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Uk bouldering firsts (Read 77693 times)

cofe

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#275 Uk bouldering firsts
May 18, 2005, 05:15:51 pm
isn't syrett's roof v6?

why is the list in v grades?

a dense loner

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#276 Uk bouldering firsts
May 18, 2005, 05:55:36 pm
yes, why is the list in V grades?

r-man

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#277 Uk bouldering firsts
May 18, 2005, 06:54:27 pm
Bonjoy, I'm not so sure that isolated problems aren't worthy of a boulderer's attention. If it's a good problem, it can occupy a whole day. But I think you might be right about eliminates - although you wouldn't see them in an American hall of fame (correct me if I'm wrong there), this is the uk we're talking about, and maybe the fact that eliminates are a large part of our bouldering culture and history ought to be recognised.

I could be opening a big can of worms then, but go on, what eliminates should be on the list? We've ignored ALL eliminates so far, so any that you can think of are fair game.

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isn't syrett's roof v6?


It gets V5 in yorkshiregrit.com - and I thought someone argued it down from V7 in the guide to V5? Though I really can't remember anymore.

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why is the list in v grades?


Cos it started off as being a comparison with the planetfear world list, which is in V grades (the list was half french, half american, though they probably went off John Gill's site). Can't see that it really matters though, they're both (equally?) popular in the uk.

a dense loner

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#278 Uk bouldering firsts
May 18, 2005, 07:03:21 pm
that doesn't make it right tho. ball's to eliminates, this list is shit enough as it is without 20 more pages of drivel

Bubba

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#279 Uk bouldering firsts
May 18, 2005, 08:29:47 pm
Dense, I recommend you take a couple of these every morning :lol:


dave

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#280 Uk bouldering firsts
May 18, 2005, 08:41:22 pm
Quote from: "a dense loner"
yes, why is the list in V grades?


yes yes, why is the list in V grades? ALong a similar line, why are panton's bits in climber covering peak problems always in V-grades? naughty boy simon, spreading that old V-grade propaganda eh.......? :wink:

Bubba

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#281 Uk bouldering firsts
May 18, 2005, 08:43:55 pm
We can all convert between Font and V, so who really cares?

Pantontino

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#282 Uk bouldering firsts
May 18, 2005, 11:40:22 pm
Propaganda? What me? Surely not?

Sorry to debunk yer conspiracy theory Dave, but about 3-4 years ago, Bernard (editor of Climber) asked me to simplify/streamline the grades that I used in the Bouldering Scene column, primarily to reduce confusion, but also to save on space. At the time I used both V and Font grades (with translations, so that folk unfamiliar with either system could get their heads around the relative difficulty). In the end I went with V grades, because, at the time that system seemed to be the most popular across the country.

I'll shift (lock, stock and barrel) to Font grades, if the next Yorkshire guide does. (assuming all other variables remain constant...)

Bubba - that's a good point well made (and you've saved me saying it).

SA Chris

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#283 Uk bouldering firsts
May 19, 2005, 08:14:37 am
Quote from: "Bubba"
We can all convert between Font and V, so who really cares?


I can't. Most of the places I have bouldered extensively (US, SW, Yorkshire) have all used V grades. Grades in Font all seem hard, and I haven't bouldered that extensively up here yet (and besides Stone Country uses V too).

Yeah, I know I'm thick.

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cofe

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#285 Uk bouldering firsts
May 19, 2005, 09:27:46 am
the picture that some guy took of bonjoy that's in climber this month is captioned first as V9 and later, due to an error, as 7c. interesting...

i'm with dense i reckon. i'll work out why later.

dave

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#286 Uk bouldering firsts
May 19, 2005, 09:28:58 am
looks like its bernard's bad then! I bet he wouldn't do an article about fontainebleau in v-grades.

a dense loner

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#287 Uk bouldering firsts
May 19, 2005, 10:19:24 am
Quote
Dense, I recommend you take a couple of these every morning  


i think i'm goin to start needing to if this thread carries on, but i can't resist the need to find out how many times r-mans goin to post the full list up :lol:


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i'm with dense i reckon. i'll work out why later.


everyone is sooner or later, whether they like it or not. i'm a bit like the dark side

SA Chris

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#288 Uk bouldering firsts
May 19, 2005, 11:51:53 am
Quote from: "squeek"
http://www.rockfax.com/publications/bgrades.html?

Now you can!


Aye, I've got that. Printed. And stuck in the front of all my guides. what I meant was I can't instantly convert from one to the other, and have a clear idea of how difficult something is when someone says how hard it is in font grades, like I can with SA, US, UK climbing grades. Give or take a regional variation or two.

 

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