

[cheque]

[Wood FT]

Thanks Cheque, it's not quality filming but there's a quality battle at around 14.00 with girly screaming for those time starved folk. He was trying so hard 

[T_B]

girly screaming for those time starved folk.

It's no wonder there are no women on UKB 

[Wood FT]

Is that sexist?

[tomtom]

I'm never quite sure what to make of DWS... part of me is totally inspired by just soloing up hard limestone on fantastic looking holds - no ropes, no faff - just moving up the rock.

The other part of me would be shit scared :D

I also have 60 seconds of stamina.

I would get wet alot...

[Wood FT]

I think you'd suprise yourself, it's the most fun you can have with your pants on. Gritlad off here has got the stamina of an asthmatic pug but he had a great time. Research trip next September?

Edit: I think Shark wrote a blog about this you'd be interested in

[Fiend]

Don't listen to Guy, DWS is absolutely terrifying stuff. I've had a couple of occasions of being on top trad form (so enough stamina, ability to commit above big falls, and decent rock reading), tried DWS and shat myself inside out 

[r-man]

I hate scary trad, but had loads of fun with DWS in Lulworth and Berry Head. I found the approaches hideous though - not at all happy with even super easy soloing above death landings. (The step down in the path at Berry Head is awful.) love to have a go sometime at doing it from a boat, bet that would be ace.

[submaximal gains]

Alex megos on modified in the Frankenjura.

He seems to be trying fairly hard from 3:30 to the top.

[ian dunn]

Nice Saint Antonin video here:

Some great crags around this area just North of Toulouse.

[Gus]

Don't listen to Guy, DWS is absolutely terrifying stuff. I've had a couple of occasions of being on top trad form (so enough stamina, ability to commit above big falls, and decent rock reading), tried DWS and shat myself inside out 

Shambles.

[Fiend]

Finally....!



For Petejh etc etc.

[mrjonathanr]

Just been watching that. I know it's greasy but it looks like he has to pull a bit, which is not an encouraging thought.

[Tommy]

Caff habla en español! That's what I'm most psyched about.

[Johnny Brown]

That's great! Caff can (almost) always find something to bone down, it doesn't mean you have to.

[Fiend]

...but over there you do. Coin edge crystals and micro-nipples. Some good expressions in that footage

[andy_e]

Caff habla en español!

 

[Fiend]

Ooops. Apparently there are two videos floating around of Caff crushing Pedriza slabs. This is the other one:

[andy popp]

Really enjoyed that second one, great stuff!

[Fiend]

Yeah! 4:30 to 6:10 is what it's all about....

[cha1n]

Caff habla en español! That's what I'm most psyched about.

Which crimp is he referring to though, the 12th?!

[andy_e]

Just watched this. You boys are dancefloor killers. Great film.

EDIT: Also needs a NSFW warning...