[LJ]

Right, am heading down to portland in a couple of weeks and never been before. Have heard some rumours that the campsites down there arent too keen on climbers? Whats the Knowledge on places to stay (camping wise)?

Also anyone want to recomend some routes to have a go at, as my knowledge of the place is minimal (Obviously bouldering as well).

Anything else i should be aware of (ethics etc) when im down there?

Cheers

[cofe]

i wouldn't bother with the bouldering word. some of the routes are good though. the little museum looks like a right scam too.

[dave]

Anything else i should be aware of (ethics etc)

portland ithn't in ethics, it'h in dorthet.

[SA Chris]

:D

I met a girl called Judith once, I asked her if her surname was Prietht, but she didn't get it.

[Bonjoy]

Some very good routes down there and some aweful choss. For a short visit Blacknor North and Battleship have some classics at all the right grades, with easy access. Blacknor is a tufa flava, battleship has some of the best rock quality on the island and is fairly shortish. For the best routes on Portland, Coastguard and Wallsend are the crags to go for. The east side has all the DWS and some fairly crap bouldering. Also on the east side are the Cuttings, short, technical routes on interestingly featured (grooves and aretes) rock, lacks the atmosphere and real quality of the west side crags but ok for a quick hit or for afternoon shade. Avoid Cuttings if it's humid as it gets super greasy!
 Have stayed at various campsites around Fleet (just west of Weymouth), all have been dull but effective. There is also a small caravan site on Portland which is cheap and convenient.

[Duma]

There's no campsites on the island, but so long as you're driving the fleet ones are fine. Personally I don't rate Blacknor North, or Battleship, mostly due to crowding, get your self down to Wallsend and Coastguard like Bonjoy says. Don't know what grades your looking at but 'Englands Dreaming' (7a+) at Blacknor, 'Zinc Oxide Mountain' (7b+) at Battleship, everything on the Trad Free World wall, 'Realm of Chaos' (7b+) and 'Colours' (7b) at Wallsend, Plus 'Shining Heart' (7c), 'Tenessee' (7c) and 'Walking the King' (6b+) are the most essential ticks I can come up with off the top of my head. You'll need a 60m rope for all the best stuff, and bits of Wallsend and Coastgaurd are slightly tidal. Thats about all...

[LJ]

Cheers, although those routes are all a tad tricky for a man of my calibre, looking at routes upto F7a really. Anyone got any favourites at those grades.

and will i be alright with a 50M rope or is a 60 needed.

ta

[cofe]

reptile smile probably needs a bit more traffic. it is good though.

[Bonjoy]

Reptile Smile 6a+
 Pregnant Pause 6a+
 Medusa Falls 7a
 Turned to Stone 6c+
 all above at various areas of Blacknor
 Buoys Will be Buoys 6b+ - Back Battleship
 losts of pleasant shortish routes on good rock up to 7a at battleship, non really stand out above the others.
 Superfly Guy 7a and Nothing But the Groove 6c+ both at same sector of either Wallsend or Coastguard (can't remember but is on rockfax database).

[chappers]

if it does not rain on friday and saturday is there even the smallest chance that owt will be dry for saturday (reptile smile area)????
ta

[tubbs]

More than the smallest chance - it will be fine with 2 rain-free days.  You probably only need 2 rain-free hours.

[chappers]

so....does that mean that it stays dry for the winter?
(cant believe ive not been down there yet)

[SA Chris]

It can do. The Bill is pretty exposed to the elements though, and I wouldn't fancy climbing out of the sun down there.

[andy_e]

cutting edge, the cuttings 6c+ (i think)

[tubbs]

Portland stays dry throughout the year. You must have heard of locals climbing in t-shirts in winter - it's true.

East coast gets full sunshine until lunch, then over to Blacknor Central/South for afternoon sun.

Admittedly, Wallsend and Coastguard can be a bit damp on overcast days in winter, but are usually OK if the sun is shining.

There's no seepage to speak of on Portland, except for a couple of overflow pipes which are easy to avoid.

[r-man]

cutting edge, the cuttings 6c+ (i think)

I think it's 6c. But yes, it is good.

[r-man]

What's this hidden cove place like then? The pictures make it look reasonable.

[squeek]

Bouldering on portland must be good there was a short section of countryfile dedicated to it!

[tubbs]

Bouldering on portland must be good there was a short section of countryfile dedicated to it!

Yes - that piece was done at Hidden Cove.  Good bouldering only 1 minute from the car/cafe and right by the sea with pebbly landings. Nothing more than V5 really, but all good. Barrel Zawn also has some good stuff up to V8, and is only 20 metres away from Hidden Cove.

Need low tide and low-ish humidity to get the best out of it.

Will be fully covered in the CC Guide to Portland and Lulworth, due out later this century.