[yorkslad]

On Monday 1 August Mike Adams climbed three new boulder problems at Wright's Rock, Lower Churnet.

1. Johnny Utah - V8+/9
Just right of fingers is an obviuos flake and hanging wave forming a roof. From the start of 'Alternative Three' climb into the roof onto undercuts and then reach wildly leftwards to catch the flake in the wave. From this make a long move to finish on the half height break.

2. Point Break - V8+
A direct finish through the roof of problem eight 'The Undercut'.

3. Bodhi - V8
Start as for problem nine then continue rightwards on the break until a powerful pull allows you via a long reach to gain the break above problem eleven. This finish can also be added to problem eleven at a grade of around V6.

Pictures to follow.

[Johnny Brown]

PAt King was active here earlier in the year - good chance he may have already done at least one of these...

[Ru]

Ace. The roof above the Undercut needed doing.

[a dense loner]

for anyone who is confused:
1 - 7B+/C
2 - 7B+
3 - 7B

[dave]

thanks dense, was thinking for a minute this must be a different churnet valley to the one in the peak for a minute there.

[Mirf]

Just got back from there, noticed loads of chalk going high up the crag Good effort they look really good. Has the problem left of Simple Simon been done yet? Cleaned and did a good new little problem on the small wall right of the far left crag 6c+/7a called keith sharpholds.

[ferret]

went to wrights the other day with mike. theres sum very good climbing here especially at this time of the year, no midges and conditions were more than ample.
mikes not sure if any of these problems are fa's and so typically hes not wantin to make a fuss, but hers sum info for any interested.
not sure of the names but;
the undercut extension seems a funny one to grade mike thinks its easy, but others think its hard, around 7b+ maybe 7c needs sum repeats. its a touch scarey i know that.
just left pockets 2 crimps then  2 finishes right into existing problem 7a or rock left to obvious flake and v long reach to the break now 7b with evolving sequences.
right of the undercut up 2 slopers then left and up via hard moves on gaston and undercut aound 7c+ again needs repeats 2 confirm as mike says hes crap at grading anything.
also of interest although im sure its been reported before is the prow at cottage rocks. basically  the first bit of rock u encounter before the more popular problems. start low on obvious large edge move left on crimps, and either straight up 7b or stay left until gaining the obvious large pinch on the arete via a tooth like pebble 7c, i can vouch for the quality of this one.
hopefully once mike gets internet access again he will pass on some more comprehensive info to ru.

[andy_e]

for anyone who is confused:
1 - 7B+/C
2 - 7B+
3 - 7B

no, V-grades don't confuse me, font gades do!

what does that nice looking traverse get? have to get down there.