[Houdini]

William,

the Optimus prime footage is far better, I thought you would know . . .

[Will Hunt]

I dunno. Of course being the star attraction in the Optimus Prime video was what turned me on a path of fame, drink, drugs and mad sex which I just wasnt ready for at the time. I suppose thats soured the video for me.
( )

And who doesnt like a good fall, eh? The cam that ripped in the fall has big chunks gouged out of it and the quickdraw was bent out of shape so the gate no longer closes.

[lagerstarfish]

William,

the Optimus prime footage is far better, I thought you would know . . .

Optimus Prime! First ascent? - MY ARSE
I myself have led this route twice, in 1990/91 and 1996 (bit of a guess on both years). It was first led by ex-Ilkley-regular and large judo boy, John Law in about 1988-90 ish, maybe earlier. He called it Warriors (Of The Wasteland?). Good route though. When I was a school boy with no transport, this used to be one of our regular top rope pissing about toys.

[Will Hunt]

There was a lot of talk about this but no record of it was found. Oh wells.
Out of interest what grade was it getting when you did it?

[lagerstarfish]

E5 6b is spot on. Second time I did it, I reached out (full span) left from the flake that takes the little cams and wires to place a solid Quadcam 4 in the easy crack to the left (can't remember name of route  shame), making the last hard bit very safe. Top route, if a little sandy and pigeon shitty on the big ledge after the move above the gear. If it wasn't for the poor quality of that ledge, this route would deserve stars. The start used to be part of my boulder circuit - big reach from undercut to ledge and then traverse off left (there are good holds) instead of going up to the flake system - in the world before crashpads this felt like font 7a. I'm sure Mr Dunne will have led this route too, he certainly used to join in on our top rope sessions.

Other people who might have also done it (regulars at the time) are Simon Crossley, Simon Franks and Adam Wainwright, but I'm not sure. All this was nowt compared to a then tiny Mike Hall leading Wellington Crack at the age of 13.

[andy_e]

Poor Sean- he'll be gutted at that.

[JC]

New vid of sharma in Santa Linya, check the fall!   

[neil h]

check this funniest thing i have seen in ages, a guy we know we took him to font for his first time, He normally does one armers for breakfast, and crank out english 6c for lunch, and flash any problem indoors for T


This is his first trip to font




http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=8I1cM4OzXxQ

[Carnage]

I know how he feels - I have an epic everytime getting off that problem. I think I fell down the gap from where he is, where the first vid ends!

[account_inactive]

What happened to that little mans teeth?

[Jaspersharpe]

He does look a bit.........Deliverance.

[clm]

What the flip is going on with the ridiculous media circus surrounding that optimus prime ascent. is he really climbing for fun.  im as about as disgusted and impressed as the pigeon!! (did you notice him)

[unclesomebody]

Ramonet Julian doing the first ascent of Maria Alba, 9a. It's an arete/slab/wall... 

http://www.ramonjulian.com/videos/marialba9a.mpg (right click, save as)

[Fiend]

Ramonet Julian doing the first ascent of Maria Alba, 9a. It's an arete/slab/wall... 
http://www.ramonjulian.com/videos/marialba9a.mpg (right click, save as)

Great stuff, lovely. Really inspiring. How sodding hard must that be....Very Big And Very Small F8b+ E8 7a, 3 7a moves in a row etc etc. Maria Alba F9a E!! 7!!??

[andy popp]

Cheers Unc, that was great. Couldn't tell what rock type it was though?

[Houdini]

3 7a moves in a row etc etc.

Totally inaccurate, I know that route like the back of my hand.

The vid was good but quite hard to see where the main difficulties were.

[Jaspersharpe]

The vid was good but quite hard to see where the main difficulties were.

As in "he made it look fucking piss". Those holds must be really really bad.

[duncan]

Couldn't tell what rock type it was though?

Sandstone.  Looks quite good if you're in the area (Catalonia) and fancy a change from the usual.

Guide

[Fiend]

3 7a moves in a row etc etc.

Totally inaccurate, I know that route like the back of my hand.

Dish us the knowledge then Houdinizzle!

[Houdini]

It's quite simple Fiend, they are not consecutive 7a moves.  They are broken by others.  As the guide will tell you 

If you want to know more - I'm afraid you'll have to experience the nature of the problem yourself - coiz I don't dish out beta, pal. 

[Fiend]

LOL you slag. Like beta for that is any use for me. I was just reading what the guide says anyway (I know I'm such a punter I actually believe guidebooks....soz...)!

[r-man]

Red River Gorge

[unclesomebody]

I think this comes under chuffing... 

[Fiend]

I think it comes under WTF!!! as well   

[r-man]

http://www.s4c.co.uk/e_watch_level2.shtml?title=Wynebau%20Newydd:%20Dringo%20i'r%20Eitha'

Apparently you can get subtitles, but I can't figure it out...