[account_inactive]

When I lived up in Sheff (many moons ago) I cleaned and climbed a line to the right of Mark's Roof at Gardoms.  It started on the back wall and met the holds on the lip with some side pull and heel action before whaling over the top on slopers.

Looking in the new guide I wondered if that is what is meant by Mark's direct?  

I sent an e-mail to the cragx people at the time cause they were talking about new problems etc  :roll: , but never heard anything back.

If this is new (cause it had loads of stuff to brush off when I did it)can someone let me know...................

[Suj]

Sheesh, that looks nails.

I would imagine your problem must be Mark' Roof Direct. There's not much room for another problem, or finish.

[Ru]

There are three natural exits from the central bit of the roof.

1: traverse all the way left to the flake
2: traverse a few moves left and lunge up the slopes: Marks Roof
3. Exit straight up and slightly right via bad slopes: the direct

I found several competing claims for all three so left a FA off, so sorry if you are the genuine FA.

[account_inactive]

Better described this properly:

Start to the right of the Marks Roof on shelf.  Move up right to side pull and then to hold just before lip.  Heel hook and then move through to bad slopers on the lip. Finish with the usual style aka marks roof

I did this around 2000 but had not been back until this last weekend when I saw some chalk on it!

[c.j.d.]

I checked this out on Sunday - it looks good.  From what I could gather, people we're starting the same as Marks Roof, and then breaking out left at the jug/lip to exit via the slopers for the V9/7c tick.  After closer inspection, I could see a long side pull for the right hand just out from the back of the cave, Dolphin Belly slap style, to form a true direct out of the cave - looks hard - is this what you've done?

[dave]

i thought the direct finish went slightly right/straight out from the MR lip jug?

[account_inactive]

I checked this out on Sunday - it looks good.  From what I could gather, people we're starting the same as Marks Roof, and then breaking out left at the jug/lip to exit via the slopers for the V9/7c tick.  After closer inspection, I could see a long side pull for the right hand just out from the back of the cave, Dolphin Belly slap style, to form a true direct out of the cave - looks hard - is this what you've done?

So it was you with the chalk on Sunday  :D   The start is not as bad as it looks really.  I used the side pull and then reached through to the flat holds under the lip.  This is why I was confused as it means that You don't actually use any holds on Mark's roof.  Once you have the flat holds you can heel hook to match and then pull through for glory(crux).

I would be suprised if it was worth more than V9 (7c), especially in new money  :wink:

[Bonjoy]

Better described this properly:

Start to the right of the Marks Roof on shelf.  Move up right to side pull and then to hold just before lip.  Heel hook and then move through to bad slopers on the lip. Finish with the usual style aka marks roof

 Is it just me or does that sound like an exact description of the standard Mark's roof (not the direct)? :roll:

[Scouse D]

The direct finishes Right-it doesn't share the same finish as Marks roof.
Dylan-it sounds like you've just done Marks roof :?  :?:

[account_inactive]

The difference being this starts near the right hand arete (where the fallen block is).  It uses side pulls on the arete and is further right of the lip than the big square cut jug on Mark's roof.

Honestly it is quite independent

[Bonjoy]

Does it finish up arete, super slopey slopes or the end section of M's R?

[dave]

what we need here is a guidebook.

[account_inactive]

Does it finish up arete, super slopey slopes or the end section of M's R?

Yes.  Is this Marks roof direct then?  So if it is it looks like I have just added an independent start.
Is :

Mark's roof: Start on shelf at back of roof and make long move via trianglar hold to jug on lip.  Traverse left and then up to slopers and nasty finish

Mark's roof direct: Start as mark's roof but traverse right to flat holds and then shitty slopers to top

mmmmmmmmmmmmmm

Does anyone have a picture of the roof?

[account_inactive]

sorry bonjoy meant to say super slopey slopes at the right hand edge of Mark's roof just missing the boulder that touches the roof

[Scouse D]

one off Stu's site

[account_inactive]

My thing doesn't use that jug that Ru is going for.  You can see the left hand flat edge in the far right of the photo.  It then tops out from there.

When was Mark's direct done?

[Ru]

This really shouldn't be that hard.

Mark's Roof starts from the shelf at the back, gets big sidepull with right, out to squarecut jug, trav left, up slopey scoop.

Mark's Roof Direct starts as above to square jug, goes direct/slightly right up the wall above, no traversing.

Dylans thing sounds like a different start, slightly right of Mark's Roof start, the only question is whether it exits direct as per Mark's roof Direct, or traverses left to finish as for Mark's Roof.

[a dense loner]

that's not even a question dylan's thing obviously goes the right hand finish of marks direct. though how can you call marks direct direct if it finishes rightwards? :roll:
don't worry dylan i've only been there once n i know what you're on about. the answer to your original question is it's a new prob

[Ru]

Finish with the usual style aka marks roof

It was this bit in Dylan's description that made me think it may have finished with the usual style, aka marks roof.

But it was also insinuated that it finished up the direct.

Hence the question.

[a dense loner]

that is a good point well made. was this done onsight in the rain as well. didn't see that bit, just read the later description.  this leads us back to

the question

[account_inactive]

hurrah!

I climbed a new thing
I climbed a new thing

[Pantontino]

The real question is: whatcha gonna call it?

Dylan's Roof might be tempting, but what if you do another roof first ascent - you've got to think these things through. Might be best to sleep on it, but that doesn't always work.

I did a new problem in a cave on the Ormes yesterday afty, and I'm at a loss (save for flicking through my record collection) for a name. Couldn't think of anything last night; woke up this morning - still, nothing. I've got writer's block. Maybe if I eat a load of cheese before I go to bed tonight it will come to me in a dream. I'll let you know if it works.

[dave]

what about "weapons of ass destruction"?

[petje]

Here the last move on mark's last october. (Crazy italian spotter behind me)

[account_inactive]

Here the last move on mark's last october. (Crazy italian spotter behind me)

Cheers for the Pic.  At least your spotter is pointing in the right direction!

You can see the holds on the right hand side.

I think you might be right Simon.  What to call it?  Seeing as the guide has already been printed it a bit late for that now I think   But I think Dylan's roof might be the easiest answer.  No where has that Brie gone............