[Falling Down]

Lucky FD gets another weekend in California, this time in San Fran & the Salinas Valley.  I have a weekend off over the 21st Jan and was wondering whether any of the bouldering spots (Castle Rock etc.) are worth the drive or whether anyone has explored the central coast Morro Bay to Monterey..

I'm going to take my (surf)board as Monterey Bay has loads of classic setups, but I'm super psyched for climbing at mo.

[SA Chris]

Ben, there's a new bouldering guide to the Santa Barbara area came out recently, buggered if I can remember the name. Might be published by Wolverine, Dave Pegg's crowd. Looks reet good. Castle Rock looks like a mini font, not sure if you think thats a good or bad thing. Check out the West Coast Pimp vid/DVD if you know anyone who has a copy.

[SA Chris]

The Guide is Ocean 11; http://www.rei.com/product/47858008.htm

[Falling Down]

The Guide is Ocean 11; http://www.rei.com/product/47858008.htm

Thanks Chris, it looks good, although it's a bit too far South for this trip, perhaps one for when I'm next in Bakersfield/LA.  Castle Rock looks nice, but I gather it's a bit weather depenendent with it being Sandstone and close to the coast 'n all that...

[SA Chris]

I know some folk who work at a climbing gym in Sebastopol, just north of SF, and they say Casle Rock is pretty good unless it is actually rainig. I know there is some stuff further up north, Micke'y Beach etc. If you go to a climbing shop, have a look at "Rock and Road" the big climbing bible, to see if there's anything else.

[Percy B]

Areas in Oceans 11 guide are only a short drive south from San Fran (by US standards! In reality about 2 hours), and it will certainly take longer to get there from LA. Very nice areas around Santa Barbara - definately make the effort if you're in the area. A lot of the boulders are high up in the mountains so are bueno to climb on from late spring onwards - could be a bit snowy this time of year! And close proximity to the beach if you fancy getting your toes wet in the Pacific..... :

[DrWong]

There are a few bouldering / climbing areas on the way up to Monterey and a good bet if you want to do some climbing but alas quite spread out. It's nice just to take a drive around there though, stopping in at some of the bays and beaches and Areas like Goat Rock, especially if you plan on squeezing in a surf as well.

Castle rock offers a few awesome problems but there really isn't a lot there. There is a bit of top-roping / soloing that will also keep you occupied but the Area is quite small and there aren't that many boulders. It really does look like font and when you start climbing it really does feel like the boulder fairy has magically transported you to the forest! (Anyone notice any blocs missing from cuvier?). The rock is what you would expect from font sandstone (dries quickly) but the area is quite sheltered so not much wind.

Dr topo: www.drtopo.com has a good PDF guide for download.

The drive down to Castle Rock is about an hour or so from SF quicker if you take the freeway past stanford and cut back in. The coast road is more scenic but takes a bit longer.

If you find yourself stuck in SF there are a few little bouldering / climbing spots closer to the city. Nothing jaw-dropping but worth a look if you a keen to get on some rock. Check them out at:

http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/ba/

The better spots are:

Turtle Rock - about 30mins north in Marin is a massive free standing boulder on top of a big hill with great views of the bay. Has a few good lines and lots of traverses. There is a short steep section and a more vertical semi-highball wall. The rock is volcanic schist. Crimps and flat edges. Area is very exposed and can be quite windy. Worth it for the view.

Indian Rock in Berkeley - about 15-20 minute drive from downtown can also be accessed via the BART train plus walk. Has a few slightly overhanging to slab problems. I recall that it is a kind of granite but feels more like limestone. There is a short wall with loads of steeper eliminates and a top-rope wall. It's located in the heart of suburbia and sheltered. If you go to any of the many outdoor shops in Berkely thay can give you directions or a map of the local climbing areas.

If you find yourself bored at night theres always Mission Cliffs in SF and Berkeley Ironworks, both good gyms to keep up the training.

[SA Chris]

I recall that it is a kind of granite but feels more like limestone. There is a short wall with loads of steeper eliminates and a top-rope wall.

What, there are eliminates, at Berkley?

[Falling Down]

There are a few bouldering / climbing areas on the way up to Monterey .

Thanks for all that info Dr W.. really much appreciated... I've got my eye on the WAMs for the swell forecast and t'other on the weather.. rock boots or surfboard.. Daddy or Chips...

[Falling Down]

Percy and Dr W - Many thanks for the info, it's greatly appreciated.

I'm now in Bakersfield on Friday 21st so I can head West to the coast / Santa B from there and then head up to SF over the weekend.

Cheers all hope the UK stay's cool 'n crispy

[fingermouse]

This has been a great thread for me.  I moved out to San Francisco a year ago & have been trying to find decent areas to climb.  I've not seen all the places mentioned but my favourite, by far, is Castle Rock.  It's a little small but it's loads bigger than any of the other areas.

Stinson Beach is nice.  Especially on a sunny day (though the holds can get greasy then).  

I went to Turtle rock last night.  sharp rock, very limited number of problems.  Great view though.

Unfortunately, to get to any extensive climbing areas you have to travel for a good 3 hours.  Yosemite is fantastic & Tahoe looks great.  I was there last weekend.  There's rock everywhere, but I couldn't get on it (8 foot of snow!), I did get to snowboard for the first time though!  Fantastic.

[Falling Down]

Well, thanks to all for some great advice.  I had a great weekend...

Drove up from Bakershfield on Friday evening and stayed in Santa Cruz for the weekend which was really fun.  I sp*nked $200 on a bundle of CD's that I've been after for ages, saw some local punk bands on Friday and Kool Keith w/ Cut Master Kurt on Saturday and got out climbing for two days in really great weather so it was all good.

Castle Rock was great, plenty to keep me occupied for a couple of days and I didn't visit Indian Rock or the other venues close by.  The drive up from Santa Cruz is beautiful through these great Redwood forests and there's a nice small town called Boulder Creek that has all these organic shops to buy some (unusual for the USA) healthy food.

On Saturday I hooked up with two girls from SF and an Aussie guy (Dave or Dan?) who'd been in Bishop with Ben H, James P, Simon etc. so if you read this he say's "hi".  

The weather was nice, warm enough to climb in T-Shirts but still cool enough to stick the slopers.  It is just like a mini Font in California so it's all 'nice.... Niice..... NICE...' instead of 'alez... Alez.... ALEZ' plus it's a bit on the chalky side, but the climbing is similar.  I did a bunch of the nice easier problems and struggled across The Beak traverse (V3?), did The Slap (V5 - easy for a grit climber) and had numerous attempts at The Hueco Wall (V5).  Did a great Font style problem called The Spoon which has a real grovelly/mantel finish.

Sunday I slept properly for the first time in a week and then had a late breakfast, checked out of the motel and after doing some shopping for the family drove back up to Castle Rock which was loads quieter than on the Saturday.  I climbed with this guy Davey who lived in Sheffield for a few years in the 90's who said to say hello to Toby at The Edge.... tried Heuco Wall numerous times again without success and went to try this great grit style problem called Duct Tape which I nearly 'sent' but was tired and had to split to meet colleagues in Oakland.

Thanks all for the info, much appreciated.

Back home tomorrow night...

[fingermouse]

Those Castle Rock problems are ace.  The Slap is nice but way easier than Hueco Wall (most people think this is V6) and I've still not done Duct Tape (that is the hard arete problem close to The Spoon, right?)