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Utah Bouldering (Read 4661 times)

MB

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Utah Bouldering
January 16, 2005, 02:07:18 pm
From photos and Black Lung Utah looks pretty good. Seems like there is a lot of variety.
Has anyone been? Also i wouldnt want to melt into a puddle, so when is a good time of year to go?

a dense loner

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#1 Utah Bouldering
January 16, 2005, 06:53:04 pm
i went in october, november can be a bit hairy cos you have to put tyre chains on to get to LCC. climbing is really good with LCC, joe's n ibex being completely different, prob moab as well but we didn't climb there. summer months are out of the question apparently.

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#2 Utah Bouldering
January 17, 2005, 11:59:34 am
Get yourself to Joe's Valley. Didn't spend much time there but i certainly rate it. There is loads to do and the rock is very smooth sandstone so your tips last ages. Has a bit of everything in terms of style and grades. Theres also lots of unclimbed boulders to discover.

I think the best time to go is in autumn or spring although some of the areas are at a higher elevation so it stays cool and climbable a bit longer either side of the summer than most other places. I was there in early Sept, and although it was a very hot 30+ degrees down on the plateau, up in Joe's itself it was a crisp 10 or so degrees c in the mornings and the tempearture stayed below a pleasant 25 c most of the day.

There is ample free camping around the place (some near an area called Buoux) but the official National Forest campground there is quite good. It was about $8USD and sits right on the Resevoir. We had no problems finding a site but you can book ahead to be safe.

Closest provisions are in a town called Orangeville but it is quite small and there's not much aside from a service station / mini-mart. Price and Huttington (about a 30-45 minute drive) have a bit more to offer.

Utah is an interesting place and there are a few subtle differences you will notice. The people are nice enough but there is definitely a wack mormon-vibe happening. For a start you just can't walk into a bar and order a pint. You have to 'join' up with a licenced 'private club' beacuse it is technically illegal to serve alcohol. A lot of places are also shut on Sundays and close earlier than in other states.

dave

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#3 Utah Bouldering
January 17, 2005, 12:05:14 pm
"oh great, mormons"


DrWong

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#4 Utah Bouldering
January 17, 2005, 05:42:17 pm
yep - just the place for some of you hard-drinking hard-partying sheffield boys to go to pick up some innocent amish chicks. :)

SA Chris

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#5 Utah Bouldering
January 18, 2005, 09:04:58 am
The stuff at Big Bend, near Moab looks pretty good too, but get's very hot, even in late spring. I thought Little Cottonwood was ok, basically generic granite bouldering and disappointing compared to Bishop. Also LCC has one of the highest snowfalls in the US, so the boulders are covered from November until spring. Ibex is great, but not a whole load to do there, unless you do some routes as well. Also gets HOT and snakey!

Joe's is ace, but can get cold and wet for a few days at a time as it is in the eastern side of the Wasatch Mountains. Triassic is a good alternative if weather at Joe's is minging, as it is lower and dryer. I stuch some phots of Triassic on here, but can't find them at the moment. If you fancy some sightseeing, Zion and Capitol Reef National Parks aren't too far away.

Doylo

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#6 Utah Bouldering
January 20, 2005, 12:14:08 pm
the rock at ibex and joe's is lurvely

Paz

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#7 Utah Bouldering
January 20, 2005, 02:36:38 pm
Where was that place were those photo's taken, of a lass climbing a really long roof crack in a cave.  I know this is probably a kind of "Disney land?  THat's in America isn't it" question but fuck it.

Sloper

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#8 Utah Bouldering
January 20, 2005, 02:38:42 pm
Bouldering on the granite around colorado springs is also superb!

SA Chris

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#9 Utah Bouldering
January 20, 2005, 03:45:14 pm
I know the one you mean. It's Dean Potter's partner, and I think the roof crack is in a bouldering cavenear Moab. I have a Climber with the article in it lying around home somewhere.

dave

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SA Chris

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#11 Utah Bouldering
January 20, 2005, 04:36:19 pm
Cheers dave, saved the bother. That sounds like a fun problem to do  :shock:

 

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