Shining Cliff and eatswood info request (Read 10003 times)

Bonjoy · September 12, 2005, 03:22:52 pm

I am currently writing the scripts for both these crag to go in the forthcoming BMC guidebook. So if any of you have any opinions, anecdotes, general or specific on the crags in general or on particular routes or problems, let me know. Knowledge is power, power corrupts, absolute power corrupts absolutely, erm....

SA Chris · September 12, 2005, 03:29:36 pm

Quote from: "Bonjoy"

. Knowledge is power, power corrupts, absolute power corrupts absolutely, erm....

absolutely fabulous, fabulous darling, darling buds of may, mayflower, flower power, power to the people, people are people......

Nothing useful to contribute sorry.

Fiend · September 12, 2005, 05:47:32 pm

GG Bonus Joyous (p.s. like the ever-improving avatar). Hope you'll do justice to those crags and get more people to explore a bit and climb on them.

My thoughts:

Corpse Crack is HVS 5b (or E0 hem hem) and as good as it should be.

The Ghoul is fine at E1 5b and is a really nice route well worth it's **

Cave Arete felt precarious and I can't remember how much gear there was low down (was soloing), maybe HVS 5b?

I would LOVE to be able to give feedback on Sons and Lovers and Neb Traverse and would happily sell my anal beard to be able to get them done this winter....

Bramble Crack was quite tricky although I was sweating buckets.

backed off Wet With Sweat, looks good but was green and seemed hard for the grade.

Bonjoy · September 13, 2005, 08:57:58 am

Cheers Fiend, just what i'm after.
I agree regards Corpse Crack and have it down at that grade already.
Will have to have another look at Cave Arete. Have it down at VS at the mo but it's a long time since I last did it.
Sons and Lovers is great but is E2 5b rather than E3 5c. I basically gave the FA of S and L to Turnbull in exchange for a lift to the crag so I could do my project of the time Beyond the Forbidden Forest.

uptown · September 19, 2005, 05:08:54 pm

I remember visually stunning being remarkably fine - worth more attention.
What grade is that's cool going to be? I remember it being a lurch off a pebble for the top.

mildrip · September 19, 2005, 05:41:55 pm

Sadly the tree is encroaching onto VSU a bit, could do with a trim.
Am i right in saying you gave TFBM E6 6b, that's what I had it down at??

Bonjoy · September 19, 2005, 09:39:58 pm

Ooops, posted as the missus

uptown · September 20, 2005, 11:27:28 am

I Can't remember how it felt - probably soft at E6, though not 6b. Get it done Jon! Weird gear in some old peg pocket. Have you been over to see the 'Black Velvet' wall this year? If you ask me it needs some attention.

Bonjoy · September 21, 2005, 08:45:23 am

Nice pic, Lord Wilson in there too

! I haven't been on it since around the time of the FA. Can't remember that much abot it but remember it was good moves. In which way is it not 6b, up or down? It certainly looked at least 6b the other day.
Had another look at the Black Velvet wall. Either it's got worse recently or we were wearing some very rose tinted glasses that day

uptown · September 21, 2005, 11:34:13 am

Yeh, rose tinted glasses... The bearded weirdy first mentioned black velvet to me - enough said! Take a yard brush. Great line though.
TCBM is 6b, but not hard for E6.

Ru · September 21, 2005, 05:21:30 pm

eatswood trav is fb 7b+, but more V9 than V8 imho, if you're using v grades

Fiend · September 21, 2005, 05:28:00 pm

Now if there was a grade in between V8 and V9, well that could be useful

Fiend · April 02, 2006, 07:18:41 pm

Woot, got over there this Saturday, had a nice day dodging showers and doing routes....was quite busy when half of UKB / Beardown turned up later :wink:

Maybe Corpse Crack should be E1 5b after all I think...

Sons and Lovers, yup, definitely E2 5b **, nice moves but steady and over very quickly. I think it would be worth dropping a hint that runners in the upper Corpse crack should be avoided.

Neb Traverse, also definitely E2 5b, ** or *** I don't know. Quality route though, looked very intimidating when I was peering out around the corner but actually quite okay - but still exciting - when actually climbing it. I can imagine tall people could suffer shuffling along the hanging wall - good! I finished direct once on the sidewall, the diagonal crack was damp.

Errrr. That's all

P.S. Did have a moment of thinking of trying BTFF, mainly because the rock is so nice at eatswood and the conditions were good too and I just wanted more to do there! But decided against it...

andy_e · April 02, 2006, 08:40:21 pm

How's the guide going lovejoy?

Where is Shining Cliff? Or is it, indeed as I suspect, the same as Shining Clough?

Fiend · April 02, 2006, 08:59:10 pm

Quote from: "andi_e"

How's the guide going lovejoy?

Where is Shining Cliff? Or is it, indeed as I suspect, the same as Shining Clough?

Andi, think a little bit first. Look at Bonjoy's postings - he is not the sort of person to mix up two crag names and confuse Shining Cliff, a semi-esoteric semi-quarried outcrop near Matlock with Shining Clough, a well renowned moorland edge in both a completely different guidebook and a completely different county.

andy_e · April 02, 2006, 09:42:38 pm

Well that's what I thought... I was confused... quel surprise eh?

Bonjoy · April 03, 2006, 09:39:12 am

Cheers for the feedback. You'd have to ask Grimer how the guide in general is going. I'm well along with my bits but still have stuff to do.
You should try BTFF Fiend, I thought it was great. In hindsight it might be E5 though, at least that's what Dan Honeyman said when he tried to repeat. On the upside, I imagine the wider range of smallsize cams make the crucial gear in the slot better and easier to place now, but you probably wouldn't deck if it ripped anyway. Monster Monster still needs a repeat I think. That's well safe with a couple of ballnuts on the right.

BTW if anyone has any photos of either crag, bouldering or routes, it would be good to get some pics of these places in print. The original of that FA picture on That's Cool By Me could be useful Uptown. Do you have any MooCow pics?

Fiend · April 03, 2006, 09:48:49 am

Quote from: "Bonjoy"

You should try BTFF Fiend, I thought it was great.

Well, it did look very cool (the rock on that buttress is just so nice), but...

Quote

In hindsight it might be E5 though, at least that's what Dan Honeyman said when he tried to repeat.

...Dan H tried eh....that's not selling it a bumbly like me :shock:

Still who knows about the future...

Quote

BTW if anyone has any photos of either crag, bouldering or routes, it would be good to get some pics of these places in print.

The Cofe took a couple of pictures of my mate Mick when he was leading The Ghoul....although the radiation from Cofe's pink jumper might have wiped his memory card or something :wink:

cofe · April 03, 2006, 02:06:40 pm

Quote from: "Fiend"

The Cofe took a couple of pictures of my mate Mick when he was leading The Ghoul....although the radiation from Cofe's pink jumper might have wiped his memory card or something :wink:

fiend. i am a bad person - didn't know it was you at the time although i was filled in like craig david later. did take 2-3 or your man so will see what they're like. i normally like to have a word with people at the time if i take photos of em so dunno why i didn' this time. if they're ok i'll get in touch.

lovejoy - whacked off a load on some boulder problems etc too. will let you know what they're like. would be up for going back on a decent day before the leaves grow on the trees.

Bonjoy · April 03, 2006, 02:27:08 pm

That would be good. Maybe get one or two of those pics off Goose Creature too.

Fiend · April 03, 2006, 06:08:16 pm

Quote from: "cofe"

fiend. i am a bad person - didn't know it was you at the time although i was filled in like craig david later. did take 2-3 or your man so will see what they're like. i normally like to have a word with people at the time if i take photos of em so dunno why i didn' this time. if they're ok i'll get in touch.

No probs

. Yeah if the photos are decent, send them over and I'll pass them on to Mick.

Bonjoy · April 03, 2006, 06:13:56 pm

Have you been to Shining Cliff Fiend? I reckon you'd like it. It's a good crag in the E1-E4 band too.

cofe · April 03, 2006, 10:19:45 pm

i'd be keen for going back at some point word.

Bowie · April 04, 2006, 11:57:55 am

Quote

lovejoy - whacked off a load on some boulder problems

wrong dude, wrong.
[/quote]

uptown · April 04, 2006, 12:57:03 pm

Quote from: "Bonjoy"

BTW if anyone has any photos of either crag, bouldering or routes, it would be good to get some pics of these places in print. The original of that FA picture on That's Cool By Me could be useful Uptown. Do you have any MooCow pics?

TCBM was taken by Mr Turnbull - talk to him if you want the original.
I have moocow photos - this one just a couple of moves before the plummit - I think you'll agree there's a lot more to be said of staged photos in guides - I had my mind on other things that day!