[Stubbs]

don't get me wrong, i'm down with yorkshire grit, but it is no where near comprehensive, and i think a lot of stuff gets done or repeated, but the news doesn't filter through to that site.

Plus if the places aren't your local crags, and you don't know where the hard lines are, you don't want to be printing off half a website every time you want to go to the crag!

[cofe]

about the overgrading nonsense - it's only a few isolated examples and this is the case everywhere. i can't believe i'm getting drawn into a grade debate. fortunately i've forgotton what my original point was.

[Stubbs]

Something about beef heels i think

[Bonjoy]

[wobble]

Ralph - its in the guide (at V9!!!) - Totally awesome wall round the arete to the right of suckers wall (the easy chips up the block opposite the sugarloaf).  Basically there's a line of hanging flakes with no obvious way of reaching them.  To quote the guide "The big wall to the right of the arete.  Gain the side pulls from the L or R.  The direct start awaits an ascent".  

Go and look at it and see if that makes any sense to you!!! The rumour I heard (no idea where it started) was that Chrisian Durkin had done this about the same time he did Zoo York.  I don't know of anyone else who got anywhere near it until Tim did it last year and thought Font 8a.  He did it via a really crappy crimp on the right (not at all obvious) and rocked up to the two finger pocket left of the hanging flake and then up into the sidepulls (hard cos footholds are pants)...

Anyway - if the description in the book is right (think a lot of people had assumed this was a wind up as it had seemed very improbable) - and Christian climbed this wall from the left and right - he's officially my hero and either I can't work out sequences to save my life (quite possible) or he massively undergraded it.

Would be cool if anyone out there knows where ACD's description came from...

As for YorkshireGrit.com – I've only had a brief look round it - think its only just starting to get well known - so although some of the very recent stuff which has been done is in there (and I think just about all the areas are covered), over the last 5 years in yorkshire, there has been the equivalent of a book full of new problems (Just about all the projects in the old guide got done + one heck of a lot more – just about all of which aren't on that site...)  Looks like a well put together site tho - hopefully if more start to use it, it might get a bit more comprehensive...  There's been so much tho, it might take some time...

i can't believe i'm getting drawn into a grade debate. fortunately i've forgotton what my original point was.

Hmm, I don't really know how I ended up in that myself – I started with a two liner abusing Johnny Brown for pretending he would ever be seen dead bending down to climb anything and ended with a half page rant – I must be bored…

[Bonjoy]

For my money I think yorshire is well due a new (preferably non-rockfax) guidebook, with new grades, photos and descriptions. Supplements are all very well but who wants to carry round two guidebooks. A new book is always good for building up psyche to visit new areas or re-visit old areas with a fresh perspective.

[Stubbs]

Yeah cool, the one to the left of the pinch right? I was actually looking at that the other night, as i remembered seeing in the book the grade wasn't too ridiculous, but i agree, there doesn't appear to be any holds at the start at all.

As to a new Yorkshire guide - possibly an even bigger job than the new peak guide? Would have to be pretty damn selective to avoid ending up as big as the grit route guide!

[uptown]

Yeh, let's have a new Yorkshire guide - maybe pheonix wall and a little sparkle will get some attention then - keep the cobwebs off them.
I came up with a Yorkshire graded list back in march '05 with over 220 independant 7a and above problems. Needless to say it's now September and it's grown to over 250. Let's keep the current development pace up - use Jon's excellent site to pass the knowledge, and get decent consensus opinions on 'what's what' before anyone attempts a new guide.
Any suitor needs to chat to me and me mates before authoring said guide - see Greg's guide thread to catch my drift! :wink:

[Bonjoy]

Bring on the list! Is you going to post up the gradelist on here or yorkshiregrit.com? Are they ranked in difficulty or list it just a straight list of all the 7s and 8s?

[uptown]

As a taster jon, peshmurga is on page 4 of 6.

[uptown]

Ooo, that does bring out a glaring omission though - was it 'Jesus Jelly Mould' and do you think 7a from standing and 7a+ from sitter Jon????

[uptown]

I left it off 'the list'.

[Bonjoy]

That's right name and grade both correct. Which one's Pheonix wall?

[uptown]

See http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/video.html?id=panorama__phoenix_wall

[Bonjoy]

I remember now! Looks mega. Seen any repeats yet?

[uptown]

Someone voted V9 for it on YG - don't know if they repeated it or not though. I thought F7b+ but try fitting that into a V grade!!!
BTW - 'the list' is in condescending order of difficulty.

[uptown]

I seem to have digressed from the original thread - The list 'deems' Ringpiece 7b for those who care - I just noticed the good weather - I'm off to the 'A' to try adding another to the list!

[Stubbs]

Assuming 7a = V6 still, there's a couple of the new rocky valley v6's that definitely should not make it onto the list.

7b for ringpiece? damn i'm gonna have to try harder then!

[Ru]

Doing lists is great, I did one before the peak guide was done. Id love to see it and add my two pennth on yorks grades.

[Jim]

come on uptown girl, stop teasing us with this talk of 'list's', get it posted up and let the grading debate begin!

[uptown]

Yeah yeah, all in good time - off to africa tomorrow for a couple of weeks so you'll all have to wait!

[andy_e]

I originally happened upon this thread in a quest for beta:

For my money I think yorshire is well due a new (preferably non-rockfax) guidebook, with new grades, photos and descriptions.

And 2 years later there's one due!

[Stubbs]

The beta that worked for me in the end was:

-Sit start matched in juggy sidepull, jam left foot in crack at the back
-Right hand up to big polished pinch
-Left hand into crimpy undercut
-Left foot heel lock in juggy sidepull
-Left hand out to sloper on arete
-right heel round onto the ramp
-release left heel (cos i'm short) right hand up to higher pinchy hold
-left hand through to jug - helicopter.
-Easy highball victory romp up to top of calf in front of wowed townies.....

[andy_e]

Awesome. Cheers!

[chappers]

andi, you are tall enough to get it by throwing for the ring with left hand while your left foot is still heel into starting hand holds like i did. i also sacked off any of the crimp in roof, just straight to sloper. mad swing eh?!