[MJC]

Good that Ondra video. Nice to see that despite it being at the cutting edge he's still doing it in a pair of rockshoes which first came on the market what 10 years+ ago now? Genius.

They are amazing shoes, that just happen to fit me incredibly well. It's like they were made for my feet. It feels like anything can be climbed in them (regarding foothold size).

[lagerstarfish]

back to more serious breakthroughs in the world of chuffing

[slackline]

Portugals first 9a (trailer)...

[Obi-Wan is lost...]

Where do winter chuffing vids go?
http://www.guardian.co.uk/sport/video/2013/mar/11/snowdon-climber-falling-ice-video

[sidewinder]

I can't help but noticing that Tom seems to be wearing a non-standard tennie for London wall, note the orange clearly visible on the screengrab, perhaps undermining the advertorial nature of the piece, unless just a cosmetic difference to stop him selling them to fund his crack habit?[edit] it seems in fact just a new colour 

[SA Chris]

Where do winter chuffing vids go?
http://www.guardian.co.uk/sport/video/2013/mar/11/snowdon-climber-falling-ice-video

Good demo of why leashes are still a good idea, and how not to ice axe arrest.

[El Mocho]

Portugals first 9a (trailer)...

That aint Portugal, it is Pembroke and they have just bolted it. Looks nice.

[abarro81]

Not sure if it's been linked on here or not but the new BD catalogue has some cool vids of both routes and boulders in it: Honnold on leaning tower proj, Dave Mac on his 9a, wheel of life direct etc
http://catalog.blackdiamondequipment.com/climbing2013/en_us/

[Wood FT]

Portugals first 9a (trailer)...

That aint Portugal, it is Pembroke and they have just bolted it. Looks nice.

Went to this cliff last year, really impressive. We ended up not climbing as I chickened out half way across the rope traverse in. . .

[Fiend]

Not bad that BD stuff, Honnold and Norway boring and not much climbing, Dave Mac's line looks great, would like to see a full video of that. Utah stuff cool as is Wheel Of jesus fuck that's long.

[abarro81]

Wheel looks SO good

[J_duds]

Wheel looks SO good

very good - it even has knee bars for you!

[standard]

notice the sharp looking double knee bar at the beginning done without pads.

[hobblingfool]

I love the rest towards the end (about 4min in) where he uses the bottom of his shoe as a hold while hanging on a toe hook. Never seen that before. Awesome looking rock and problem, looks exhausting.

[slackline]

[Jaspersharpe]

What fucked up grading system is Macleod using where doing an 8c+ and then adding a harder cux on top of it = 8c+/9a. Slash grades are completely shit anyway but that doesn't even make any sense.

[Fiend]

One where the ego can demand undergrading as much as overgrading...

[abarro81]

I think it means "I think it's 9a but people in the UK like acting like c*nts when your stuff gets downgraded so I'll give it a slash grade. Not only will this cover me if it gets put down to 8c+ but it will piss some people off too". This (the first part anyway) is also roughly how I read Pearson's logic of giving his Turkey thing 8c+ instead of 9a.

[El Mocho]

What fucked up grading system is Macleod using where doing an 8c+ and then adding a harder cux on top of it = 8c+/9a. Slash grades are completely shit anyway but that doesn't even make any sense.

I think this had just happened? http://www.jamesmchaffie.com/1/post/2012/09/team-no-hope-head-to-hoy.html

Does seem a pretty harsh grade though doesn't it? (the sport thing, no idea on long hope, Caff's views on grades are complete bollocks)

[RossH]

The latest MCofS mag has a cover photo of Macleod on this route, and the caption describes it as 9a+. This was always the grade he seemed to suggest on his blog when he was working it.

[cheque]

Climbing starts at 2:30.

[andy popp]

 

[jwi]

Nice looking route, most Hong cracks from the early 80s are amazing.

[Baldy]

As someone that has never really seen the big man climb this was just glorious.

The video quality may not be great (much better when it actually gets to the climbing) but the content is just incredible.



So many routes I am inspired to go and climb now!

(where can I find some replica red and yellow trousers?)

[csl]

Magnus crushing to some trance, what more could you want?

The Santa Linya Collective - first teaser