[Fiend]

Okay it has an entirely justified reputation for a being a bag of wank for bouldering and r-man's p1mping on here tends to confirm rather than refute that.

BUT. The routes there are really quite good. In fact some of the best quarried grit in the country. Sure a few places can be a bit green and vegetated, but the underlying quality of climbing (even some of the green routes) is often great. Wiltons would be Millstone if it was south facing. Honestly.

I've explored many of the areas, major and minor, and I don't think I've done a bad route above VS/HVS there, even some of the more esoteric areas have hidden gems that are worthwhile on their own. Every day I've been to Wilton I've enjoyed, which is a better track record than some Eastern Grit crags (mentioning no curbars or anything hem hem).

So anyone wanting to climb somewhere cool and shady on a hot day, escape the crowds, queues and polish, relish the convenience of a 5 minute walk-in, and enhance your tendonitis boning on some phat crimps and fingerlocks a little way above bomber wires, give it a try.

1 1/4 hours from Sheffield too...

[Graeme]

Tis true, doing routes in Lancashire is better than the bouldering, and I personally feel that the climibing in the quarries is better than anything Millstone has to offer.

I'd climb there more only I'd rather go running.

[squeek]

Have you managed to get to Houghton now that it's open Fiend?

[Fiend]

Not quite yet.

Won't it really be too grubby after years of neglect??

[squeek]

Oh yeah forgot about your accident.  I've not been myself, as I still can't persuade Jee to go trad climbing, although at least he'll go sport climbing now, but it was open for a limited time last year and the year before, so it's not been total neglect.  I suspect what will happen is the classics will get cleaned whilst it's open and everything else will go into disrepair.  It doesn't help that it's not open after work, so the only time anyone with a job can go is at the weekend.

From the limited trad climbing I've done in lancashire I'd say it was pretty good, just a pity in some places there are sandy tops which run down the rock when it rains.  Bouldering in the quarries is probably poor in lancs, but longridge is great, the limestone venues of S lakes are good, and the natural grit bouldering's quite good.    Plus it's got the best bouldering wall.

[JR]

Have you managed to get to Houghton now that it's open Fiend?

i have although it was pissing it down so i didnt do anything.  The whole place needs a damn good clean, there are established trees growing out some of the cracklines and corners.  Saw someone doing rhodedendron buttress a few weeks ago from across the valley, so that must be doable.  Mandarin and the dangler are cleanish, however there is a nest, which is about twice the size of the nest on twikker at millstone, housing some VERY large birds.

Will defo go and clean something up and do a few routes there at some point soon, some of them look awesome.

As for lancashire being shit...

I dont think it is, and some fo the routes in the wiltons match those in the peak for quality.

Its just fucking midgey

[webbo]

yep even i would agree that lancs has got some great routes.i've had some great days at wilton espicially the day when i was going to try some classic e1 in wilton 1 but 2 locals who i thought were mates said not to do it as it was not too well protected.
do this route instead -----white slabs bunt!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

these days i'm not quite that gullible.

[Pantontino]

There are some great routes in the Wilton quarries, but my personal favourite as a youth was Anglezarke. I've got a B/W photo somewhere of me on Golden Tower when I was 17 - a truly classic route. That VS to the right (Samarkand) is also worth the journey by itself.

[andy_e]

nah the bouldring is the SHIZZ, man! check out brownstones obviously, and there are plenty of great problems in wilton 3, ie The Square

[Fiend]

Okay, in the spirit of fun, I'll post some of my favs from the quarries, starting alphabetically with the Zarke as in Anglezarke for those who don't know.

Metamorphis VS 4c - Nice steady wall climbing after a tricky start, good positive stuff.

The Storm VS 4c - Varied and interesting with a committing finish. 45' mudslope above is harrowing on the solo.

First Finale E1 5b - Steady crack/wall climbing with decent gear and some good holds, a no-nonsense fun climb.

Double Trip E2 5c - Very nice combination of wall climbing and a really good roof above, again nice and positive.

Fingertip Control E3/4 5c - Typical and classic "good half-height gear" style frightener. Commiting rather than hard wall climbing, and just plain good.

(Sorry no comments on Tangerine Trip nor Golden Tower, failed on one backed off the other DOH)

[r-man]

I've only ever done one day of routes in lancs. It went like this:

Dawn - HVS. Got quite pumped searching for the hidden hold. Was glad of the halfway ledge. Found the second half much easier. Nice route.

Ann - E1. Nice technical start. Placed what turned out to be shit gear in the flake/crack above. Climbed upwards, realised my gear had lifted out. Decided to hurry upwards. Great top section.

Canine Crucifixion - E2 (my first with ropes and stuff - ie. higher than 6m!). Felt much happier once I'd got some gear in halfway up. Proceeded to attempt a footswap and stand on the laces of the shoe I wanted to lift up. Laces came untied. (note to self - tuck laces in). Fingerjammed and worked tentaively upwards. Big slap to ledge. Hauled myself onto ledge and had a sitdown for some time, before climbing the remaining two metres. Brilliant fun.

Apart from that, I seconded a few things. There was a severe in Wilton 3 involving a caving maneovere in a body sized crack. And the VS that traverses across cheat, that was quite nice.

Here's a photo of Geoff Mann on Supercrack (E3 5c) in Wilton 1. All the routes on that wall look pretty intimidating.

[Fiend]

Today's choices...

Deeply Vale (remember this for next summer as it's a good, peaceful, shady crag for a warm day's picnic) :

Slab Dab VS 4c - good and fairly tricky slab climbing.

Ha'Penny Arete E1 5a - another classic "good gear at half height" type route, bomber gear in a slot and thought-provoking moves on angled holds. Probably E0...

(Haven't tried Mein Kampf yet, looks good if ferociously reachy)

Denham Quarry (The Lawrencefield of the North) :

Mohammed The Mad Monk VS 4c - a delectable VS although maybe worth a brush first as careless climbers keep knocking sand down in. Delicate and thoughtful climbing up a nice scoop.

Time E1 5a - good committing slab climbing on positive edges. A test of boldness at the grade.

End Of Time E2 5b - a great route combining bold and technical climbing low down, with committing but perfectly safe climbing higher up. A nice line with a good feel to it.

[clm]

does the fact that i ende3d up on twin monos about six feet above a runner and twelve feet above the big ledge mean i was off line on end of time?  i ummed and aahed and fiddled in an rp and then went left a bit and climbed an easier line.  im talking about the moves to the break.  did not feel anyway near e2.

[chris]

mein kampf is easy, all the holds are big and the roof is protected by an old bolt!! quite fiddly gear on the wall and tenous climbing up and on to the arete, but definately worth a go if your up there....get to it!

[Fiend]

r-man - lol, I can see why you stick to bouldering

clm - ummm, no idea, maybe you ended up on the E4 6b wall to the right?? End Of Time does have some sketchy moves moving rightwards below the break, with some abstract small-wires-in-flared-seams type gear. I had a wad belayer though which gave enough moral support.

Chris - cheers for the tip, hopefully next summer...

[andy_e]

heard somthing sneaky about fingertip control... there's a bolt thread halfway up that you can screw a bolt in to if you take it out afterwards...

[Fiend]

Been slack on this one. Next on the list: Egerton. This has got a place in my heart, as I was involved with a BMC clean-up here. Unlike some people who for some unknown reason were hacking out no-star VDiffs out of mud-slopes, I got on with cleaning some good but underused routes - and later went back to relish their quality.

Egerton Quarry:

Cherry Bomb VS 4c - an obvious choice but there's a good reason for that. If it was at Millstone it would be a classic old-skool battle up a corner crack. At Egerton, it's still a classic old-skool battle up a corner crack.

Gallows Pole HVS 5a - simply one of the best HVS 5a wall climbs around. Bold climbing on good holds leads to well-protected technicalities to finish. A must.

Lubalin E2 5b - more great wall climbing, steady crimping with a tastily run-out feel.

Confusion E2/3 5c - originally no stars, now worth 2. Tricky and committing wall moves to gain a nice position and steady jugs near an arete.

Ice Cool Acid Test E3 6a - yet more excellent wall climbing. A brilliant crux, reasonably protected with a low side-runner, and steady boldness above. Good photo potential too...

Enjoy!


p.s. Andi_e, sounds like it would be hard work and unnecessary to me...

[squeek]

Unlike some people who for some unknown reason were hacking out no-star VDiffs out of mud-slopes, I got on with cleaning some good but underused routes

In my defence, the reason was unknown to me and I was just asked what I could do to help, and he said, 'oh you can come and help me'  I didn't realise he wanted to start excavating!  I thought it was a little odd when I was handed a pick axe to help me.

[Fiend]

Och aye, not really pointing the finger at anyone, just that the usefulness of what people chose to do (or were coerced to do) was quite variable. Hats off to the people who were clearing litter, clearing trees, and hacking out paths too. Would have been back this summer apart from the foot problem. Maybe next year!

[JR]

does the fact that i ende3d up on twin monos about six feet above a runner and twelve feet above the big ledge mean i was off line on end of time?  i ummed and aahed and fiddled in an rp and then went left a bit and climbed an easier line.  im talking about the moves to the break.  did not feel anyway near e2.

sounds about right....

it is where men are men and all that... ;-)

[JR]

Egerton Quarry:

Cherry Bomb VS 4c - an obvious choice but there's a good reason for that. If it was at Millstone it would be a classic old-skool battle up a corner crack. At Egerton, it's still a classic old-skool battle up a corner crack.

cracking route, would get HVS at millstone though! ;-)

[Fiend]

Let's have some more, on the esoteric tip for those who know the score... These might be off the beaten track, the routes might be hidden gems in a haystack of bollox, but for a select few high quality climbs in peaceful locations, well, why not??

Round Barn Quarry:
(Extensive, but not much of quality except this...)

The Pross E1 5b - worth popping in for just one 10m route? I reckon so, because it's a genuinely good one. A good mix of pumpy and gymnastic moves, with adequate gear. Last Straw is a nice HVS to warm up on.

Summit Quarry:
(A peaceful, isolated, sun trap, with a many nice short routes to play on)

Layback Crack VS 5a - does exactly what it says on the tin. Lovely positive, powerful, well protected laybacking, some of the best VS climbing around. Over all too soon but what fun.

Graves End E1 5b - a good contrast, slightly unnerving slab climbing that's awkward to protect where it's needed, but is of sustained interest.

Hawkeye E2 5c - a perfect little solo. No gear worth a squirt of yak jism, but plenty of nice crisp edges to reward the commitment required. Sweet.

Troy Quarry
(Extensive with quite a lot to do. Noisy mid-week but at quiet times it's rather scenic, complete with pond, waterfall, and waterfowl. Picnic business)

Rapunzel VS 5a - good crack/wall climbing with interesting rock features and good moves. Stacked Deck, HS 4b, to the left, makes a perfect warm-up.

Sounder Direct E1 5b - overgraded but underrated in the guide, a pleasantly strenuous HVS start warms one up nicely for good committing moves on reassuring edges to finish. A fine combination.

Shadowfax E2 5c - somewhat intimidating and elimate looking, but don't be fooled, once embarked, a satisfying mini-journey of surprising holds and good committing moves awaits.


Enjoy  :wink:

[JR]

Let's have some more, on the esoteric tip for those who know the score... These might be off the beaten track, the routes might be hidden gems in a haystack of bollox, but for a select few high quality climbs in peaceful locations, well, why not??

Round Barn Quarry:
(Extensive, but not much of quality except this...)

The Pross E1 5b - worth popping in for just one 10m route? I reckon so, because it's a genuinely good one. A good mix of pumpy and gymnastic moves, with adequate gear. Last Straw is a nice HVS to warm up on.

Enjoy  :wink:

Bo Selecta... good route, thought it was quite easy though...

[Fiend]

Right, bonus double bonanza time to wrap this one up:

Wilton 2 & 3
Two very fine quarries with open aspects and plenty of everyone from the low-grade climber upwards.

3

Crooked Crack VS 4c - An irresistable line with good gear and strenous, tricky climbing.

Central Crack HVS 5a - Ummm, an irresistable line with good gear and strenous, tricky climbing.

Shivers Arete E1 5b - A neat combination of a bouldery start and bouldery finish seperated by easy ground, with a useful peg and good position. Fun. Take a photographer for the top move.

Canine Cruxifiction E2 5c - Further proof, if anyone was needed, that a little bit of greeness shouldn't put one off quality climbing. When it's dry this is as fun a thin crack as any, with some pleasing stiff pulls.

2

Throsher VS 4c - Another tempting crack line, fairly amenable and fun climbing with a cool borehole feature.

Big Dorris E2 5c - Worth an extra tech grade and extra star compared to the guide. Good thin crack / wall climbing, with a cranky crux and committing finish.

Shallow Green E2 5c - Brushed and peg-replaced for the new millenium by persons unknown but deserving of gratitude. A fine route blending both bold climbing and good, safe, cranking.

(There's also lots more to go at at a slightly higher standard).

[Fiend]

And finally, the big one:

(P.S. Sorry Hoghton isn't included, haven't been there yet, and don't know what condition it will be in)

Wilton 1
The mother of all Lancashire quarries, it would be the next Millstone if it was south facing and next to Sheffield. As it is, grit your teeth for the 1 hour 15 minute drive and go on a dry day, and who knows you might even find it's better  :wink:

Christeena VS 5a - A superbly positioned route right on the crest of the mighty Prow feature. Persist with the bouldery start to gain the committing but fun upper section.

Dawn HVS 5b - A genuinely interesting climb with some steep crack climbing low down, leading to a minor rest before tackling some unusual and pleasing "directional" climbing on obtuse holds.

Central Route E1 5b - Very satisfying indeed. A big, steep, juggy romp up an imposing but ultimately very amenably crack/wall. Top fun.

Paradox E2 5b - Another one of those pleasing "combination" routes. This time the blend of steep, safe crack climbing and a bold and exposed wall provide the entertainment.

Wipeout E2 5b - A good old butch classic up a steep groove - intimidating, but liberally supplied with gear, jams, and hands-off thrutching.

Cheat E2 5b - A slightly more amenable grade assuming you have a full rack of micro-cams, peenuts, rps (or offsets, sliders, zeros) - if you fiddle enough in, the chipped but nevertheless rather good upper wall should feel almost safe. Good wall climbing and of course the cover tick.

Super Crack E2 5c - The name says it all really. Two very fine sections of safe but cranky thin crack climbing, and just enough of a rest in between to savour every bit of quality.

(Tip of the iceberg really...)

Right that's yer lot. Who knows some time in the future I might add Hoghton or do something similar for Rivelin Quarries. Anyway all mid-grade chuffers, when spring comes and things dry up a bit, set your in car nav to Bolton and see what fun you can have  :D