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Quality Bouldering Videos (part I) (Read 2101768 times)

Jaspersharpe

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Nearly did Hubble in an hour. Decent.

tommytwotone

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Nearly did Hubble in an hour. Decent.


Blimey. Nearly doing Hubble is the new doing Hubble. Ben Moon and Malc Smith will be pissed.


Stubbs

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Worth noting for future visiting stars that not doing a short 8c+ in an hour will get you more attention than climbing a long 8c second go  ;)

Great video, interesting to contrast his style to Ondra's, very slow and deliberate.

PipeSmoke

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Nearly did Hubble in an hour. Decent.


Blimey. Nearly doing Hubble is the new doing Hubble. Ben Moon and Malc Smith will be pissed.

I think if he'd actually done it an hour, it would be more than 'decent'. so maybe not quite like doing hubble

Stu Littlefair

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What's quite interesting about the fascination with Adam and Alex not doing Hubble is that it shows

1) Hubble is hard for the grade, which we already knew

2) we haven't really assimilated just how good these guys are. We don't really understand what it means to be a 9a onsight climber. That's nearly a full number grade harder than I climb, so the equivalent for me would be failing on a quick tick of an 8a, which almost never happens. So it's not surprising they did well on it in short order. What is surprising is that neither actually did it. (See 1)

gme

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The most worrying thing about the bit of the film i have watched (hubble) is that he is close to getting a knee bar in on the crux. It almost looks as if the addition of a pad or a slightly longer leg length would perhaps work.

Surely this is something that must be stopped before it happens.

Stubbs

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Surely this is something that must be stopped before it happens.

Dave Graham got in there a few years ago!



Re: Hubble is it possible that they both didn't want to trash themselves on a boulder problem on a rope when they could be climbing nice routes instead?

SA Chris

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Maybe they want to do a boulder problem on a rope? Megos just did Action Directe after all ;)

Stubbs

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You might note that Megos has only just done it, despite Frankenjura being his local climbing area, he's probably run out of other things to climb!

slackline

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You might note that Megos has only just done it, despite Frankenjura being his local climbing area, he's probably run out of other things to climb!

He was afraid of trying it because of its reputation and then dreamt of doing it in a day.

jwi

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Action Directe is not a boulder problem either.

PipeSmoke

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Out of interest, does anybody know what is the quickest send of hubble?

gme

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Action Directe is not a boulder problem either.

Its not long either. AD around 15-18 moves. Hubble around 10 from ground to when hard bit is finished plus a 7c+ route on top.

SA Chris

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Maybe they want to do a boulder problem on a rope? Megos just did Action Directe after all ;)

Sorry, it wasn't clear enough first time round.

Kingy

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Out of interest, does anybody know what is the quickest send of hubble?

Taking the ascents by Ben, Malc, Gaskins, Steve Dunning and Ste Mac (not to mention that by Rich S  :worms:), I guess the quickest may well have been Ben's, although I have no knowledge of how quick Steve D's ascent was or really any accurate knowledge of number of sessions/ days etc. spent for anyone else.

Anyone know any different? Any more shy Hubble baggers out there? Crazy that its only been climbed 5(6) times in 24 years.


Jaspersharpe

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Ted I think you just won the prize for most conjecture in a forum post ever. I'll try to better it....

Ben - well someone could ask him or you could work it out from his training diaries that he put online recently. Definitely put some hours in.

Malc - Not much time on the route at all but plenty on his replica.

Steve Mac - I'd guess the quickest ascent as he avoided it, it not being his style, for ages and then crushed it.

Steve Dunning - no idea. Again, someone could just ask him couldn't they?

John Gaskins - See Shark's interview. Improved so much after putting that much effort in to climb it that it became a warm up. Or something.

Rich Simpson - Ran sub 4 minute mile.

For shortest time in days/hours on the route my money would be on Malc or Steve M but possibly only because I know they both did it.

Nibile

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In a very old interview on Grimper magazine, Ben told that Malc had spent the same time on the route as he had. Ten days. IIRC.

JackAus

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Johnny Brown

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Quote
my money would be on Malc or Steve M but possibly only because I know they both did it.

Ooof! Who saw Malc anyway?

Jaspersharpe

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Gresh was belaying.

fatneck

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Guys awesome new film Gritual is now available on the BMC

Only watched Part One so far but it's brilliant!! Well done mate!

Just realised it's on the Quality Chuffing Vids thread, possibly more appropriate than here, sorry about that...

slackline

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Sardinia bouldering exploration (Part 1)
Sardinia bouldering exploration (Part 2)
Sardinia bouldering exploration (Part 3)
Sardinia bouldering exploration (Part 4)

Usual EpicTV crap of not being able to embed them at present, I'm sure they'll turn up on their YouTube channel in a few weeks though.

roddersm

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Not sure if these have been posted but here are some newish videos of Fairhead by the FH bouldering guide guys -






Sloper

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Sardinia bouldering exploration (Part 1)
Sardinia bouldering exploration (Part 2)
Sardinia bouldering exploration (Part 3)
Sardinia bouldering exploration (Part 4)

Usual EpicTV crap of not being able to embed them at present, I'm sure they'll turn up on their YouTube channel in a few weeks though.

There's a massive area to be developed about 25k from Santa Theresa di Galluria, from memory it's called la valle du luna, near agguis, thousands of granite blocks some the size of a house. We had a short play on some in about 2009?

Nibs you should check it out. 

slackline

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 :blink:


 

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