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Rubicon conditions reports (Read 333617 times)

Nigel Poustie

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#600 Re: Rubicon conditions reports
February 27, 2012, 09:28:39 am
Cheers for the update.
I'll try and get there soon!

OffshoreAndy

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#601 Re: Rubicon conditions reports
March 06, 2012, 05:37:08 pm
The traverse walls aren't in very good nick, wet in the pockets and the ground is particularly sludgey. Porthole traverse good as is kudos wall.

Adam Moroz

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#602 Re: Rubicon conditions reports
March 16, 2012, 01:12:48 pm
Looking like a wet one 2moro,any1 kno wot condition rubicon wall is in? Routes and bouldering.

leeroy

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#603 Re: Rubicon conditions reports
March 16, 2012, 01:27:15 pm
Someone did tsunami on kudos wall a few days ago and it hasnt rained much (if at all) since, so I'd guess kudos etc will be good. Dont know about the routes.

nik at work

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#604 Re: Rubicon conditions reports
March 21, 2012, 09:01:21 pm
Anyone know how Rubicon is looking? I might be Peakward bound this weekend.

Wood FT

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#605 Re: Rubicon conditions reports
March 21, 2012, 10:17:10 pm
all good sunday afternoon bouldering wise but too hot in the sun, muddy round the warm ups

robertostallioni

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#606 Re: Rubicon conditions reports
March 21, 2012, 10:20:48 pm
Anyone know how Rubicon is looking? I might be Peakward bound this weekend.

Don't count me out yet, sugar tits. May be able to pop along too.....


Plattsy

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#607 Re: Rubicon conditions reports
March 21, 2012, 10:30:12 pm
Anyone know how Rubicon is looking? I might be Peakward bound this weekend.

Don't count me out yet, sugar tits. May be able to pop along too.....


Don't you have an outstanding appointment with The Rasp?

robertostallioni

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#608 Re: Rubicon conditions reports
March 21, 2012, 10:35:33 pm
Why yes I do, don't I. :beer2:


Plattsy

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#609 Re: Rubicon conditions reports
March 21, 2012, 10:48:03 pm
 ;D
Sat or Sun for Rubicon Rob/Nik?

nik at work

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#610 Re: Rubicon conditions reports
March 22, 2012, 07:57:15 am
Dunno yet, it's a family trip so I may be limited to grit bouldering. Although getting Rob on the Rasp might be fun...

I'll keep ya' posted.

T_B

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#611 Re: Rubicon conditions reports
March 26, 2012, 08:50:52 am
Anyone down over the weekend and notice whether Caviar was dry? Ta.

Blakey

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#612 Re: Rubicon conditions reports
April 07, 2012, 10:31:46 pm
Upon visiting today, large pool under Rubicon again (very muddy and boggy), various wet holds on the traverse, some bouldering dry but very clammy and sweaty.
Wet patches along the crag including  a large wet streak to the left of Rubicon. Hoping to head here in the next few days so an update would be appreciated!

Kingy

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#613 Re: Rubicon conditions reports
April 14, 2012, 10:30:37 pm
Not flooded at lunchtime today but some seepage streaks were coming down Kudos and the warmup area was pretty wet (apart from the 3 travs bit). I did Kudos hard way, bigger splash and tail and miller's tale, The press crimp was in one of the streaks and was wet. That was b4 the rain this afternoon tho.

Ethan

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#614 Re: Rubicon conditions reports
April 14, 2012, 11:13:13 pm
Yeah, not really seen Kudos as bad as that before. Crazy amount of run-off.

highrepute

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#615 Re: Rubicon conditions reports
April 15, 2012, 10:33:44 am
We had a good climb despite the water, can clearly see the wet streaks. Snow melt making it worse than usual perhaps?


lagerstarfish

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#616 Re: Rubicon conditions reports
April 15, 2012, 11:11:14 am
love the 7A/6B grade for Bigger Prize - spot on

Andy B

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#617 Re: Rubicon conditions reports
April 15, 2012, 09:56:19 pm
Bigger prize was given 7a as it originally didn't use any of those holds above the break. It went from an undercut to little slopers over the bulge to the left of those used in the video. Why the grade didn't change when people started using the right hand holds I don't know.

dave

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#618 Re: Rubicon conditions reports
April 15, 2012, 11:11:45 pm
I wouldn't have recognised that problem in the video as bigger prize. different problem?

lagerstarfish

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#619 Re: Rubicon conditions reports
April 16, 2012, 07:09:02 am
Bigger prize was given 7a as it originally ...

I heard that it was because the first ascensionist was a grade hungry glory hunter  ;)

I suppose the easy thing that the rest of us have been doing must be Second Prize

Andy B

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#620 Re: Rubicon conditions reports
April 16, 2012, 12:15:50 pm
Bigger prize was given 7a as it originally ...

I heard that it was because the first ascensionist was a grade hungry glory hunter  ;)

That as well.


It was Bonjoy who originally cleaned the vegetation off the line. I wonder if it was stripped back further right after we did it.

Bl@ckhawkjac

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#621 Re: Rubicon conditions reports
April 18, 2012, 11:47:54 pm
Ah OK. There was a tree there on the right which has definitely been cut down this winter - it was still there in November.

This has opened up the wall some more. As such, there are a couple of logical lines up the space now and since the new guide simply says to the right of a Bigger Splash, this has probably led to the confusion...



Jaspersharpe

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#622 Re: Rubicon conditions reports
April 19, 2012, 01:30:18 pm
There was a tree there on the right which has definitely been cut down this winter

WHAT!!?? Which choad did that!?

Plattsy

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#623 Re: Rubicon conditions reports
April 19, 2012, 01:39:47 pm
Thought there was something different about the trees in highreputes video but put it down to camera angle/the time of year compared to when I climbed ABP last summer. The finger rail used for the right hand in the first move was clean last year, with the tree, and I'm pretty certain I was leaf dabbing my way through the move to the top.

dave

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#624 Re: Rubicon conditions reports
April 19, 2012, 01:44:44 pm
Does anyone know what the fishing clubs attitude to climbing choads with saws is? What with the current climate of access issues in this valley I'd hate for access to go tits up. Thats of course assuming its climbers doing the chopping.

 

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