[Jonboy]

Just read an article in a magazine (climb nov) about ways to improve your forearm and finger strength...there were various ways it stated to do this (pritty obvious) and hand grippers were surgested.  I always thought they looked a-bit naff and there are no doubt better ways (besides more bouldering ), but It got me thinking  maybe they do work well...it said that Malcolm Smith can close a number2 iron something or other which is ment to be very impressive for a guy of his weight.
Was wondering if any1 here uses them? and do you think they work well (are they worth buying).

[squeek]

Firstly I haven't read the article so I'll probably talk some rubbish.

Malc closing a number 2 iron, is that just an indication of how strong he is due to other training, or is it he strong at climbing because he closes this?  Grip testers are good for telling you how strong your grip is, which is probably good to see how you are progessing.

I've got some of that putty stuff that I was bought as a present, I keep it in the car and sometimes try to use it to warm my fingers up on the way to the crag.

In my based on nothing opinion, if you were using them on their own to get strong you'd be much better just bouldering etc, but if you're bouldering anyway and using them in addition to it then it probably helps in someway, even if it is only slightly.

I'm thinking I might start doing something other than bouldering, but am tending towards weighted pullups because they don't stress your fingers as much and I've been told they're very good for getting you strong.

[moose]

Vaguely recall reading that hand grippers develop dynamic, crushing ability that doesn't help much at all with the "static" (or isostatic?) finger strength that climbers tend to need.  

Still, they probably won't harm as on a related thingy.  I met someone at the wall who swore by using a rubber ring as a training aid (around 4" diameter, 1-1.5" section) - it looked like a dogtoy but he got it from climbing shop (£3 at Wild Trak, Newcastle).  Slowly squeezing and releasing it (100x) during spare moments  / warmup had supposedly done the business for developing a bit more forearm stamina for those long pumpy sports-routes.  So I guess that those grippers, even if they don't improve finger strength might improve capillarity and endurance etc.  

Getting something similar myself  - a hand exerciser ("Eggsercizer") I spotted on a physio supplies website whilst stocking up on cheap Strapal.  Though, in my case it's more for trying to warm up my fingers on cold days.

[dave]

if you get bought some for christmas by you auty or summert then you may wnna use them for a few days until the novelty wears off. otherwise don't bother.

[Jonboy]

Squeek, it actually doesnt say if Mr Smith uses them as a training aid, I sort of read it as a test of strength like you say but I may be wrong.
Quite like the idea of warming up your fingers on a cold day..maybe 1 of those stress balls would work well for that.
I'll think I'll stick to rock rings and weigths  when it comes to bouldering training away from the crag, i cant see the point in owning anything novelty.

[Paz]

I thoght Haston could close a three, but said it only really applies to climbing on pinches, e.g. european bolted tufa stamina pitches.

[a dense loner]

I'll think I'll stick to rock rings, i cant see the point in owning anything novelty.

 

[Jonboy]

explain?

I think there a pritty good training aid if you spend some time on them.

PS Dave, you normaly start a sentence with a capital letter.

[r-man]

Came across this whilst out for a pleasant google in the woods. Advice for improving grip strength and all that jazz:

1. Buy a Rolling Thunder handle and do one handed deadlifts (aka suitcase deadlifts) with it. Make sure to use both hands. This will improve your grip strength and increase, not only your one handed deadlift PR, but your two handed deadlift PR.

2. Train with thick-handled bars. It will have the same effect as above.

3. Purchase good handgrippers. I don't mean those plastic grippers you get at K-Mart, I mean something like Captains Of Crush, Beef Builders, HeavyGrips, etc. I'd go with the Captains of Crush since they are the gold standard for grippers. They come in the following sizes.

Guide - 60 lbs - Twice as strong as a store-bought hand gripper, in all likelihood you will be able to close this with each hand, but not casually for endless reps while watching TV or on a roadtrip like you could with the smaller sporting goods store handgrippers, which rate at 30-40 lbs.

Sport - 80 lbs - A step up from the Guide, however you should be able to close it for at least one rep, which would be about average hand strength. It's called the sport because it's a size generally used by athletes to get the clicks out of their hands before playing their sport.

Trainer - 100 lbs - A step up from the Sport, and the first in the heavy section of the CoC. A good many, however not a majority, should be able to close this on the first try. For serious grip training, start here.

Number 1 - 140 lbs - Buy this if you have mastered the Trainer or you have unusually strong hands. Very few people will be able to close this on the first try, however, it has been done. This is a gripper good for bar bets.

Number 2 - 195 lbs - Coming in at just shy of 200 lbs, this CoC will provide a challenge for nearly everybody, however being able to close this gripper for reps is far from unattainable. This gripper is excellent for bar bets, and has the bonus feature of being able to embarass Joe Cool at your gym.

Number 3 - 280 lbs - A giant leap to the next gripper, this is the one that determines whether or not you are elite. Only 110 or so men have been able to close this in the past decade. If you can close this, you are given a special certifficate signifying that you have impressive grip strength. This gripper was handed to various top bodybuilders at the Arnold Expo, and only one was able to close it. This will win just about every bar bet.

Number 4 - 365 lbs - Only five men have ever closed this gripper. If you can close it on your first try, then you apparently are Superman in disguise. An excellent training tool for Clark Kent and the top goal for us normal humans. If you want an otherworldly grip, set your sights on this. This will win every bar bet.

My brother's got a Trainer (100lbs), which I reckon most climbers would be able to close with a little effort. Never tried anything higher though.

Has anyone ever had a go on one of those dynometer grip-strength test thingies? I had a go on one when I was getting physio after breaking my wrist.



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  Just found this on the web. This'll really sort the men from the mice:

http://www.ugobasile.com/0e92c5-2.htm?OpenDocument

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More gripping stuff here:

This third test is of utmost importance for the wrestlers' future career, especially for those who will adopt the yotsu style (wrestling body to body with a grip on the mawashi). In this test the grip of potential recruits is evaluated, trying to determine how well they will be able to grab their opponent's mawashi so that he will not be able to break their hold. To do that, the NSK uses a little hand-held apparatus, as shown in the pictures. The candidate has to close his fist as strong as he can, and the apparatus registers the maximal deployed force.


For your information, common mortals have a grip strength of 50 kgf, but the greatest mawashi specialists largely surpass that value. Currently Kaio is the uncontested master as far as the grip is concerned, with100 kgf for his left and 110 kgf for his right hand. Able to crush an apple in his hand, Kaio doubtlessly boasts the most powerful fists in Sumo history. But the grip is not everything... On the contrary, with an average grip force of 50 kgf for both hands one can have a fine purely yotsu career, as demonstrated by the 66th Yokozuna Wakanohana, who was able to compensate for it by the strength of his legs!

[Jonboy]

R-man, very useful reply good work!!