[ferret]

climbed the wall between lefthand man and righthand man/dick williams, not sure if its bin done before but i think not.
the problem starts low on the shelf and takes the pocket of lefthand man with the right and goes direct up the wall via a bad pinch. although close to lhm the climbing is completely independant once the pocket is taken. good problem somewhere in the 7c+ - 8a region.

[Johnny Brown]

From new guide script:

14: Left Hand Man (Left Hand) 7b+
Sit start on the shelf and climb the wall direct on small slopey features, including the better holds on the arête. A brilliant problem.

15: Left Hand Man 7c+
The original went straight up the wall without the holds on the arête to the left from a sit start on the shelf.
(Ian Fitzpatrick)

There is also a problem that starts as for left hand and finishes as for Dick Williams, between which and the above practically all the options are covered. So fraid it looks like you repeated the original left-hand man.
Good tick tho, even in Ru's harsh money it's at least a proper 7c+...

[Ru]

That bit of script has changed (cos it was wrong):

Left Hand Man was first done using the holds on the arete, but via a hard sequence at 7c+. What I called Left Hand Man (Left Hand) in the draft that Johnny saw is in fact Left Hand Man, but there's an easier sequence at 7b+, which is where I got confused initially. Ian Fitz didn't do the wall direct up the middle, which as far as I could tell hadn't been done.

However, whilst guide checking I did all the problems on this wall - including direct up the middle using that bad pinch thing. I wasn't going to claim this as a seperate problem, but in the end I put it in for completeness as it is an obvious line/eliminate. I called this Left Hand Man Direct, but it's no harder than the original sequence of Left Hand Man. I gave it 7c+ in the guide cos I thought I'd get told off if I didn't.

There's another Ian Fitz problem up the wall as well that starts up Dick Williams and moves diagonally left up the face to finish at the same pocket as Left Hand Man - this is Middle Man, 7c.

If this doesn't make sense wait a week and see the topo when the guide is out (which incidentally can now be pre-ordered from
 www.v-graphics.co.uk with a special offer price of £18. That's nearly two whole pounds off!)

[hongkongstuey]

which incidentally can now be pre-ordered from
 www.v-graphics.co.uk with a special offer price of £18. That's nearly two whole pounds off!)

it looks awesome Ru - can't wait to get my grubby mits on a copy, although that will necesitate a trip back to the UK to actually use it....

[Johnny Brown]

whilst guide checking I did all the problems on this wall - including direct up the middle using that bad pinch thing. I wasn't going to claim this as a seperate problem

I'm pretty sure this sequence had been done previously too. It was certainly how Zaff was trying it when I saw him prior to Ian doing the left-hand version. That was a good few years ago and I'm pretty sure he did it but didn't claim it as Ian's was thought to be the same...

[Ru]

No, I spoke to Zaff and Ian quite a bit about what they had done there and niether had done the wall direct. Ian bagged it cos he thought the quality/time needed ratio wouldn't justify it (given that it's basically an eliminate on LHM). So it may well have been done before, but not by anyone I spoke to.

[Johnny Brown]

Ah good effort then. And looks like Ferret bagged the second ascent....

[ferret]

sounds about right, was with fitz when he did lefthand man with that horrible go again and again and again sequence, much easier with use of all the available holds. 7c+ sounds sbout right for the problem i did tho i can imagine it wud be hard in conditons were not good. altho a bit squeezed in its a good prob especially for those strong lads who seem to have ticked the entire peak!