[ian h]

two new problems at high rocks tonight

ian s has a added a sit start to kranked  - this is "spanked" 7a - 7a +

and i have added a new problem to the wall just to the right - "superfly" font 7b

[ian h]

a couple of pictures of superfly repeated by ian stronghill this evening

[ian h]

ian also added a variation boulder problem start to salad days , this takes the undercut with the left hand as oppose to the right , and fells quite independent to the usual method

[MrBlue]

a couple of pics from today , also posted on the bouldering pictures thread

the infidel project

wondered what was going up that the other day...some people are expressing concern about the use of the engravings though, especially as it seems to be limited to certain letters! tried to argue about the one that goes up the letters to the right of craig-y-blanco, but didn't get very far. what's the infidel project reckoned to go at?

some good stuff coming out this summer, high rocks is looking amazing now...!

[ian h]

]

wondered what was going up that the other day...some people are expressing concern about the use of the engravings though, especially as it seems to be limited to certain letters! tried to argue about the one that goes up the letters to the right of craig-y-blanco, but didn't get very far. what's the infidel project reckoned to go at?

some good stuff coming out this summer, high rocks is looking amazing now...!

hi matt

rekon the letters are pretty safe ,
a) the rock there is really hard
b) the letters are only being pulled really acurately
c) it is hardly likely to have tons of traffic as it is so hard to even get up to the letters let alone pull on them

+ it can hardly br worse than people standing all over them which is what happens when people climb infidel , which is much more frequently climbed

as for the grade of it, i have not got a clue , as i can get absouloutly nowhere on it, but my gues is that it is probably around font 7c

[ian h]

probably the hardest problem of the year gone up so far , ian stronhill climbed the wall 2 meters right of salad days this evening . no name or grade as yet

i will bung a pic or two up when i get the chance

[neil@canaryclimbs]

Hey man what grade you giving that superfly, did it earlier.

Also dyno right left of kinda lingers what grade is that, that was such a nice move.

Loads of good problems at the moment

The line left of superfly, is that a sitter then joing on the end of superfly, or does it go out left?

[ian h]

there are two lines there both going from the same sitstart, spanked goes left and superfly goes right

which sequence did you use for superfly as me and ian both do it very differently ?

not sure what grade the dyno is left of kinda lingers , nice move though

[neil@canaryclimbs]

there are two lines there both going from the same sitstart, spanked goes left and superfly goes right

which sequence did you use for superfly as me and ian both do it very differently ?

not sure what grade the dyno is left of kinda lingers , nice move though

Found spanked really easy F6b, Superfly F6c took a few goes but went up left hand in big jug, right hand into 2 finger pocket toe hook in break, and locked of to the pocket, dyno out to little hold on the face, heel hook out right then reach for top, super cool route

Also did a few more today, did one just left again from spanked F6a maybe, easy but nice, then left again on the left hand side of the slab, that was really nice of the shitty crimps Maybe F6c, then tried the one left again. Right of salad days, Is this Ians hard one, Couldnt work out the jump to crimps, as I did it static using the two pockets as interm. Then fell off tiered.

We also did magnetic again, but this time straight to sloppers right from the pocket no break for left hand, And  also nice Sitter to an arete behind and right of dynosor, that was cool. Had agodd day today, nine problems that I havnt done before and Spotted on or two potential lines for next week

Dont really know about the grades would bve nice to have some input see how far of the mark lol

Def some nice problems down there now

[ian h]

you really only think superfly is font 6c  :shock: we were thinking 7b

you do realise both spanked and superfly, both have sit starts  :?:

the problem left of spanked is one that we do as a warm up , but yeah about 6a is my guess

the prob on the left side of the slab is one of ian s problems , no name or grade , but feels about 7a to me


ians new problem may actually be pet cemetary but we not sure and still working it out , but sounds like you are in the right area

the problem arete behind dyno sore is the sharp arete font 6a/b from a sit

[ian h]

a few pic of tonight


 






i also did a new easy problem in the alcove / pit just right of bold finish , this goes at about font 6b, the real challenge still awaits to do it from the sit start , which will be seriously mega hard

[Fingers of a Martyr]

sourthern sandstone looks mint, just like font

[neil@canaryclimbs]

you really only think superfly is font 6c  :shock: we were thinking 7b

you do realise both spanked and superfly, both have sit starts  :?:

the problem left of spanked is one that we do as a warm up , but yeah about 6a is my guess

the prob on the left side of the slab is one of ian s problems , no name or grade , but feels about 7a to me


ians new problem may actually be pet cemetary but we not sure and still working it out , but sounds like you are in the right area



Yes both from sitters, didnt find it that hard atall, that picture above doing the last move the hard way, swing your foot out right to a heel hook and the move to the top is easy. I lthought it was easy cause my sort of route, big moves between big holds. Mind you I was having a good day everything felt so easy. but 7a tops in my opinion


The slab one was wierd, took about 10 goes fealing desperate then when I got it it felt reel easy, maybe right on 7a

If the last picture there is ians problem then yes i tried this sma way the picture shows

you around next week, be interesting to hook up


but for now im of the raven tor for the weekend do some real climbing lol

[ian h]

[ian h]

ian stronghill put up the hardest problem of the year and possibly the hardest problem at the crag yesterday !

The new line is unnamed at the moment but is a direct start to renaissance and is probably at least font 7c, possibly harder .

i will stick a couple of pictures up soon when i get the chance to get them off my camera

 :  :  :

[ian h]

a couple of pictures of ian stronghills new problem at high rocks

[a dense loner]

looks good, what's he called it, the red cross?

[ian h]

also Ches this evening put up a new roped route a couple of meters right of designer label , this goes up the central groove / pod line

i think he is offering a english tech 6b or 6c grade for it , not sure what name he is giving it ?  but will post back with further details and maybe a pic soon.

[Carnage]

Good on the lanky fucker!

[jimfish]

i am going to change this section of uk bouldering to the ian h gallery what do you think. good pics again dude keep on cranking speak soon

[ian h]

lol

are you still coming down tomorrow ?

[neil@canaryclimbs]

Hey Ians new prob is quality, best line of the year, 7c is fair

It was reapeted earlier today

problem left of it is nice aswell,

good effort

keep em coming

[ian h]

Hey Ians new prob is quality, best line of the year, 7c is fair

It was reapeted earlier today

problem left of it is nice aswell,

good effort

keep em coming

Good to here its repeated and grading is about right ! i had heard you were down with someone strong the other day, so i take it that they did it ?

problem left ? take it you mean the usual start of renaissance font 6c , or pammy 7a ?


anything else get done ?

[neil@canaryclimbs]

i thought the probem just left was about 6b

yes ians other problem right of salad days was repeated by a man in his trainers lol  

but not much done weather has been to hot, couple of things in the pipe line


what grade does the problem below second gerenation get

[ian h]

pet cemetary hardly involves presision footwork , but quite impressive anyway, any comments on the grade for that one ?

hope no fragile holds broke ? trainers and all that  :?