[RichardB]

What do you personally consider to be easy, moderate, difficult and nigh on impossible in bouldering terms?

For me:-

Easy V1 & <
Moderate V2 to V3
Hard V4
Impossible V5 and above (subject to change).

The above is also dependent on problem type but is a fair generalisation.

[Bubba]

Currently:

Easy: <= V3
Mod: V4 - V5
Hard: > V5
Completely impossible (ie cannot move on them) > V8

That's a generalisation of course, there's some V5s that are piss, and some V3s and 4s that are a nightmare and my best recent(ish) grade is about V7/8.

Before I gave up climbing for 8 years those categories would have all been a couple of grades harder, but then I wasn't such a Bubba then  :wink:

[T.H.]

I don't even get grades.

I think a new grading system should be brought in, it goes as follows -

'Too piss to bother with'

'Can do'

'Can do with working'

'Don't bother'

[Bubba]

Well that's how I look at them more and more myself  (apart from the "too piss to bother with" coz I like doing piss problems too) . They're only a guide really and if a problem is in your fave style then the chances are it boosts your grade and if it's something that you're crap (eg roofs for me) then it cripples your grade.

People get far too hung up on them, but hey, it's fun to spray about and will always cause endless discussion and bullshite....

[Avoiding the Traitor]

For me:-

Easy V4 <
Moderate V5 to V6
Hard V7
Impossible V8 and above.

[RichardB]

I don't even get grades.

I think a new grading system should be brought in, it goes as follows -

'Too piss to bother with'

'Can do'

'Can do with working'

'Don't bother'

Yep, this is pretty much what I do. That system only works for the individual though. Is it Caley that has a 'Them youcan/them you can't' grading system?

I find a good thing to do to get the hang of grading is to go out without a guide, do a few problems, guessing the grade as you go. Check the actual grade (subjective in any event) when you get home.

I agree with Bubba that there is no such thing as too piss to bother with though!  

[dobbin]

It varies sooooooo much from problem to problem - I mean, Strawberries at Curbar gets about V4 (? James?) but I find it really hard!

living end - v11+
on a good day, with trailing winds - v10
in a day - v9
should really flash - v7
warm up - v3

[SirTom]

erm can somone direct me to a guide explaining v grades cause I know font 6a etc and the british equivalent.

[dontfollowme]

Have a look on rockfax.com

[mozzer]

I think that Strawberries is one of these funny ones.  Although I usually find V4-V5 tricky, or at least have to work them a bit, I found Strawberries quite straight forward.

The best tip I got for it though was to put your left toe right in the back of the break. Seemed to be a bit easier then.

[Bubba]

Strawberries is an odd problem - probably about V3 really when you get it right.

Until recently I could piss up it every time I went, but the last couple of times I've done something wrong and found it a hideous nightmare  :cry:

[dobbin]

Strawberries ... I've done something wrong and found it a hideous nightmare  :cry:

Precisely. Give me a line of crimps on a steep wall and I'm away, start putting footwork, technique and cracks into the equation and I'm back to basics.

Now Gorilla Warfare - thats my kind of problem.

[chris]

is that you ben? not seen you for a while....since you were meant to meet me at curbar but buggered of to the eagle stone. how are you? been climbin much?

[james]

I used to find strawberies nails, I couldnt get to the second crack.  Then oneday I pissed it and have done ever since.  It is about V4 but only if you have a good sequence that works for you.
Cheers

James

[gollum]

Not hard enough is my level. :grab:

[dobbin]

is that you ben? not seen you for a while....since you were meant to meet me at curbar but buggered of to the eagle stone. how are you? been climbin much?

This old Nag could be known as another name in real life i suppose - that would be telling...

The Eaglestone is quality by the way! loads of cool problems to play on! I was climbing loads, but tore a tendon on saturday at c'brook - now gonna be token photograph boy. Gutted.

How are you going?

[simes]

i havent a clue what my top bouldering grade is, can anyone help with grades for these (in Vs and font):
full green traverse
buckstone dyno
that ace arete at higgar east (on RHS), (near pooh)
deliverance

cheers.

[Bubba]

Take these with a pinch of salt:

full green traverse

V7

buckstone dyno

V6 - V8 depending on who you talk to

that ace arete at higgar east

dunno

deliverance

V8 - V10 depending on who you talk to

[chris]

alright dobbin. shame about your finger. im fine mate. been to the eagle stone once, cool place. sat at work at moment dreamin about climbin......sad but true.
hows the limestone at the moment? obviously wet from yesterday, but was it drying out? really want to go to cragx [name censored by bubba !] and try some problems there, never been before. whats it like?

[dobbin]

alright dobbin. shame about your finger.

Yeah, cheers man. I'm still gonna come out though, so don't delete me from your phone just yet! I'm gonna become the next simmonite, only not short, no tache - better dressed and better looking  :wink:  in other words I'm gonna come out and take photos and do one armers on me right!

hows the limestone at the moment?

It was in great nic at the weekend!

really want to go to XXXXX and try some problems there, never been before. whats it like?

SSSSHHH! we don't mention its name! officially speaking climbing is not permitted there as its a SSI (site of scientific interest). I'll initiate you in the ways of the crimp at some stage! dunno whats doing the weekend but I'm up for a look if you want to go?!

If we could coerce Gollum into coming you might just see some big numbers fall! its right up his street. Bloody sponsored hero!  :wink:  :wink:

[chris]

sorry bout that. didnt know. would come out at the wkend but off back 2 manchester. family do, you know the type of do where you need to get arseholed just to avoid making contact with your relatives. really want to go though, might be able to burn you off now your fingers ragged!! probably not though hey. will be up 4 goin some time next week after work, or is that too late?

[gollum]

Bloody sponsored hero!

I ain't sponsored by no-one although I did once get a pair of Croft boots (you'll all be too young too remember) for nowt, which was good as you'd be well pissed off if you'd paid for 'em

[chris]

what are croft boots?

[fatboySlimfast]

Dont remeber crofts but do remember hawkins rockhoppers, lasted for ever cos were made of some strange non friction super hard  rubber, they were crap. my first boots were second hand eb copies worn with two pairs of rugby socks cos they were to big, dont ask when that was.......jeez
didnt you have some hanwag crack specials bubba? i was jealous of them!

[Bubba]

didnt you have some hanwag crack specials bubba?

I sure did - I emotionally blackmailed my mum into bying them for me (on the grounds that they were much better so she thought I'd be less likely to fall off) after seeing Big Ron wearing them on the film where he did "The Prow" at the Snore.

They were ace, top dog at the time and comfy......but then came the Boreal Fire and super friction...