UKBouldering.com

filters and stuff (Read 7346 times)

bob

Offline
  • **
  • player
  • Posts: 75
  • Karma: +0/-0
filters and stuff
January 17, 2005, 12:52:50 am
i already have a polarising filter for livening up palid skies and iv been considering getting another filter or 3 but not sure what would give me best results. i was thinking of a coloured filter for black and white pics but as i mostly shoot colour film in overcast wales maybe something else would be  better.any advice regarding filter types and use would be much appreciated

cofe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5797
  • Karma: +187/-5
#1 filters and stuff
January 19, 2005, 11:05:21 am
a ton of good knowledge from gruff. don't actually use filters much/at all. you can achieve a lot in climbing shots by film choice and diligence. that said, i am saving up for a polarizer - the time spent inbetween understanding how it works rather than just whacking it on when the sun is out and the sky is almost blue.

i'm guessing you already own a tripod - one oif my new years resolutions is to carry it with me more, and get a decent one.

filters; i'd avoid colours unless you shoot b&w and say a grey grad is probably the bext next addition - although you'll need a filter holder etc. check out cokin's website for basic stuff.

word.

...but will johnny post...

Stu Littlefair

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1836
  • Karma: +283/-2
    • http://www.darkpeakimages.co.uk
#2 filters and stuff
January 19, 2005, 12:11:09 pm
Filters for climbing shots?  81-series warm-up filter is about it. Put it on your lens on overcast days and keep shooting. Filters are, in gereral, as much use as a chocolate fireguard for climbing.

However, you are going to be in the most beatiful locations in the UK on a daily basis, so do yourself a favour and get a tripod and a set of neutral, graduated density filters (or "grey-grads"). Dark at the top, and clear at the bottom they enable you to balance contrasy scenes, like most landscapes. Essential for good landscape photography, and occasionally useful in climbing if you want to balance the sky against rock in shade.

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29255
  • Karma: +632/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#3 filters and stuff
January 19, 2005, 12:27:06 pm
81 series filters are good, but I would go for an A rather than a B, which makes everyone look like they have fake tan on. Also if you are shooting prints, the lab will often kindly correct the colour change for you, making it a waste of time.

Polarisers are a bit of a double edged sword. They can make skies look bluer, and give a nice contrast to clouds, but can make skies look darker and colder too (personal opinion that) they also cut out sunlight reflections from water (hence polarising sunglasses being popular with fishermen as you can see into water easier) and reflection on leaves, plastic, etc.

They are most effective when you are shooting at 90 degrees to the rays of the sun, and become less effective as you move away from this plane.

cofe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5797
  • Karma: +187/-5
#4 filters and stuff
January 19, 2005, 01:36:27 pm
any decent lab (i.e. anyone apart from jessops.shit) will do no colour correction/sharpening/contrast if you ask them.

while i'm dissing jessops they'll often insert a colour cast to your prints similar to an 81C or stronger without asking, free of charge, when its in fact not there on your negs. they'll also trim your negs so they're almost square so its virtually fucking impossible for you to use them again. and they did all this after i stressed no post production and handed them 3 'professional' films. all because i wanted them within 24 hrs and they were the closest.

NEVER USE JESSOPS.

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29255
  • Karma: +632/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#5 filters and stuff
January 19, 2005, 01:50:05 pm
I try and avoid them but , sadly, up here I have little choice.

If anyone wnats to know more about filters, the new Practical Photography mag has a good article about them, if you have some spare time in WHS.

Obi-Wan is lost...

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3164
  • Karma: +138/-3
#6 filters and stuff
January 19, 2005, 11:23:30 pm
Personally I like some of the more tasteful and creative Cokin filters...my personal favorites are ....
209 Multi-Parallel


...397 Pre-Shaped frames
and  695 Soft Champagne...mmmmmm, always going to improve a quality photo that one... :wink:

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29255
  • Karma: +632/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#7 filters and stuff
January 20, 2005, 08:04:02 am
Some really tasteful ones there! As far as using filters in movies goes, Top Gun uses some nice pink and purple grads to get realistic sunset shots, very subtle.

bob

Offline
  • **
  • player
  • Posts: 75
  • Karma: +0/-0
#8 filters and stuff
January 20, 2005, 02:05:47 pm
cool thats alot of useful knowledge on the filter front. i might try with some different films maybe make the commitment to slide. any reccomendations regarding films i seem to use alot of fuji stuff someone told me the blues and greens are better?

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29255
  • Karma: +632/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#9 filters and stuff
January 20, 2005, 02:28:22 pm
I think once you have used slide film and seen the results, photos are always disappointing in comparison. I rarely go back, except when shooting somewhere that there's a lot of snow; while boaridng or mountaineering, as I never get exposure right there.

You need to be very accurate with metering when shooting slide, as it can't be corrected at the priniting stage. Don't be shy to bracket when you are starting out; better 1 decent shot in 3 than 36 wrongly exposed ones.

I am a big fan of Fuji film; used Velvia 50 for a while, but it is a bit slow for use in poor light conditions. I now use Provia 100 II whenever possible, nice saturation of most colours, but not garish. Astia is apparently best for true colour representation, although I can't really tell the difference.

cofe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5797
  • Karma: +187/-5
#10 filters and stuff
January 20, 2005, 02:34:22 pm
i'd avoid velvia 100 in evening light as it can turn lime green. weird. kodak's ektachromes and elite chromes offer plenty of bite, just don't go above iso200. astia is good for skin but i didn't think it handled greens particularly well. the thing is you'll end up trying a few and it will come down to personal preference. the glass in your lens will also have an effect on the end slide.

cofe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5797
  • Karma: +187/-5
#11 filters and stuff
January 20, 2005, 05:01:19 pm
quite like the effect in steven soderburgh films when its normally related to temperature or different environments.

Yossarian

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2359
  • Karma: +355/-5
#12 filters and stuff
January 24, 2005, 11:05:26 pm
Quote from: "SA Chris"
I think once you have used slide film and seen the results, photos are always disappointing in comparison. I rarely go back, except when shooting somewhere that there's a lot of snow; while boaridng or mountaineering, as I never get exposure right there.


i still think it's odd that people write off reversal film so often. granted, i use velvia and provia more than anything else, but there's so little lattitude with transparency film that loads of pictures i've taken would have worked better with negative film.  

it goes without saying that you need to get them hand printed, but then if you're getting cibachrome prints made from transparency then you'll be doing the same. or i suppose you could scan from transparency and print them out, but then you're losing out on half the dMax that you're precious Velvia enabled in the first place.

velvia and provia are lovely films, but when you're taking climbing pictures that are partly in bright sunlight and partly in shadow then there are a lot of other options. slides always look bright and extra colourful because when you're looking at them on a lightbox you're seeing transmitted light, not reflected light.  as soon as they become a print then they're something quite different...

cofe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5797
  • Karma: +187/-5
#13 filters and stuff
January 26, 2005, 12:12:05 pm
does anyone else not notice these 'sub'topics' cos of small orangey bit?

never had any results i liked from any negative film; the majority of pro films are optimised for skin tones for portrait work and give ghastly results for climbing and landscape type stuff. such films (Fuji NPH and NPS, Portra NC) are great for what they're intended for and i use the fuji ones pretty regularly. only had reasonable results in climbing etc from reala 100 but the extra exposure latitude i find doesn't add an extra dimension.

transparency film just offers images the edge, and printed right, a well exposed slide doesn't lose that much through scanning and printing from the image on the lightbox.

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29255
  • Karma: +632/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#14 filters and stuff
January 26, 2005, 12:36:42 pm
Quote from: "Yossarian"
i still think it's odd that people write off reversal film so often. granted, i use velvia and provia more than anything else, but there's so little lattitude with transparency film that loads of pictures i've taken would have worked better with negative film.  

it goes without saying that you need to get them hand printed, but then if you're getting cibachrome prints made from transparency then you'll be doing the same. or i suppose you could scan from transparency and print them out, but then you're losing out on half the dMax that you're precious Velvia enabled in the first place.

velvia and provia are lovely films, but when you're taking climbing pictures that are partly in bright sunlight and partly in shadow then there are a lot of other options. slides always look bright and extra colourful because when you're looking at them on a lightbox you're seeing transmitted light, not reflected light.  as soon as they become a print then they're something quite different...


True, but it's kind of hard to carry 3 bodies around and swap and change as conditions dictate. I usually plug for 100 ASA film for my outdoor shots, the majority of which are climbing/landscape anyway, with the occasional nature shots. I usually look at my slides with a lightbox or viewer and they look good that way, so it keeps me happy, regardless of whether they become different when printed. I get ones I want to use for further purposes scanned, and live with the final result, which is usually better than what i would get out of a print.

In my opinion anyway.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal