[Fiend]

Good stuff....cabbage cake lol.

John Horscroft does a good job there too.

[r-man]

[Fiend]

He clips bolt #2 at 0:28 and bolt #3 at 1:14.

Amazing looking route. Would love to see footage of some of the F8b slabs at La Pedriza.

[r-man]

Would love to see footage of some of the F8b slabs at La Pedriza.

Si Senor!

[Mike Tyson]

Did anyone else attend the showing at Kendal Wall of Hock's short film of Caff climbing the Meltdown? It was absolutely mint! 

[Doylo]

Did anyone else attend the showing at Kendal Wall of Hock's short film of Caff climbing the Meltdown? It was absolutely mint! 

I wasn't there but hock has showed me it. Very nice! Good Dawes interview

[r-man]

Redhead's perspective...

It was from my warehouse home here that my involvement with E9 6c was filmed and recorded. This happened within the last few weeks of my departure from this special perch. John Mortimer’s son, Jeremy, produced an excellent piece for Radio Three called, ‘Between the Ears’. Dominic Clemence produced and directed the film for BBC2. This was the attempted story of The Indian Face, a fierce route on the cathedral of rock, Clogwyn Du Arddu, on the flank of Snowdon. I liked the bit where I am sat under my climbing wall in the studio flippantly explaining the image I painted on the scar where the flake had been. This small granite flake had come away in my arms whilst testing the peg that had been smashed into its side. I drew a quick sketch on the wall of ‘the hunt‘, something that had stayed with me from viewing the Lascaux Caves in France. Only two people had seen it. Paul Williams had photographed it and Johnny Dawes had scraped it off (or rather, an acolyte had scraped it off). One had died and the other had seemingly gone mad!

 The late Paul Williams photograph of John Redhead's notorious Indian Face painting
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-V4-yaQGISNs/Tq0a_Fh5lOI/AAAAAAAABS0/NvRKkd6FEgE/s1600/indianfacepaintingx1.jpeg.jpg

I joke, but I had to get Johnny back in the script when he became defensive about my rant against top-roping. I stand by my argument that top-roping damages the rock! Bolt, peg, top-roping ego – damage done! The narrative needed his feedback and method of approach. It was important because it set the scene. My attempts on the line were foolish, naive and dangerously ‘pushed my luck’. His determination and intense, practiced approach won the day. I took a huge, very lucky fall. Warriors or not, I think we both enjoyed negotiating with our lives in our own way. Perhaps the rock was secondary to the psychopathy that we both moved through? And out of? I think it a great historical episode and one that the youths of today will have to take on board and finish off? Or perhaps not. Perhaps it was a full stop. The youths of today have moved on by doing their own thing that in turn moves on towards their own full stop. They are emerged in their own paragraph. An endless series of climbing’s punctuation. Perhaps a few will turn a few pages back…

[Wood FT]

such great writing

[Nigel]

Agreed, amazing stuff. Please can someone get Redhead and Dave Graham in the same room and film it?

[Jaspersharpe]

  Fantastic stuff.

[shurt]

'E9 6c is out there on the street every night'

I can't believe he says this with a straight face! Total legend

[Fiend]

His writing is one of the main reasons I've kept The Power Of Climbing.

That and it being unsellable due to having the "Jasper Sharpe" pages ripped and and anally abused.

Good quotes above, one of his more balanced views on IF.

[Jaspersharpe]

 

[csl]

Great video about Tommy Caldwell -

[jwi]

Moment of Joy


Hlaska is fearsome.

[Paul B]

This:


made me laugh quite a lot. Winning by attrition and shear stupidity, 6 days after heart surgery and with [wet] down insulation!

[masonwoods101]

[r-man]

this link might work better for non mobile users

aruD aruD aL

[masonwoods101]

iPad sorry. Realised towards the end... It's the reel rock ain't it? 

[abarro81]

Yes, but the footage is mirrored somehow..

[iwasmexican]

Yes, but the footage is mirrored somehow..

to avoid being automatically detected for copyright or something like that

[masonwoods101]

just like to say.... it wasnt me if any copyright inspectors ask...

[Will Hunt]

 

[leeroy]

funny how the film itself is on itv now. great parody!

[r-man]