[cofe]

Good rant. I've seen a few people 'sit' start the likes of Tetris...

[joeisidle]

The rant did indeed seem a bit mean spirited. These routes are all in guidebooks so if people want the information on what constitutes the kosher tick it's there for them to follow, however if people aren't too interested in whether or not you need to perform a sit start in a specific way all the time then they will probably carry on doing this regardless of how it's done in the video. To me it just looked like a good quality video that someone's put a bit of time and effort into that's got me quite psyched to try thud (from the approved start of course). 

[andyjjj]

Duma, your attitude highlights everything that is wrong with climbing and human relations in general. End of argument.

[granticus]

Duma your attitude highlights everything that is wrong with climbing. End of argument.

Steady on now, what you having a go at 'climbing' for, there's nowt wrong with climbing, climbing's bloody fantastic, you can leave chimps and urangutans out of it too.

There's definitely some cheeky 'French starting' going on in that vid though.   

[ferret]

dont know much about these problems (other than tertris)
agree tetris is a bit sloppy
thud, unless your supposed to start matched on the undercut what he did seems pretty valid, his arms would have to be a foot longer to SS in that position
turbo, i for one would start just like he did, and i bet most people would do too, starting sitting and pulling on footless to throw your heel up, i mean really climbing supposed to be fun, applying a little common sense rather than a strict set of rules is the way i look at it, but each to their own

[r-man]

http://rustypeg.co.uk/

[SA Chris]

The only trouble with putting videos out on the public domain is that some people use beta gleaned from them as the gospel, and don't bother checking with the guidebook, or thinking for themselves. This then leads to perpetuation of incorrect information, grade discrepancies and confusion.

Other than that, it's not really that important.

[Andy B]

I agree with Duma. Problems start and finish in defined places. If you climb for fun, and want to start or finish somewhere else that's fine, but you won't have done the problem. On relatively long and non cruxy problems like Tetris, starting a few moves in can have a significant effect on the difficulty, and on Thud, the difference in difficulty between running and kicking off the floor to get the toe hook up versus pulling on before inverting (regardless of whether you can reach the dish from sitting) should be obvious. If these details are regarded as mean spirited knit picking, then I wish I'd saved myself a few sessions on Staminaband by stepping off at the two finger pocket. It's only two extra moves to the end after all.

[slackline]

Yes, but those who are bothered by the details can be proud/happy/content (or even smug) in knowing that you did it "the right way" and others didn't.

To stem the problem SA Chris highlights, perhaps leave a comment on the video's page itself so that others who view it just might read that it doesn't represent the correct sequence.  Beyond that not much else that can be done (as I'd imagine its already "bleedin' obvious" that if we saw people trying problems with incorrect sequences at the crag we'd helpfully point it out to them).

No point losing sleep over it. 

[granticus]

http://rustypeg.co.uk/

For those of you that know Mikey C who's doing the FA of this problem in the video, unfortunately he was admitted to hospital last week having had a stroke.  Saw him on Wednesday and he is doing OK but will have to have some sort of op to put things right.  All fingers are crossed that he makes a good recovery and we see him putting up more insane problems such as Jungle V.I.P. in the future. 

[ferret]

on Thud, the difference in difficulty between running and kicking off the floor to get the toe hook up versus pulling on before inverting (regardless of whether you can reach the dish from sitting) should be obvious.

I'm sure the difference is obvious, although I believe that Duma said Thud was a SS, which it clearly isn't, hence my comment.
Still i find you idea of pulling on before kicking the toe hook on a bit abitrary, many problems start like this and often its a hard move to kick the foot on.
should the next guidebook describe it as: start crouched with dish and undercut, pulling off the ground before swinging right foot to toehook is obligitary. ?
personally i'd rather see it downgraded (if its really that much easier) than have silly rules applied. moves look fun.

[Andy B]

Of course it's arbitrary. The entire activity of bouldering is arbitrary. That's my point; where problems start and finish, and how they are ascended in bouldering are all arbitrarily decided, and because of this, small differences take on more importance than is natural. As for whether you should pull on before swinging your foot up on Thud is a silly rule or not I would see it as similar to the difference between jump starting a problem or not. Do you think it's legit to jump start any problem? Re. the guide description, it doesn't say it's a sit start, but does say to start with your feet on the back wall. Of course, how you start Thud was only part of what I said. How do you feel about the rest of it?

[A Jooser]

For those of you that know Mikey C who's doing the FA of this problem in the video, unfortunately he was admitted to hospital last week having had a stroke.  Saw him on Wednesday and he is doing OK but will have to have some sort of op to put things right.  All fingers are crossed that he makes a good recovery and we see him putting up more insane problems such as Jungle V.I.P. in the future.

Crikey, I'm shocked to hear this Grant! Please wish him all the best from me when you next see him and I hope he'll be out and about again soon.

Barney C.

[b3n99]

Totally agree with Duma here, the description in the first vertebrate peak district guide states 'start from the perfect scallop and the undercut under the roof, with your feet on the back wall.' I along with many others i assume have no problem with him starting the problem where he does (or tetris with assistance from the floor for 2 moves) but he shouldn't claim these as a full ascent as it may change the views of people on where the proper start is. Despite this I very much enjoyed the video which was well put together and clearly the guy is a blooming good boulderer!

[Johnny Brown]

Jeez, you guys need to stop hating on the geez.

[granticus]

For those of you that know Mikey C who's doing the FA of this problem in the video, unfortunately he was admitted to hospital last week having had a stroke.  Saw him on Wednesday and he is doing OK but will have to have some sort of op to put things right.  All fingers are crossed that he makes a good recovery and we see him putting up more insane problems such as Jungle V.I.P. in the future.

Crikey, I'm shocked to hear this Grant! Please wish him all the best from me when you next see him and I hope he'll be out and about again soon.

Barney C.

No worries Barney.  Taken us all a bit bu surprise, hope to get down and see him (he's in Derriford) some point this week.  Will pass on your regards.  Cheers G.

[turnipturned]

Awful news about that Mikey lad, Hope he makes a full recovery.

[Duma]

http://rustypeg.co.uk/

For those of you that know Mikey C who's doing the FA of this problem in the video, unfortunately he was admitted to hospital last week having had a stroke.  Saw him on Wednesday and he is doing OK but will have to have some sort of op to put things right.  All fingers are crossed that he makes a good recovery and we see him putting up more insane problems such as Jungle V.I.P. in the future.

Only met him a couple of times in bristol, but that's awful news! Hope he makes a full recovery.
Jungle VIP looks great! Must stop in on my my to the folks next time.

[Dr T]

This one is great - nothing hard but makes the place look it's best 

[Dr T]

also.....

[neil h]

some quality low 7's in swiss from last weekend, also good beta for how to turn a 7c+ into a 7a+

[b3n99]

  That solo euro boulder trip really inspired me!!! Looks like that was a pretty dream 5 months, amazing.

[Doylo]

some quality low 7's in swiss from last weekend, also good beta for how to turn a 7c+ into a 7a+

Walk over the bridge to Magic wood?

[justin c]

@Duma

Dude I first did ready brek 18 years ago before the advent of boulderig  mats so to do it with mats is just some fun! Also thud starts like that because me and Paul both did it the same day apothem years ago. He got the first accent tho!
Great problems  

[Duma]

Justin - re ready brek there was no intention to imply anything negative about your ascent, it's just that the caption E4 seemed odd given the style, if I ever get up it it'll certainly involve a couple of mats. I stand corrected on thud, I was just going off the guide saying "start with feet on back wall"
Great problems indeed