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Quality Bouldering Videos (part I) (Read 2100695 times)

miso soup

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http://vimeo.com/59587540#

Apparently been up for two months but don't think it's been posted here before.  Particularly good footage of Amber, gives a better sense of the 8Bness of it than anything else I've seen.

krymson

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Because there's not enough font videos!  ;D

quality climbing, quality music

r-man

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http://vimeo.com/59587540#

Apparently been up for two months but don't think it's been posted here before.  Particularly good footage of Amber, gives a better sense of the 8Bness of it than anything else I've seen.

That was good. I agree, Amber is well shot.

slackline

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Apparently been up for two months but don't think it's been posted here before. 

Black Diamond often upload videos, but do not make them publicly accessible straight away, instead waiting until the accompanying blog from their "athletes" is published (which for this video was a few days ago).

masonwoods101

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enjoyed the font video  :thumbsup:! whats the song at around 10 mins? cheers...

Fiend

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Nice footage in the BD clip!

SA Chris

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I really enjoy the BD clips; well filmed with interesting effects without being gimmicky, good music, nice contextual stuff avoiding the usual "driving to the crag", nice insigthful interviews without getting too Fryberger. And short enough that I can grab a quick watch at work!

Just a bit annoying when the do the "give name and grade before he succeeds" cliche to take any tension away.

willackers

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The Wave  :bow:

Nice one Ben!

Wood FT

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The Wave  :bow:

Nice one Ben!

Inspiring, great film

Jaspersharpe

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Quality.

Moo

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That really is quality, history is cool OK!!!

r-man

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shark

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The Wave  :bow:

Nice one Ben!

Inspiring, great film

The problem Ben Moon climbs at 7mins is Jerry's features and discs which weighs in at 8A/8A+.  :bow:

Without the discs was first done by Malc.     

abarro81

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Without the discs was first done by Malc.   
Malc's eliminates the disk for foot, but still uses it for hands as I understand it

shark

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Without the discs was first done by Malc.   
Malc's eliminates the disk for foot, but still uses it for hands as I understand it

My bad. I was just going on what I thought you said

Andy Harris

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Malc's problem climbs the whole problem with feet on features only, the original problem uses disc 2 as a foot hold. That single move has to be the hardest move I've ever come across. Malc gave it 8b but wouldn't be surprised if it's a lot harder.

There are numerous other features / disc problems including Justin P's project he recently did after years of effort. Needs a mini guide really.

a dense loner

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Lucky ure here to set people straight on eliminates as always Andy. Micky warms up on jerrys, its quite frightening really. Had 3sessions on malcs n says its significantly harder, but was told they're 8a n + respectively. He shud have done malcs 2nd session but didn't cos he's shit. We're gonna get Dave Jones down so he can burn micky off again

Jaspersharpe

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Purely in the interest of historical accuracy..........

I'm almost 100% sure the discs weren't like that when The Wave was originally built and were added/altered at a later date. I basically lived at The Foundry when I first moved up here and knew every inch of that wall (which is why I was able to win the first bouldering league there, cheating really  ;) ).

I first did this problem using one bolt on to start (think it was on the classic "blue holds" problem which was the only 'set' problem originally), to gain the first pinch as a handhold and then as a foothold for the match (also did it as a jump start to the pinches as the mats were lower then) then purely features. I did the move from the good edge after the pinches by putting LF on the left pinch and doing a massive step through with RF so as to reach the high edge statically.

I also tried to work out a way of gaining the pinches just on features but this seemed improbably hard (it was 1991 after all) but possible. There was a decent edge which you could do some sort of horrific shoulder press off IIRC and the footholds were shit.

JackAus

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Please oh please have subtitles in the full video...


r-man

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tomtom

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Nice problem - but what a log film... too much (dull) talking about conditions etc.. and did we really need the Nutella pancake scene??

masonwoods101

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if i hate anything about climbing films its footage of cooking/ eating and footage of people making a coffee with them metal things......  :chair:

andy popp

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His pancake skillz do look pretty dope tho'

SA Chris

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fo' shizzle

(insert any current faux gangsta speak here, I don't know what terminology regarded as "street". Or even if the word "street" is used anymore.)

masonwoods101

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if he wants to show off his pancake skills he should do it in a seperate video so i dont have to fast forward through it... 

 

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