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pointless stuff at brownstones (Read 1591 times)

andy_e

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pointless stuff at brownstones
March 29, 2005, 06:29:57 pm
today i did:
a sitstart to obscenity. same grade.
something between a deep crack on the right and a diagonal crack on the left, at a raise in the ground level on the same wall (to the right of) hanks wall. probably V3 6a
sorry, i just thought i'd tell you.

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#1 pointless stuff at brownstones
March 29, 2005, 06:54:31 pm
no problem andi_e, just don't do it again ;)

andy_e

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#2 pointless stuff at brownstones
March 31, 2005, 07:02:55 pm
sorry.

squeek

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#3 pointless stuff at brownstones
March 31, 2005, 07:06:42 pm
Are there any good V5-V8 problems that aren't in the guide on southlancsbouldering.tk ?

andy_e

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#4 pointless stuff at brownstones
March 31, 2005, 07:12:51 pm
a few either side. check for yuorsewlf! go on, its not that bad!

andy_e

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#5 pointless stuff at brownstones
March 31, 2005, 07:17:58 pm
yes there are

andy_e

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#6 pointless stuff at brownstones
March 31, 2005, 07:18:41 pm
yes there are

r-man

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#7 pointless stuff at brownstones
March 31, 2005, 07:44:02 pm
Quote
Are there any good V5-V8 problems that aren't in the guide on southlancsbouldering.tk ?


Not that I know of. Well, there are always more eliminates, but nothing really good that I know of. Have you done em all then?

If so, have you checked out Wilton 1 and 3? The overhanging arete in Wilton 3 is awesome and probably about V8. There are also some great problems in Wilton 1 - try the superlong traverse, or the direct start to Hacker on the Chimney buttress, or the direct to Black Mamba.

Quote
a few either side. check for yuorsewlf! go on, its not that bad!


What? You didn't read squeeks post did you? Ah well, nothing wrong with your enthusiasm...  :wink:

r-man

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#8 pointless stuff at brownstones
March 31, 2005, 08:37:20 pm
Quote
Are there any good V5-V8 problems that aren't in the guide on southlancsbouldering.tk ?


Hang on, I see what you mean...routes that are in the south lancs bible and thus not in the guide on the website?

I think I mentioned a couple in the guide, though only in passing:

On the Long back wall, from right to left (you may need a rope/plenty of mats)...

Rusty Wall (V8 6c) - three metres left of the painted number 15B is a faint crack and shallow pockets. (just left of Colt, V9)

Thunder (V8 6c) - the faint crack right of the crack right of the crack with the number 16b painted on.

Lifeline - (V7 6b) - the faint crack one metre left of the square hole and the number 17

Traverse - 6b - from the foot of the young pretender traverse right to Var (the one with the square hole). The full traverse is stupidly hard and still not climbed as far as I know.

The Young pretender (6b) - the overhanging corner. Rather high.

Apart from those, I think that's it, though I did once notice chalk on the sitstart to Boopers (V3/4 6a) which is the face left of Dezertion (V7 6b). Might be hard, might not. It's the obvious problem up near the start of  the top end, climbing past a horizontal break.

So which ones have you done so far then? And any opinions on the grades?

squeek

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#9 pointless stuff at brownstones
March 31, 2005, 10:07:44 pm
I'll take a rope next time I'm there with Jee and we'll have a go at them, then get back to you about what we think.  We only tried Hanks Wall and Pigswill of the hard lines last time, as I'd forgot my Lancs guidebook (which I can't really understand as it's all in UK tech grades).

Cheers for the info.

 

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