[SA Chris]

Called out in comments, didn't like it.

[finbarrr]

Dutch crusher claims it’s okay to heel hook on your pad when “the hard climbing is over”,
Sad to see the coach of the Dutch boulder team set such a poor example.

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CrDM7QbtrTb/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

[Dac]

That dog was massive!

[webbo]

What is that pad there for.?

[dunnyg]

It wouldn't let me see the video for some reason, but the text said it is for a sun shade

[Fiend]

Personally I think folk should post comments when they see vids titled as ascents of problems, but the climber has not followed a rule by which the prob is defined.
These days people massively rely on video beta, to the extent that they often don't read the description of the problem. So bad beta propagates and quickly becomes the default beta, especially if it also happens to be easier than doing the actual problem.

Bumping this to remind me to reply to it later.

[scragrock]

Personally I think folk should post comments when they see vids titled as ascents of problems, but the climber has not followed a rule by which the prob is defined.
These days people massively rely on video beta, to the extent that they often don't read the description of the problem. So bad beta propagates and quickly becomes the default beta, especially if it also happens to be easier than doing the actual problem.

Bumping this to remind me to reply to it later.

Bumping this to remind me not to reply to it later

[andy moles]

Shame, I haven't read a surreal scragrock satirical rant in I dunno, weeks!

[scragrock]

Shame, I haven't read a surreal scragrock satirical rant in I dunno, weeks!

Much Appleojies brother Moles, i have been recovering from injuries sustained in the initiation ceremony for the Higher House of the Dab. 
Cardinal Lovesmallboys was half way through shaving my purities when a savage bout of Parkinson's threw him into a fevered quake, the resulting samurai assault left my groin in a sorry state.
I have been convalescing ever since, to be frank "its like a fucken casserole doon there", and therefore i have been a little quiet.

Keep fighting the good fight, i shall return.     

[thunderbeest]

It surprises me how many people think it's acceptable with a "non-crutial" dab.
When trying a bloc in Font I dabbed the stone next to the problem we were working on and I called out myself, but topped out nevertheless as it was my last attempt of the day. And everyone around kept on saying how that dab wasn't important. It didn't help in sending the boulder.

[Will Hunt]

It surprises me how many people think it's acceptable with a "non-crutial" dab.
When trying a bloc in Font I dabbed the stone next to the problem we were working on and I called out myself, but topped out nevertheless as it was my last attempt of the day. And everyone around kept on saying how that dab wasn't important. It didn't help in sending the boulder.

It makes me think less of bouldering that people think the one Finbarr posted matters. The sun shade hindered him if anything.

[JamieG]

In a similar vein, this is technically a dab, a massive dab at that. But I'm pretty sure no one thinks he didn't do the problem. Always grey areas aren't there.

[abarro81]

It makes me think less of bouldering that people think the one Finbarr posted matters. The sun shade hindered him if anything.

Quite. For full disclosure I should point out that when I did my link of Belly into Waddage I suspect my chalkbag didn't leave the floor for the first 10 moves. I've also removed towels from slots while climbing and chalked up from boulder buckets handed to me by my spotter mid-route or strategically positioned on the floor when I forgot my chalkbag. I'm looking forward to someone telling DG to get his tipex out for Spectre (7.50 here )

[Fiend]

I'm with Will Dab, Dabie G, and dabarro81 here. There's always grey areas and things that can be sensibly shrugged off - this isn't a militant IFSC-rules comp. It's less about "non-crucial" dabs and more about "non-relevant 'dabs' that clearly don't make the slightest bit of difference". Long hair dabs, baggy clothing brushing spotter, accidentally touching a leaf etc etc. Not sure about the one finbarr posted but thankfully this thread almost always sticks to the dabbiest of dabs 

[abarro81]

accidentally touching a leaf

Oh yeah, I forgot to include that in my confessions... my soul is as dirty as my heels from all the leaves they've scuffed on crappy low problems.

[Stu Littlefair]

accidentally touching a leaf

Oh yeah, I forgot to include that in my confessions... my soul is as dirty as my heels from all the leaves they've scuffed on crappy low problems.

Yeah, but bear in mind the size of your feet...

[Fiend]

Aren't they uusally just wedged somewhere in a roof to keep the kneebars in place and nowhere near the ground nor errant leaves??

[Fiend]

Personally I think folk should post comments when they see vids titled as ascents of problems, but the climber has not followed a rule by which the prob is defined.
These days people massively rely on video beta, to the extent that they often don't read the description of the problem. So bad beta propagates and quickly becomes the default beta, especially if it also happens to be easier than doing the actual problem.

Bumping this to remind me to reply to it later.

Unfortunately I don't think Scraggles is going to have much to argue against here. All I was going to say is that it's a fair point wanting to get video representation / video lines / video beta accurate. Having been in Font for a couple of weeks and discovering that as well as being The Spiritual Home Of Tickmarks and The Spiritual Home Of Honeypotting, it's also a Spiritual Home Of Eliminate Lines And Arbitrary Rules.... Well, at least, there are a few slightly harder problems that are adjacent enough to easier terrain to require some guidance. And thus I occasionally turned to bleau.info to try to gauge what exactly the line was and what exactly was "in". Generally this made sense but it did highlight the importance of people posting videos of the actual problems...

Incidentally I noticed an amusing general trend of many videos to be pretty dire apart from a reference for the lines - common trends being wasting time with channel logos and intros, rubbish shoecam angles or partly hidden behind trees, mostly filmed in the strongest possible sunlight and shade, and usually trying to avoid any perspective that shows the quality of the lines and aesthetics. I wonder if there might be a market for clearly shot well angled footage of relatively off-piste problems 

[thunderbeest]

I wonder if there might be a market for clearly shot well angled footage of relatively off-piste problems 

I am doing some repeats of less known/been a while since the last repeat problems. That's why I try to document it, because there's a lot of mystery/confusion about what the line is. But I really hate graphics and don't have any equipment besides my phone. So I often put out the video anyways to show where the boulder goes, but if it would require me to put even more effort into it I'd drop it..

Also working through the snow every time to turn on the camera is a pain, so it's easier to keep the camera a little bit too close..

[scragrock]

Personally I think folk should post comments when they see vids titled as ascents of problems, but the climber has not followed a rule by which the prob is defined.
These days people massively rely on video beta, to the extent that they often don't read the description of the problem. So bad beta propagates and quickly becomes the default beta, especially if it also happens to be easier than doing the actual problem.

Bumping this to remind me to reply to it later.

Unfortunately I don't think Scraggles is going to have much to argue against here. All I was going to say is that it's a fair point wanting to get video representation / video lines / video beta accurate. Having been in Font for a couple of weeks and discovering that as well as being The Spiritual Home Of Tickmarks and The Spiritual Home Of Honeypotting, it's also a Spiritual Home Of Eliminate Lines And Arbitrary Rules.... Well, at least, there are a few slightly harder problems that are adjacent enough to easier terrain to require some guidance. And thus I occasionally turned to bleau.info to try to gauge what exactly the line was and what exactly was "in". Generally this made sense but it did highlight the importance of people posting videos of the actual problems...

Incidentally I noticed an amusing general trend of many videos to be pretty dire apart from a reference for the lines - common trends being wasting time with channel logos and intros, rubbish shoecam angles or partly hidden behind trees, mostly filmed in the strongest possible sunlight and shade, and usually trying to avoid any perspective that shows the quality of the lines and aesthetics. I wonder if there might be a market for clearly shot well angled footage of relatively off-piste problems 

Oh ye of little faith

It will never catch on

[BenjyW]

Personally I think folk should post comments when they see vids titled as ascents of problems, but the climber has not followed a rule by which the prob is defined.
These days people massively rely on video beta, to the extent that they often don't read the description of the problem. So bad beta propagates and quickly becomes the default beta, especially if it also happens to be easier than doing the actual problem.

Bumping this to remind me to reply to it later.

Unfortunately I don't think Scraggles is going to have much to argue against here. All I was going to say is that it's a fair point wanting to get video representation / video lines / video beta accurate. Having been in Font for a couple of weeks and discovering that as well as being The Spiritual Home Of Tickmarks and The Spiritual Home Of Honeypotting, it's also a Spiritual Home Of Eliminate Lines And Arbitrary Rules.... Well, at least, there are a few slightly harder problems that are adjacent enough to easier terrain to require some guidance. And thus I occasionally turned to bleau.info to try to gauge what exactly the line was and what exactly was "in". Generally this made sense but it did highlight the importance of people posting videos of the actual problems...

Incidentally I noticed an amusing general trend of many videos to be pretty dire apart from a reference for the lines - common trends being wasting time with channel logos and intros, rubbish shoecam angles or partly hidden behind trees, mostly filmed in the strongest possible sunlight and shade, and usually trying to avoid any perspective that shows the quality of the lines and aesthetics. I wonder if there might be a market for clearly shot well angled footage of relatively off-piste problems 

If you pay for a better editing software i'll be happy to make better videos. Not everyone can affor expesnive kit and software.

[BenjyW]

I wonder if there might be a market for clearly shot well angled footage of relatively off-piste problems 

I am doing some repeats of less known/been a while since the last repeat problems. That's why I try to document it, because there's a lot of mystery/confusion about what the line is. But I really hate graphics and don't have any equipment besides my phone. So I often put out the video anyways to show where the boulder goes, but if it would require me to put even more effort into it I'd drop it..

Also working through the snow every time to turn on the camera is a pain, so it's easier to keep the camera a little bit too close..

This..... We can't all be expert videographers! All my videos are just as you said Fiend, references of lines but also evidence I did them.

[Fiend]

Sorry, a bit of a miscommunication - I was referring specifically to the videos of Font on bleau.info that I had been viewing for line/beta reference, and not bouldering videos on here or otherwise.

Also I was specifically referring to aspects that were nothing to do with editing software, but were clearly in the person's control e.g. filming directly into the sun, having half the forest in the way, having more intros and banter than climbing, not showing the full line, angles that don't do the aesthetics justice etc etc.

[BenjyW]

With you! Thought you meant in general

[Bradders]

I know it's called Born Dabby and I'd easily forgive the more minor ones, but does he actually stand on the block down and right?

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CrYhSacpdHE/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=