Quote from: Nibile on May 27, 2017, 08:50:49 amLoved the Voyager video, mostly because it features 1) a monster 2) a very clever guy 3) board climbong 4) heavy one arming. Fixed.
Loved the Voyager video, mostly because it features 1) a monster 2) a very clever guy 3) board climbong 4) heavy one arming.
One man and his dog, really liked this.
They gave Tetris 7b+, I'm interested on a vid should you give a problem the grade you believe it to be or go with guidebook and logbook consensus etc.
This is superb and free...
The soundtrack was overpowering and completely distracting. Probably my age though
I think my problem is I am overly strong at certain types of problems, I thought Tetris was super soft but mainly because it suits me. Still 7a+s out there I can't do. However all the guide books and votes for grade on UKC for example give it 7c or soft 7c. I feel if I put a video together and put 7b down for it I would look like a tool but that is probably where it sits for me in the problems i've done maybe 7b+ at the most.Still the hardest I have ever tried on a problem was The Gutter at the Roaches. Gets 7a+ but definitely felt harder than 7bs and 7b+s I've done. I can't give that 7c in a video and down grade everything I felt was easy.Just want to point out I'm not having a go, I do think Tetris is soft at 7c and from talking to very experienced people it does seem to be a common feeling. It's just think it's interesting. If I gave my grade list of problems it wouldn't be anything like the guidebooks.
There are definitely problems that I don't believe to be the guidebook grade but I wouldn't put them on film as the grade I felt they are. Should I/we?
This made me chuckle. If the 7A+ felt 7C, then that's what it felt. We're all inclined to knock things down a peg, but not up. Psychologist must have a term for this bias?
But I fear that the »Bouldering Classics« are going to have the same problem as most of the film's in the series. The climbs are way too easy for the climbers.