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Cornwall bouldering (Read 5730 times)

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Cornwall bouldering
August 09, 2005, 06:42:27 pm
Again the missus is taking me to the South West and I is looking for the 411 on da bouldering.

Any clues?

I have downloaded a topo of Godrevy but there doesn't seem to be much above 6a to have a crack at

Cheers

D :)

Duma

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#1 Cornwall bouldering
August 09, 2005, 10:29:20 pm
check out Javu.co.uk - theres some stuff  at sennen (just north of lands end) which looks hard, but I didn't have a mat when I was there - and you DEFINITELY need at LEAST one, and some spotters! also try carn brea (above Redruth) not sure about what the grades are like though. Just south of St Ives theres a bit, but have never been so don't have any idea what its like, think theres some info on this on Javu as well.

SA Chris

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#2 Cornwall bouldering
August 10, 2005, 08:03:21 am
Carn Brae has some good stuff, but takes a bit of finding. There is a big slab and a bit of a crag with some obvious lines and there is some good stuff either side of the path from the parking to the tower/castle/tea room (whatever it is). Has nice views too, but layer on the anti-hydral for a few days first, as the rock is almost as rough as Dartmoor.

Stu Littlefair

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#3 Cornwall bouldering
August 10, 2005, 09:58:57 am
There are a few V6/7s at godrevy to get on and a couple of obvious projects too. Nothing too taxing for a man of your calibre. If the tide is right, I'd have a morning on Carn Brea and finish off with an evening sesh/bbq at godrevy.

Also near there is a fantastic overhanging sweep of rock with one problem and many projects called "the wave", which none of the locals ever gave me directions to (for some reason).

Bonjoy

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#4 Cornwall bouldering
August 10, 2005, 10:19:47 am
Only place I have bouldered on down that way is at Downderry beach. Nice spot when tide is out. One rounded wave of smooth rock with a traverse and various steep up problems.

SA Chris

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#5 Cornwall bouldering
August 10, 2005, 10:21:04 am
Quote from: "Stu Littlefair"
Also near there is a fantastic overhanging sweep of rock with one problem and many projects called "the wave", which none of the locals ever gave me directions to (for some reason).


Because they wanted to see you almost kill yourself looking for it? Odd sense of humour down that way.

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#6 Cornwall bouldering
August 10, 2005, 11:09:04 am
Cheers guy's :)

Might have to dust off the old trad rack as well.............

SA Chris

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#7 Cornwall bouldering
August 10, 2005, 11:16:49 am
Now you're talking! What grades you lookingat and where will you be based.

Also, do you have any surfing ability? Good option in poor weather.

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#8 Cornwall bouldering
August 10, 2005, 11:24:17 am
I have managed to avoid trad climbing for the last 3 years.  I promised to take the little ladies dad out somewhere and would have thought that trad would be a better option than bouldering.

Any easy single pitch non tidal shizzle to be had?  Probably need to buy some sort of guide (rowland edwards thing ok?).  We will be near Truro but will have a car

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#9 Cornwall bouldering
August 10, 2005, 11:28:23 am
Sennens good for that sort of stuff, but prob fairly crowded ont weekend. Demo route is amazing easy route (HS?) - dunno what grade he climbs? the edwards thing is fine, and is about 3 quid in Trago Mills if you pass one.

SA Chris

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#10 Cornwall bouldering
August 10, 2005, 12:21:50 pm
Sennen is a good call. Non-tidal, but the platform can get splashed in stormy seas. Decent is OK once you find it, might be worth sussing out before you have others following you blindly. grades from mod upwards and an OK wall for a spot of bouldering. Nice situation and aspect. Also small town with good pub and nice beach.

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#11 Cornwall bouldering
August 10, 2005, 12:28:07 pm
Quote from: "Duma"
Sennens good for that sort of stuff, but prob fairly crowded ont weekend. Demo route is amazing easy route (HS?) - dunno what grade he climbs? the edwards thing is fine, and is about 3 quid in Trago Mills if you pass one.


WTF is Trago Mills?

Lucy's dad has never climbed before, but from what I gather he is fairly fit.  HS might be a little bit hard for him though (an me)

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#12 Cornwall bouldering
August 10, 2005, 01:04:55 pm
Trago Mills is this wierd shopping place you pass on the way. OK caff and all sorts of other crap. Expect "Keep the Pound" banners and stuff all over the Car Park. http://www.trago.co.uk/

I would try and track it down elsewhere if I was you. Or just turn up and have a look at someone else's guide.

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#13 Cornwall bouldering
August 18, 2005, 04:55:08 pm
"The Wave" is very close (2miles) to Godrevey if you drive from godrevey towards Portreath its down a steep cliff pathway in the last national trust carpark on your left before you get to aload of field. If fields on your left you have gone too far, if gorse then not far enough.

It is very sand and tide dependant!! (only climbable 3hrs either side of low tide)

About time someone did something hard down there!!

Some problems have been done on the 1st short wall (up to about V6-7) nothing much has been done on the main wall because its steep as F*~K and about 25ft high with a nice slab topout!!!

Rock is smooth and feels like soap which makes the problems all overhanging powerfests, landings are good though!! and theres lots of nice pebbles

ENJOY!!

 

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