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Lower Montcliffe Topo (Read 5903 times)

r-man

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Lower Montcliffe Topo
January 17, 2005, 03:25:36 pm
Just done a topo for Lower Montcliffe Quarry

http://members.lycos.co.uk/southlancsbouldering/monty.pdf

It's a good post-rain venue, as it dries out faster than anything else in the area. Only lower grade stuff so far, though the dynos and low traverse on the slab look like they might be quite hard. Eliminate lines, but on quick-drying rock, which is a real bonus. Plus there's the obvious highball arete, but it's too damp most of the time to even try.

Will add to the topo when the weather dries out and problems in the rest of the quarry become climbable, but for now if anyone local has any opinions on the grades, they'd be welcome - they could be well out as I haven't been climbing properly for a few months.

Cheers


...A problem at Montcliffe. I may have got a bit carried away with photoshop... :oops:

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#1 Lower Montcliffe Topo
January 21, 2005, 05:50:15 pm
A bit carried away?
You done that yet? Or is it being swamped by mutated root mass?

r-man

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#2 Lower Montcliffe Topo
January 21, 2005, 07:40:13 pm
Quote
You done that yet? Or is it being swamped by mutated root mass?


Nah, it's been too wet. The roots are still dead, though I have nightmares of them coming for me while I sleep. They're that sort of root. :shock:

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#3 Re: Lower Montcliffe Topo
June 12, 2008, 12:03:43 am
How old is this thread?????
Today, Andi_e repeated his own Dinosaur Adventure 3D (font 6c+). Nik at work blasted up the second ascent of Indian Face Sit Start (font 6c).  And I did fuck all.  Fat git.


r-man

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#4 Re: Lower Montcliffe Topo
June 12, 2008, 12:53:45 am
Some reet gems here. Is that a proper sitter though...?  ;)

I did the sitter to this a month ago - I would have thought at least 7a to be more appropriate from bum on the floor. Burly moves on great holds. Didn't mention it as I've never considered this problem properly completed - the top needs cleaning off, which I've never got round to doing. Looks like Nik found a decent jug beneath the heather though.

Did this problem at the same time - Maid in Stone, 7a. Really good moves.  It's in the same bay as the two in your vid, further to the left. Powerful slapping with slabby footers. Topping out on the detached block struck me as a little foolhardy, hence the dismount. Sorry the heather obscures the view:



Also did the arete to the left and the back wall left of that, both from sitters at around 6b. The back wall is good if you eliminate the large jug.
« Last Edit: June 12, 2008, 01:03:35 am by r-man »

nik at work

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#5 Re: Lower Montcliffe Topo
June 12, 2008, 08:15:33 am
Yes it was a proper sit start. I guess video hands Andi was overcome by the beauty of the location and hence missed the start...
I wouldn't argue with 7a, it felt quite tricky and the start is pretty pwerful. I just had to balance how it felt against the fact that it felt minging and greasy and I was coughing and spluttering like a good 'un. So I knocked a bit off to allow for good conditions and a healthy climber. But maybe you're right, I am just amazing ;D


r-man

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#6 Re: Lower Montcliffe Topo
June 12, 2008, 10:52:31 am
I didn't doubt you for a second, honest guvnor.

It was hot when I did it too, but they aren't exactly the sort of holds that benefit hugely from good friction. All very chunky and ergonomic.

When did Baz do the sitter, anyone? Curious as to whether he beat me to it...


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#7 Re: Lower Montcliffe Topo
June 12, 2008, 01:42:54 pm
Not sure, but Sam, Baz and Jay have all done it and said it didn't feel much harder than the stand-up. This could have been any time since we visited that christmas eve...

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#8 Re: Lower Montcliffe Topo
June 12, 2008, 03:59:16 pm
Sam, Baz and Jay have all done it and said it didn't feel much harder than the stand-up.

Very odd. Am I climbing a different problem? The standup is easy. The sitter isn't the living end, but it's certainly much harder than the standup, unless I'm doing something very wrong.  :shrug:

If it's only 6c, why didn't you do it?  ;)

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#9 Re: Lower Montcliffe Topo
June 12, 2008, 05:24:21 pm
A whole host of reasons. Choose from:
  • midges
  • no skin
  • no enthusiasm
  • no energy
  • shoes were hurting feet

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#10 Re: Lower Montcliffe Topo
June 12, 2008, 07:53:50 pm
Very odd. Am I climbing a different problem?

Sit.  LH arete, RH blobby sidepull thing.  Pull on with LF on good edge, RF heel out right.  RH to undercut.  LH to good edge round left (ie the stand up).
Bish bash bosh.  Nik is going quite well at the moment so he may have underestimated things.  I found it hard to get the right heel on.  Height thing  :boohoo:

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#11 Re: Lower Montcliffe Topo
June 13, 2008, 12:09:28 pm
Sounds similiar to my beta, which was

rh obvious slopey hold. lh pinch arete as high as possible.
lf obvious smear. rf heel to right.
rh turn hold to sidepull.
step rf through to edge.
rh catch high undercling.
lf heel round arete.
lh slap up arete.
do standup.

Did you go back to the first bay? There are still one or two things to do. Dynos on the Horich Wall Slab. And Problem 13 (in the topo above) up the rounded wall. I've never got round to checking these out and finishing off that topo. But the Monty circuit is slowly fleshing out, which is great.

Has Bach (7a+) had a repeat? Or Horwich Haul (6b? - felt easy when I first did it, but I was flummoxed last time I tried).



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#12 Re: Lower Montcliffe Topo
June 13, 2008, 01:09:45 pm
No, only looked at those 2 problems [to be honest I think it was a little too esoteric for Nik :lol: ]

 

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