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Quality Bouldering Videos (part I) (Read 2101603 times)

Andy W

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#6975 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
November 29, 2020, 09:28:51 am
This video has come up on here before, I think the filmmaker was crowdfunding. Can't believe he actually made it. As well as the abuses mentioned by Andy above, we mustn't forget Eric Gill and his bestiality, i.e. his pet dog.

Absolute crap!

andy popp

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#6976 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
November 29, 2020, 09:59:20 am
There is an earlier thread from 2014 (which I don't remember seeing); the film maker was crowdfunding. Here he (presumably) is from that thread talking about their intentions for the film:

"There can be no legitimate account of Eric Gill that omits the scandalous aspects to his personal life. However, the subject of our film is not scandal. Though we will touch on his life honestly, we will also explore the lives and influence of a huge many others, and their contributions to their crafts. Without side-stepping the issue of Gill’s past or anybody else’s, we will nonetheless choose to focus on his, and their, creative achievements. Eric Gill is arguably the greatest letter cutter of the 20th century (and one of the most influential sculptors, typographers, wood cutters, amongst many other talents). Rather than deny his artistic genius and shun his beautiful works, we think it more useful and intelligent to try to understand how such a complex figure arrived at his remarkable innovations."

Except that the finished film (assuming this isn't a trailer) attempts to do absolutely none of that.

In particular, why say this - "Without side-stepping the issue of Gill’s past or anybody else’s, we will nonetheless choose to focus on his, and their, creative achievements." - if you don't want to invite a direct comparison, whilst also, however accidentally, implying that Eric Gill is not the only one with a past that might need side stepping.

There still seems to be a grim determination to reason away Eric Gill's abuses. See this 2017 article from the Guardian: https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2017/apr/09/eric-gill-the-body-ditchling-exhibition-rachel-cooke

Andy W

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#6977 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
November 29, 2020, 10:31:16 am
I think it's just a trailer, hopefully the film was never made. I've worked with two of the funders/supporters listed on the vimeo version; Newlyn Art Gallery and Inland Festival, I would be surprised if they had supported or funded such a film. I think ultimately it was a stab at something by a young film maker, the support he had would have been for making a trailer R&D etc, hence the subsequent crowdfunding.

I suppose ultimately I don't like to see John Gill (hero, to me and many) juxtaposed next to a justifiably controversial figure such as Eric Gill. Plus it's also just a very flimsy proposition conceptually.

andy popp

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#6978 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
November 29, 2020, 10:51:16 am
I think it's just a trailer, hopefully the film was never made.

I don't know, his website says there is a longer, 16 minute version (shown at festivals I guess). I was also surprised by some of the funders and prizes named across.

And like you, I just really dislike the very explicit comparison the film makes.

Andy W

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#6979 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
November 29, 2020, 10:52:21 am
ah ok, have you a link for the website?

andy popp

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mrjonathanr

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#6981 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
November 29, 2020, 11:05:19 am
I quite like the essay in film voiceover approach, but know nothing about Eric Gill and the film does not make a coherent case for the link between the two, or anything much really. Shame; there’s an argument to be made about the aesthetics of climbers and craftsmen.(Also a bit odd that the only woman is completely silent- how does Lucy fit into this?).

Perrin wrote up an interview with Pat Littlejohn years ago where listening to his accounts of new routing put him in mind of a cabinet maker discussing grains and textures. Not for nothing that Malcolm’s holds were marketed under Stonesmith either.

Looking forward to the next instalment with Johnny as Caravaggio.

r-man

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#6982 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
November 29, 2020, 12:07:54 pm
I quite like the essay in film voiceover approach, but know nothing about Eric Gill and the film does not make a coherent case for the link between the two, or anything much really. Shame; there’s an argument to be made about the aesthetics of climbers and craftsmen.(Also a bit odd that the only woman is completely silent- how does Lucy fit into this?).

I had similar thoughts. I thought it was worth sharing as an interesting curiosity. I wasn't completely convinced by the comparison, and a bit confused by Lucy...but I like being challenged to see a different perspective. Especially where the subject is something so familiar, like climbing, that I wear like an old slipper, and rarely see with new eyes.

One or two of the lines did catch my attention. I liked the reflection on hardened skin, pads that transmitted feeling. Made me think of cat's paws.

I didn't know about Eric Gill. If I had I'm sure I would have watched it with a frown. Seems a poor choice.

andy popp

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#6983 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
November 29, 2020, 12:33:56 pm
Just to be clear Robin, absolutely zero criticism of you for posting it.

andy_e

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#6984 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
December 16, 2020, 11:16:13 am
Although I am the subject of this video, which should preclude me from posting it here, I am submitting it to this thread for the following reasons:
  • - Hamfunk's excellent editing skills
  • - The airtime and stack from the top (Spot me darling!)
  • - Teddy's shorts


AMorris

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#6985 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
December 16, 2020, 11:26:06 am
really enjoyed that! Definitely deserving of a place in this thread.

Would love to do Malcs arete, what a line.

36chambers

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#6986 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
December 16, 2020, 12:38:01 pm
nice one Andy, brilliant top out tekkers.

spidermonkey09

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#6987 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
December 16, 2020, 01:00:16 pm
You bastard! Great effort.

andy_e

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#6988 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
December 16, 2020, 02:01:40 pm
It did take me another three sessions (or probably ~12 goes) since you were there!

monkey boy

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#6989 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
December 16, 2020, 03:20:08 pm
Excellent display of spotting too!

Ross Barker

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#6990 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
December 16, 2020, 03:24:04 pm
Phooaar, nice one! On the life goal list for most UK boulderers I imagine

turnipturned

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#6991 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
December 16, 2020, 03:44:50 pm
Well done Andy. Imagine how easy things would feel if you didn't wear skinny jeans climbing.

andy_e

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#6992 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
December 16, 2020, 03:46:04 pm
1% elastane and slim fit... Practically as flexible as lycra!

Fiend

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#6993 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
December 16, 2020, 07:14:15 pm
this really does put the MELLOW into mellow  :). Also the sticking of that hand bump at 0:35.

36chambers

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#6994 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
December 17, 2020, 09:02:30 am
That climb looks incredible

teestub

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#6995 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
December 17, 2020, 09:30:47 am
That hero move into the jug looks very satisfying.

SA Chris

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#6996 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
December 17, 2020, 12:12:00 pm
Although I am the subject of this video

Nice one Andy. I don't think I've ever seen anyone not do the double throw for the top, gives me hope that it might actually be possible for me.

andy_e

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#6997 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
December 17, 2020, 12:24:40 pm
You and I share a similar gift so you should also be able to keep your feet on when you hit the top!

SA Chris

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#6998 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
December 17, 2020, 12:38:52 pm
My "bulk" might be a differentiator though. Maybe have another crack in spring, post ultramarathon training!

AMorris

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#6999 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
December 17, 2020, 01:08:45 pm
this really does put the MELLOW into mellow  :). Also the sticking of that hand bump at 0:35.

wow what a cool line. My god this might be the first mellow video in a while that I haven't needed to mute

 

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