[neil@canaryclimbs]

no props me old son, happy climbing, maybe i will see you at the rocks sometime..............................

[ian h]

oh well if anyone interested i may try to make it down tomorrow afternoon if the rain holds off but the forecast does not look great

[Bonjoy]

[ian h]

blimey this thread has got a few replys from non sandstoners now

 :shock:

lol

[a dense loner]

well we've got enough to eat up here, can't begrudge you a few crumbs can we :wink:

[neil@canaryclimbs]

oh well if anyone interested i may try to make it down tomorrow afternoon if the rain holds off but the forecast does not look great

looking forward to getting down, but rained off as my group finished

bugger

You still gonna come down for the dyno comp next week

[ian h]

i am down for a late shift at my work, but will try and sort it this afternoon

will post on here to let you know

[ian h]

i didnt make it down either yesterday , but will be around as usual on tues and thurs

[jimfish]

ian are you still going down the rocks monday afternoon if the weather sort its life out

[james]

Some good problems, just a shame it is mostly wet or too hot, oh and nr london as well.  You guys must have eagle eyes to spot the holds I cleaned 20 or so meters right of pet cemetary, thanks for cleaning the break, its going to be hard but its always nice to have your own ongoing project.

[ian h]

Some good problems, just a shame it is mostly wet or too hot, oh and nr london as well.  You guys must have eagle eyes to spot the holds I cleaned 20 or so meters right of pet cemetary, thanks for cleaning the break, its going to be hard but its always nice to have your own ongoing project.

high rocks is actually drier now than it has been for years, due to the clean up progarm last winter, there is also a follow up action plan to keep the crag in shape so hopfully over the next few years the crag will continue to improve in condition. all we need now is a dry autumn and hopefully some of the harder projects will go down.


the line 20 meters right of pete cemetary? is this the 2 tiny edeges just out of reach above head hight - small pocket in center of wall up to the break? this looks seriously nails , what sort of grade would you guess this would go at ? no worries in cleaning the break , that type of lichen brushes off in seconds

[fontmaniac]

on monday i did possibly a new easy problem in High Rocks, left from Kraite Arete and just right from the hut. a sitter to a crack up to the second break. around font 6a, i think. Ian could you let me know if it has been done before. Cheers

[fontmaniac]

sorry the other way around, right from Kraite and just left from the hut, and i think it is a sitter to a 5c route that starts from the top of the hut

[ian h]

probably new , or at least unclaimed, to be honest cant really picture the rock you talk about, although i know people have done sit starts to kraite arete

[ian h]

couple of pics of Pet Cemetary yesterday

[unclesomebody]

two things;

1. I can't believe how dry and clean it looks! It's truly amazing from years gone by!  

2. I can't believe you are climbing SO high above a flashed pad.  That thing most definitely won't protect you from up there!  

[ian h]

two things;

1. I can't believe how dry and clean it looks! It's truly amazing from years gone by!  

2. I can't believe you are climbing SO high above a flashed pad.  That thing most definitely won't protect you from up there!  

yeah i think there allot of very happy sandstoners at the moment, hopefully the rock will continue to get in better and better condition over the next few years

[fontmaniac]

the problem is just right from the sit start to Kraite Arete.  there is a crack which you climb like an arete, there are some holds on the left from it which i also used

[fontmaniac]

the problem is just right from the sit start to Kraite Arete.  there is a crack which you climb like an arete, there are some holds on the left from it which i also used

[ian h]

two things;

1. I can't believe how dry and clean it looks! It's truly amazing from years gone by!  

2. I can't believe you are climbing SO high above a flashed pad.  That thing most definitely won't protect you from up there!  

so you got anyplans for a trip back down this way ?

[jimfish]

good pics ian cant belive some is slaging off my pad? i wish someone had of told me about about flashed before i borght that one . That one has been back a few time cause all the foam keeps breaking down inside the rest of it is well made but i do not think i would buy another one.

[ian h]

i actually think the flashed pads are ok, apart from that 1 incident with the top  layer it seems to be lasting ok , also you cant really fault there service as they replaced it straight away and has been ok since

[MrBlue]

tried magnetic yesterday when i was down there, nearly put my hip out! could hit the sloper every time but couldn't hang it.

had a bit of a 'mare on the hut boulder as well, those shiny new bolts are, well. the two bolts on the side with shattered & nemisis lifted when i was belaying someone, one lifted right out without too much effort, the other followed shortly. the ones on the actual boulder are rotating, they don't lift, but still. chris tullis knows but he's going on holiday so high rocks have put up notices.

think i might stick to *just* bouldering in future...

[ian h]

think i might stick to *just* bouldering in future


you know it makes sense.

how was you trying magnetic ? the sloper is much better if you keep bouncing your hand leftwards

[MrBlue]

how was you trying magnetic ? the sloper is much better if you keep bouncing your hand leftwards

left hand in the leftmost eye, right hand in the slot, then up to an oval side-pull. right foot into one of the 'sort-of-rounded-pockets', then rocking over and going up with right hand for the sloper. kept hitting the middle section, but couldn't hang it long enough to get in place.