Quality Bouldering Videos (part I) (Read 2100949 times)

r-man · July 03, 2012, 10:50:43 am

That is interesting. Lots of inventive rests. Do you know if the new beta makes Dead Can't Dance much easier, or is there not much in it?

abarro81 · July 03, 2012, 11:17:21 am

That looks so damn good! Is there an online topo for the cave to see how it all breaks down?

Carnage · July 03, 2012, 11:35:25 am

Looking at that sequence I wouldn't think so - I'd guess it just makes it higher percentage. The original method on DCD is weird and easily blown when you try to throw your foot up on the smear to after hitting the gaston. After all those moves, you'd want a bit of consistency!

I don't think theres any online topo - the gramps guide has the best pics.

r-man · July 03, 2012, 12:00:18 pm

Quote from: abarro81 on July 03, 2012, 11:17:21 am

That looks so damn good! Is there an online topo for the cave to see how it all breaks down?

Hollow Mountain Cave really is amazing. Wheel of Life is roughly 60 moves, with the hardest being the crux of Dead Can't Dance, right near the end.

V9 Extreme Cool
V11/12 Sleepy Hollow (1:25 in that video)
V9 Cave Man (3:35)
V11 Dead Can't Dance (6:35)

Bonjoy · July 03, 2012, 12:42:02 pm

New beta?! Ben Heason and Sam Edwards were using this beta on Dead Can't Dance when I was at HMC in 2002!
Brilliant place, I loved it.

Bonjoy · July 03, 2012, 12:43:36 pm

IIRC this beta dubbed Dead Can't Mince by some at the time.

abarro81 · July 03, 2012, 01:02:46 pm

I think I just found a new lifetime goal...

SA Chris · July 03, 2012, 09:20:03 pm

Quote from: Golt on July 02, 2012, 03:12:38 pm

He is certainly no slouch. Beast.

imagine how strong he would be if he didn't do yoga

Doylo · July 03, 2012, 10:00:10 pm

Waiting for Dense to arrive with a comment about paint drying

dave · July 03, 2012, 10:11:47 pm

Quote from: Carnage on July 03, 2012, 03:43:24 am

Ian Dory's ascent of the Wheel of Life. Interesting vid - Shows the new beta for extreme cool at the start and for Dead Can't Dance at the end, avoiding the heinous gaston move. So many kneebars and scums. And at 6.30, I wonder if holding your foot is considered aid?

Warning - this is the uncut ascent so features lots of resting.

fuck me that thing looks amazing, I'd so love to kick that place's back doors in, and paint it white on the way out.

Watching that I lost respect for the guy after about the eighth ten-minute shakeout, but he won my respect back after holding it together WHEN THE ONLY THING KEEPING HIM ON WAS HIM HOLDING ONTO HIS OWN FUCKING FOOT!!!!1111111111!!!!!!! OMG. Ledge.

Just out of interest, is any of what he's done part of that old Cave Rave thing, the travelling V10 climber's favourite V13 from back in the day?

a dense loner · July 03, 2012, 10:53:08 pm

I lv this. That sequence on extreme cool makes the v9 into a v4/5. Missing out the gaston move at the end and using the ledge for your feet? Using double knee pads! Naughty.
Not my words, I've never been or climbed 9a/+ and couldn't if I wanted to
Have a nice day