[tatanka]

FreakClimbing.com reports of the second repeat of the first declared 8C+ in the world.

First ascent Mauro Calibani

Second ascent Julien Nadiras

More on FreakClimbing.com

[Mr.Burns]

nice work that man!!!

[tatanka]

I saw Tonino '78 recently, and I have to say... WELL DONE!!

 :shock:

[unclesomebody]

not only did he repeat it but he's gone on record and given it 8C.  That seems reasonable to me, and I respect the fact that he's not claiming the limelight but saying what he really thinks.  Good effort(on climbing it!).

[r-man]

not only did he repeat it but he's gone on record and given it 8C.

...You know you're climbing quite well when you can downgrade a problem and still claim V15.  :shock: Awesome stuff. Is he still 19 or has he now reached the ripe old age of 20?  :shock:

[tatanka]

He is from 86-07-17, still 19!

Check it out now he says that it is 8C+

[r-man]

Seems as though even 8a.boo would like to see some "proper" hard boulder problems...  :wink:

Tonino 78 is "only" around 15 moves long, making it the shortest problem above 8C in the world.

[tatanka]

Ahhh, you mean 8a.poo, I understand  

[r-man]

8a.poo?

Ahhh, you mean 8a.flu, I understand  

[unclesomebody]

so I take back what I said.  It seems that had only ever climbed one problem above 8A+ and that was the second half of Tonino78.  So he had ticked an 8B+ without ever having done at 8B.  That I could MAYBE believe... could be his style, easy access, worked it for fucking ages, who knows.  However, to then add a sitstart to a problem you've done, that seems to make sense.  He would only have to link up a problem he's done already.  So it makes sense that it would be his hardest problem ever.  He did give it 8C on his scorecard at first, and I would guess that Mauro or Julien then gave him shit or something to that extent and he then changed it back up to 8C+.  If I had only ever climbed 8A+ and went to font for a month then came back having claimed an 8C/+ i would get fucking laughed at.  I know that.  Even I would be laughing at myself.  Who knows how hard this problem is, only 3 people, and until I go there myself and look at it (or try it) then I have no idea what the reality is.  

seems a little sad to me that as a punter I will probably never find out the truth about this problem.  Some might say it really doesn't matter, but I think it does, in terms of climbing history.  History needs to be accurate and i don't think it will be when no one is speaking the truth about these hard problems.  Rant Over.

[Teaboy]

It does seem slightly suspicious that everyone who has been allowed to try this route has actually gone on to send it. You'd have thought the hardest problem in the world would claim a scalp or two rather than meekly bending over and taking it.

[r-man]

Antoine Vandeputte, still only 18, has made the 3rd ascent of Mauro Calibani's Tonino 78, 8C+, at Meschia. Antoine has done just one boulder harder than 8A+ previously, the original sit-down, Leonardo assis, hard 8B+, in September last year (it was 8B+ before an important hold broke and might now be harder). Tonino 78 adds a five-move 7C+ start to this problem.

So I'm curious. It's a five move V10 into a ten move V14 that gets V16... those are figures I have absolutely no experience of, so on a more comprehensible  level would a five move V5 into a ten move V9 really get V10, nevermind V11? And are there any examples of this?

Or even a five move V1 into a ten move V5? Surely not V6? An english 5b problem isn't really going to bother a 6b climber...

 :?:

[Ru]

There are no rules, it all depends. If the preceeding climbing makes the following climbing harder then the grade goes up, if it doesn't, it doesn't. Whether this happens is not totally dependant on the grade of the preceeding climbing.

So adding a five move V5 into a V9 may make it V10, but then again it might not. A tricky, technical V5 that takes no strength once wired, ending on a nice big hold to regain your composure, adjust, etc, might not add any grade onto a V9, but a burly, slappy V5 that ends on a crucial hold that is hard to adjust on, making the first move of the V9 harder, meaning you're badly set up for the 2nd move of the V9...etc might make the whole problem V10.

Other factors that may make a difference are whether the moves are similar. Are your fingers already numb from crimping before you start another crimpy sequence? Or does the style change meaning that numb fingers don't make it any harder?

Etc etc.

[webbo]

bens extention in to jerrys bumps it up two grades and its only reversing a  :shock: 7b.

[r-man]

Fair enough. But taking the example of a V1 into a V5, which I'm sure would never get V6, no matter how sustained the V1, perhaps lower grades suffer from people being too strong to grade them accurately? Or maybe high grades are graded higher because they are on the edge of people's abilities and thus any slight increase in difficulty seems so much bigger?

Just wondering, like.

[squeek]

V1 is probably a bad example becuase a most good climbers would be able to recover on a V1.  Whereas I'm guessing trying to recover or rest on a 7c+/V10 isn't quite as easy, even for these extremely strong guys.

V5 + V9 giving a V10 seems pretty reasonable to me thinking of some V5s,  with no resting place inbetween.  If it's steep, any moves no matter how easy are going to be sapping your strength.

Isn't dominated (Sit start to dominator) in Yosemite only one or two eng 5b moves onto the beginning, but no-one could do it for a while?

[r-man]

V1 is probably a bad example becuase a most good climbers would be able to recover on a V1. Whereas I'm guessing trying to recover or rest on a 7c+/V10 isn't quite as easy, even for these extremely strong guys.

So maybe when the grade of the starting problem increases, the effect it has on problems it links into becomes exponentially greater. (Is that the right word? I don't do maths).

So a V1 into a V5 makes no difference.
A V5 into a V9 might be V10.
And V10 into a V14 gets V16.

Isn't dominated (Sit start to dominator) in Yosemite only one or two eng 5b moves onto the beginning, but no-one could do it for a while?

Seriously?  :shock:

[account_inactive]

I'm not sure it works like that.  The reason why (I think) the Dominator took so long to get a SDS is that you get to the original holds in a different position making the original problem harder.  This happens quite a bit on extended problems.

In this country we don't have a huge amount of link ups that result in bigger grades (compared to the states).  In Bishop some of the link up result in mathmatical bollocks.  A V3 traverse into a V7 ends up being V8 etc etc.

Where will it all end;)

[a dense loner]

taking the dominator, the reason it didn't get a sit start was cos it wasn't the done thing n detracted from the line of the original prob not cos the moves made it harder. it was also done as a power prob, the whole point of it, none of this heel soiling.

as for all these linkups, some people mustn't be able to see the next boulder

[Mr.Burns]

There are no rules, it all depends. If the preceeding climbing makes the following climbing harder then the grade goes up

I agree, the link I did at Woodwell is a V9 into a V5 into a V3 and doing it as one problem certainly makes it feel alot harder and although there is a good hold after the crux of the V5 I found it made no difference to the finish of the problem (as in I still found it hard).

[Mr.Burns]

Although does that mean that a 3 move V15 is actually a harder piece of climbing that a 12 move V15? which is likely to see more ascents?