[unclesomebody]

Just seen this on 8a.nu on Dave Grahams scorecard... this is following what he said abotu grades, and wanting to do a real 8C.  It must be hard!  :shock:

http://www.8a.nu/cgi-bin/scorecard/show.cgi?view=118&page=2

David Graham has done The story of 2 worlds, 8C in Cresciano. David has previously suggested retro downgrading of many boulders.

- "I changed some of the grades on my scorecard, because I thought they were incorrect. They weren’t consistent with my present views of how hard certain things seem. Didn’t make much sense to me. They were heavily influenced by what other climbers thought. I have posted what things feel like for me. Its my personal comparative analysis. My abstraction.

So, those new grades are just my grades, not the real grades, not the world grades. I don’t want to offend anyone. I just want to climb REALLY hard. Maybe 8C finally. Real 8C. Climbing is the most amazing thing. Its nice and abstract, and has plenty of room for development.”

His comment on The story of 2 worlds, 8C - "The new standard", says it all!

David regains his #2 position in the ranking at 11 250 points. Davis is also #2 in the route ranking. During the last three years he has been an superior leader in the combined ranking, even if he actually quite often register a lower grade than others!


addendum: since dobbin is going maybe he could check it out and report back on the problem!

[Fiend]

Gosh, even higher up than S* O'C*****r!

[Gad]

On the Grahams scorecard, two places are 'GB'. Is this our own fair Isle or somewhere else? Cos i aint heard of these problems but then again i don't get out of Stoke much!
"2003-10-20  Roses and Blue Jays   GB    easy 8b"
"2003-10-16  SomethingFromNothing   GB    8a"

[dave]

I think this new 8c mighrt be the full sitter to this OFF THE HOOK looking roof thing:

[unclesomebody]

it seems that it is a 6 move sit down extension to the Dagger.  This is definitely a monster problem.  But, it does raise another issue... that a lot of the hard problems in the world are long ones (apart from Gaskins' before anyone starts).  Wonder when it will see a repeat!

[dave]

i rate klem would be all over it like a bad rash.

[Björn]

GB - Great Barrington, US

[SA Chris]

So will bouldering go the same way as Aid climbing, with wholesale downgrading, and giving a "graham grade" instead of "new wave grade"?

[unclesomebody]

"I think this is the hardest bloc yet, and I think it can change the mal-progression we can see when we are seeing millions of 8B+ and 8C blocs climbed everywhere. Now its just about comparison. The big point is REVOLUTION, hell with the media, hell with 8a.nu (don't take that personally, it's a symbol of the people who abuse the concept from the page), hell with climbing big numbers to keep yourself sponsored, now, it's time to climb the REAL numbers, and really progress our sport. The Story of Two Worlds, proves that point."


Now that is fighting talk!

[webbo]

"I think this is the hardest bloc yet, and I think it can change the mal-progression we can see when we are seeing millions of 8B+ and 8C blocs climbed everywhere. Now its just about comparison. The big point is REVOLUTION, hell with the media, hell with 8a.nu (don't take that personally, it's a symbol of the people who abuse the concept from the page), hell with climbing big numbers to keep yourself sponsored, now, it's time to climb the REAL numbers, and really progress our sport. The Story of Two Worlds, proves that point."


Now that is fighting talk!

i always thought fighting talk was more"are you looking at my pint/bird". :wink:

[Paz]

GB - Great Barrington, US

OT.  Wow, the yanks named a state after Danny John Jules' character from Maid Marian and her Merry Men!  

[tatanka]

... I think Dave lost the sense of reality... smoked a little bit too much!

I just read the answer to its position published on FreakClimbing.com, and I totally agree.

What do you think about it?

I appreciated much more the position of Klem Loskot that is not grading anymore, and disappeared from the media coverage!

[a dense loner]

yep. so he finds things a bit easier, nice one. he does weigh nothing has thin fingers n is normal height with longish arms. i must say it's come as a shock that he finds probs easier than i do.

grades are amazing, i can't wait till sat nite in the pub

[Björn]

Dave has a lot to say about grades and what's been going on during the last few years, so this is definitely not a case of losing touch with reality. We'll probably publish more of what he's saying next week.

[account_inactive]

I wait with baited breath for news from 8a.poo  :roll:

[Fiend]

Finally got round to seeing the video of Dagger itself....great line and outrageous movement but the adjacent tree and boulder beneath detract...

Not sure, looking at the video, what a sitter would add in terms of quality. But would be interesting to see regardless.

[dobbin]

I can officially report that it looks very hard. Met big DG at cresc and he just says its out there, needless - we just looked on in amazement.