[gruff]

Hello all! After having a lovely day out I've been inspired to post this!

List a load of classic problems you would love to have done for the first time in 1 day, rules are:

- They're not "hard" problems i.e. no life long projects!

- It has to be logistically possible i.e. you can't have the Mandala, Karma and The Joker in one day!

- They must be quality problems!

I'd start with:

Fear of a Slopey Planet - V6 - The Pass (although close to becoming a life long project!)
G-spotting - V6 - Pacman Boulders
Pacman Arete - V5 - "         "
Karma Sutra - V5 -   "         "
The Minimum - V7 - The Pass
The Wavelength Groove - V4 - The Pass
Killer Weed - V5 - The Pass
Caseg Groove - V5 - Bethesda (ok, so I haven't even been to look at it but from what I've heard it sounds amazing!)
King of Drunks - V6 - The Pass
The Pinch - V7 - Sheep Pen Boulders

and of course!:

Red Button - V? - Tan y Grisiau

Rock and ROLL!

g

[dave]

We almost had a day like this the other weekend, between us in a day we did for the first time:

Jawbreaker V4
Fast Cars V5
Inc. Shaking Man (+ sitter) V3
Ysgo Crack V1
Floppy's Arete V0
Unmarked Grave V3
Brian Spray V5
Closer V2
Popcorn Party V7
The Shelf V1
Grapes of Raf V3
Tough Dogs V1
Ugly Women V3

Theres some serious quality in that lot.

But as a potential circuit i'd say, going south to north:

Marks Roof LH 7a
Pogles Wood 7a+
Bin laden's Cave 7a+
Walnut Traverse 6c
Trackside 7a
Strawberries 6b+
Gorilla Warfare 7a
Finger Distance 6b+ (E3)
Ape Drape 7a+
Beachball 7a
Conan The Librarian 6c

Then you could have an ice cream at the surprise view carpark to finish off with.

[Bubba]

Inc. Shaking Man (+ sitter) V3

How did you find the sit-start - I didn't try it but that first move looks brutal.

[dave]

How did you find the sit-start - I didn't try it but that first move looks brutal.

Fuck, i hoped i'd never have to tell this story...

basically at the end of the day in question i had the start wired, but fell off repeatedly (like 4-5 times) from the holds just before the top (yes on the easy bit) cos i was completely fucking knackered and unable to lock for the top, fingers uncurling off the holds etc etc. Bloody annoying cos the start i was getting every time and felt complete piss - c'est la vie. Cofe did it OK though, all i can say is "eat a dick".

Thats why i put "between us we did..." above cos i didn't strictly do the sitter, although i did, of you get my drift. I recon if Ben Moon can jump of Working Class and go "Fuck it, i'm not topping out" then its good enough for me.

[Bubba]

That's soooo annoying - harsh.

I recon if Ben Moon can jump of Working Class and go "Fuck it, i'm not topping out" then its good enough for me.

Well, if you're happy with that Dave.....

I always feel like I have to finish things off even if I blow the easy stuff......that said, if I ever latch the jug on West Side Story, I very much doubt I'll be doing those scary top moves.

[dave]

Yeah, technially i did the Sitting start of ISM without then doing ISM, if that makes sense. Still fucking anoyying though.

As for WSS, if i get up to the jug I'm damn well going to make an effort to top it out! Not that I'm desperate to tick the E-points or anything.....

[Bubba]

That WSS topout is getting way too high for a wuss like me - are those moves meant to be hard? I think Fatboy has topped out.....it'll probably never be relevant anyway, as WSS is one of those problems it takes some people years to do.

[Stu Littlefair]

My perfect circuit would be

(Early morning)
Crowfish and the psychotic wossname
Crescent Arete
The Storm
Archangel
Green Trav
Jerry's Trav

(Lunchtime)
Rock Attrocity
Lou Ferrino
Jerry's Roof
Wavelength

(Evening - low tide)
All the problems at Upton Roofs

Then over to Morwenstow for cream teas and sunset.

In fact, now I've had the idea...I might just try that one day.

[dave]

Lucky you've got your personal helicopter Stu......

[dobbin]

I'd love to have the NRG to do all in a day - have to try it this year:-

The snore
Powerband
StaminaBand
Ben's Roof
Weedkiller Traverse

Pubicon
The Press sit start

Crag X
Sean's Problem
The Thing

[dave]

Off at a tangent here, but does anyone else find Weedkiller Traverse bloody hard for "B7"? like compared with similar stuff like Hampers Hang, Green Traverse (short version), Extended Warefare, That Other B7 traverse at Stanage etc....

[Bubba]

I find all the limestone probs much harder than similarly graded stuff on grit, but I reckon that's mainly because I hardly ever climb on limestone these days.

[dobbin]

does anyone else find Weedkiller Traverse bloody hard for "B7"?

Yes, absolutely. Holds are all quiet big mind!

[dave]

And while we're on the subject, what about that Basher's probelm that comes straight out at "B6"? I don't think i've ever seen anyone do it, and seen lots of strong climbers fail on it.

[dobbin]

if thats the one where you gain two pocket things and then a small edge I've done it and it is about b6 - its a trick problem - you know the type.

I can't remember what the trick is though!

[dave]

Think hard!

[Norton Sharley]

Off at a tangent here, but does anyone else find Weedkiller Traverse bloody hard for "B7"?

Call me a controversial short arse, 'bout time I upset some people on here, but Weedkiller traverse is not B7.  B5 yes.  As for Green Traverse, I used to use that as my warm up and then not get up anything allegedly harder all day.  B3.  Cue stream of short arse not reaching holds, blah, blah, rants.

Stu L, glad to see you incorporated Archangel into your list of problems :!:

[Bubba]

As for Green Traverse, I used to use that as my warm up and then not get up anything allegedly harder all day.  B3.  

Bollocks. You used to just be strong once instead of the punter you now are  

[Doylo]

Weedkiller's a mistake at B7 (V6), more like v8 methinks. Popcorns party's still v6 i think, its even easier than it used to be cos the starts been filled in by rocks.

[Pantontino]

My personal dream circuit at Porth Ysgo would have to include the following:

Hogiau Llangefni V5
Ysbeidiau Heulog V4
Toys Right Hand V5/6
Higginson Scar Right Hand V6
Perrin's Crack V2
TISM sd V7/8
Foam Party V7
Unmarked Grave V3
Brian Spray V5
Tents At Midnight (The Eleven O'Clock Show) V6
Early Morning Wigwam V6
Fast Cars V5
Popcorn Party V5/6 (at the moment)
Jawbreaker V5
Away From The Numbers V6
Born In Gateshead Start (to Made In Heaven) V6
Trons Brown V4

I dare say I'd be in need of a pint or ten after that lot, or maybe one pint for each problem successfully completed! (17 in case you're wondering)

I'll come back later with one for the Pass and one for the Ogwen Valley, oh and one for the coastal limestone.

Cheers, Simon.

[Doylo]

Here's mine for Llandudno Limestone

Rockatrocity
Clever Beaver
Lickety Split
Whisky Bitch
Caveman
Rampant Rabbit
Weirdo
Pumpsville High

Whats the latest on the guide Pantonio?

[Pantontino]

Yes it's true, I finally nailed the bastard on Thursday. I was slapping wildly on the finish, even changed my sequence with feet popping and eyes bulging out of my skull. Fuck, I've never tried so hard in my life (well, not since the last time).
The crag is called Craig Y Platfform (name approved by Cymraeg technical consultant Iwan Arfon Jones, who is busy translating the text for the guide as we speak). Basically it can be found about 500 metres left of Dinas Mot and is best approached as for the the Pont Y Gromlech slabs: go over the A frame at the right of the crag and follow the sheep trail path along for 200 metres until you can cross the drystone wall over a large wedged boulder. Trend up left to reach a small crag and an obvious barrel shaped boulder.

Left to right (from the large boulder in the wall on the left) there is a V9/10(sd), a V7 (sd) , a V1 (sd), a V6, a V5, a V2, a V7 and several sds on the lower boulder.

My problem traverses into the steepest part of the lower boulder from the right and climbs out and up leftwards on shite slopers, slapping desperately to a finger edge rail and subsequently the top of the block above the diagonal flake feature.

I'm not sure about the grade, but it took me a lot longer than V9s like Rock Attrocity. (I realise it might not suit me and in all truth might be quite straightforward)

Anyway, it's steep, slopey, tricky and powerful as hell; what more recommendation do you need!

Cheers, Simon.

The guide is progressing quickly towards the finishing line.
I'm working on it right now instead of being out there partying like most of you bastards! Think of me while you dance and drink the night away.

[Bubba]

Yes it's true, I finally nailed the bastard on Thursday. I was slapping wildly on the finish, even changed my sequence with feet popping and eyes bulging out of my skull. Fuck, I've never tried so hard in my life (well, not since the last time).

Nice one Simon!

[Doylo]

Go and nab the 2nd ascent the owen, you need a new project! Hopefully the weather will play ball nxt weekend!

[mozzer]

You got a name for it yet Simon?