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[Peak, Northumberland, Scotland] [various][lots of new probs and a few routes] (Read 2830 times)

Bonjoy

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Again I've been crap at writing up new things and ended up with a huge backlog. So here's a big splurge post with everything from the past two or three years! I was also going to detail a new little crag we found in font, but kind of lost the will to live, so that will have to wait, or I'll put on bleau.info.
Some of these are quite old, so may be well known about already. Some are already documented on UKC and/or Instagram.

Blackwell Dale
Mr Uippy - 7c
On the cave above Sean Roof is another cave, Hunky Roof. Start up There's Method in my Madness, then trend left to a belay around the arete. FA Spike Fullwood

Note: I recleaned There’s Method in my Madness when scoping out Mr Uippy. There were a couple of very loose and badly glued jugs. It looked like the route would be better without them so I removed (they looked like they were about to fall off anyway). The climbing looks significantly harder now and ironically is probably right at the 7b+ grade having previously been very overgraded. Spike reclimbed suggested 7b+.

Chee Tor
Stravinsky - **8a
An extension to Igor 7c (which is excellent in its own right). From the jug at the end of the hard climbing on Igor head up and left to finish at the Ogre belay. Top notch sustained technical climbing on great rock.

Squirrel Buttress
Squ B Do - 7A+
On the right side of the white bulge left of the Candy Kaned block. Start matched on the sidepull jug, roll over left hand to the crimp and do a tenuous slap out right, finish at the break above.

Scrappy Do – 7A
The furthest right sit start on the white bulge, ending high stood on the finish hold of Sq B Do.

Squirrel’s Undercuts – 6B+
The obvious easier line on the left side of the white bulge. Sit start and trend left on undercuts then up and right to finish at a jug.


Dirtlow Rake

Dirt Diggler - 7A+
The left arete of the steepness left of From Dirt, from a low sit start.

Dirty Protest – 7A
The groove left of From Dirt starting at the back, until it’s possible span left to finish over the lip.

* Mud Wrestling – 7B+
Starting just right of From Dirt, climb the roof weirdness rightwards into a handing cave. Finish matched on a jug up in the cave.

Drowning My Sorrows RH – 7B+
Having sorted out the landing on Drowning My Sorrows in Dirt (unique and surely one of the best at the grade on UK limestone), I also added a worthwhile variant which climbs the arete from sitting, mostly on its rhs, without the crack out left.

Windy Knoll cave

Under the Weather – 7C
Eliminate direct start to Twisting in the Wind, joining it at the handjam pod. Everything is in for hands and feet on the start, except for anything right of the crack and the narrow bits of the crack itself. Standard TiTW beta resumes once the handjam pod is gained.

Wimberry
Village Green RHS – 7A
It’s not clear from the guide which side Johnny’s original route goes up. I’ve climbed on both sides now (LHS from a SS at 7B). Both are good and very different in style. This side is vert and barny. The other side is steep and slappy.

Baslow – Walnut Boulders
Walnut Lip – 7A+
On the back of the boulder with The Walnut traverse on it. Sit start and climb a left trending lip to top out once around the left arete.

Wharncliffe
Just up and right of the Grunne Holle block is a free standing block with a smooth slabby right side. The next four problems are on this.

Chungus Among Us – 5
The left arete of the slab.
Jim did a line up the slab but not sure of grade or foot rules.

Kibbles for Chibbles - 6C+
The left arete of the slab on its steep left side from sitting. No footblocks.

Cloobus Minigrab - 6B+
The next arete left on its right side. No footblocks.

Puddington Silvershoe  - 6B
The same arete on its left side from a sit start.

30m or so down and left of Platitude Inspector is a highball pinnacle:

* Chagus Goes to Vegas – 6C
Climb the front of the tower via the thin flake crack. No back right arete. FA Spike Fullwood

20m left again:

Amadabadoo - 5+
Nice short wall with a big move off a jug, morpho. FA Spike Fullwood

Amadabadoo SS - 7A+
Sit start on the left arete. FA Jim Pope

Very Active Badgers - 7A
The left arete of Amadabadoo wall from a sit start. Nice pinch. FA Jim Pope

Below Sneaky Little Fingers in the Outlook arete are two boulders with a few old problems on them which had become dirty and overgrown. These are now cleaned up and gardened and some extra bits added. Well worth the detour now:

Left Arete – 6A
The short steep arete left of Hard Start has a big pocket. Climb from a sit start.

Hard Start  - 7A+
From a sitting start, climb the bulging face with a hard first move, then a move rightward on slopers. An old prob originally done with the help of a huge span and the right arete, but now climbed without the arete at the same grade.

Hard Slaps - 6C
The bulging right arete of Hard Start from a sit start.

Pockets SS - 7A
The sit moves force a different sequence on the stander.

Warrior Specimen – 7A
The right arete of Pockets on its right side from a sit start. FA Spike Fullwood

40m down and right of Outlook Roof is a slanty wedge block prow:

Sploogus -7B
Climb the prow from a low sitter (arete pinch and small undercut). Topout direct round the lip. A copout LH finish is 7A and a very cool invert/feet first pull on version is also 7B (Splaygus – FA Ethan Maxfield)

On the Kobe block:

* Belly of the Beef - 6C
Sit start on the left below Kobe. Follow a line of holds right to finish up Kobe Arete (which now has a lower but better and landing and has settled at 6B+).

* Porcini Roof – 7B
53.4644759, -1.5435312 A chunky roof next to a MTB descent just below the main path. In the area between Kobe and Bass Rock. Climb the middle of the roof from the break at the back right. Topout in the middle of the roof.

* Professional Caterpillar - 7A+
50 or so right of the Kobe block is a block with a bit low roof on its left side. Sit start at the back of the roof, without using any blocks below the roof gain the lip and go left to finish up the blunt arete.

Just below Wharnside Story is a small slab block:

Clinch - 6A+
The right arete of the slab block from a sit start.

50m left of WSS is a wall:

Another Wharnwall - 6A
Climb the wall without the ledge out right.

100m left of WSS is a nice overhanging wall with a capping block roof:

* What’s Uippin’? - 7A
Climb the wall and roof from a sit start. Excellent. FA Doug Egdell
NB: This is the grade Doug and Spike came up with, it felt a lot harder to me and I still haven’t managed the climb after lots of tries. Could be anything up to 7C or I could just be being crap.

Bobson Dugnutt – 6A+
The left arete of What’s Uippin’? from a sit start.

75m or so left again is a low slung roof/lip:

Lippopotamus - 7A
Sit start on a good pod hold on the far right then follow the lip left to top out on the far left of the block. Very nice example of the genre.

Swingeing Cuts – 7A+
A sit start to Jorge Easy. Would make a good sitter to Jorge (I’d guess at 7C).

The Arete SS – 6C
Just left of the Bear Pit. The decent prowy arete from a sit start.



Rivelin

One Move Ponder SS - 7A
Sit start to Carlos’s problem just under Master Kush

Peccavi SS - 7A+
A sit start to the obscure E4 left arete of the Moolah wall. A roofy prow into a slightly bold arete climbed on its left side. Escape left via the break.

* Just Enough - 7A+
The route/highball Too Much links two cracks at the right end of the crag. Just Enough climbs the right of these cracks then continues direct where the crack peters out by a slap between slots.

*Edgelord – 6B+
On the fairly newly opened for access far RH end of the crag. Smeary sharp left arete of a very smooth slab.

Keep it Lemon - 6C
Sit start OHing fridge hug 50m right of Edgelord. No sideblock for foot at the start.

Roaches Very Far Skyline
Above the usual bouldering here is a roof with soft rock which is traditionally left undescribed to prevent erosion. However, the back side of this has a wall in a gully which has very good rock. These problems are on this.

Sky Wall - 6B+
Slightly hemmed in wall from a sit start.

Behind the Sky – 7A+
Left arete of the wall from sitting

Flash Bottom Rocks
* Mooner - 7A
On the south facing side of the highest rock on the crag. Climb the middle of the wall trending left at the top.

Butthole Surfer – 5
On the next rock left of Mooner. Climb an easy slab then tackle the highball roof above via the juggy hole. About E1 5b/c.

Gibb Tor
* Left Fin Sitter – 7B
Sit start to Left Fin. The pull on position is the same as Fin Sitter.

5c Wall Sitter – 7A
Good sit start to this underrated prob, just right of The Fink.

Barry Gibb – 6B+
The lower block of Gibbering Wreck is a roof. Lowball but immaculate rock. Sit start on the left, work right and then exit up a crack. The extended trav finish is 6C+

Wyming Brook – Esoteric Slab
Approx location - 53.372833, -1.590722
* Barry Cheesecake - 7A+
The left arete of Esoteric Slab forms a steep fridgy prow on its left side. This had been climbed already prior to my ascent, but I did a fair bit of digging to open it up, extend the start and allow both aretes to be used, so it’s a lot different to how it was now. A great fridge hug problem in a similar vein to The Ultimate Gritstone Experience, but longer. Sit start in the low break and climb the prow. Top out either direct (harder) or by swinging round onto the right side of the arete (easier but a bit spicy).

* New Squeeze - 7B+
An eliminate on Barry Cheesecake but excellent nonetheless. From the low break climb the prow without use of the left/back arete.

Gardom’s Edge
* Jackalope Left - 7A+
Arguably contrived in concept but feels independent in the execution. Starting matched in the crack climb the feature on its left side with the help of a crescent finger rail out left. Great climbing and with a better landing than the standard line.

No Ledge is Power - 7A
The left arete of the English Voodoo block, without the ledge. FA John Cofield

Two Headed Boy SS - 6C+
Fairly obvious sit start adds a bit. FA Spike Fullwood

Butternut Sasquatch - 6B
50m or so left of English Voodoo at a similar level is a roofy prow hemmed in somewhat by a dead oak tree, hug up this from low.

Chuggy No-no – *E4 6b
Climb the middle of the wall between Nymph’s Arete and Oread, extending the boulder problem Nymph’s Wall 6A+ with some well protected bouldery moves. FA Spike Fullwood

Stanton Moor
Bulbasaur – 7B
The right side of the Snorlax block (30m right of Spare Rib). No crack or ledge.

Gingervitis - 7A+
Fairly random eliminate. On the Chicken Ginger block, sit start on opposing sidepulls (as for Poor Man’s Olive) and climb rightwards staying under the lip until around the arete. Would make a hard and worthwhile problem if started two moves down and left.

You Dig? – 6A+
On the bracken slope about 150m right of the Spare Rib area is a slab boulder, climb the right arete of this from a sit start.

** Bank Manager Low - 7C
At Stanton Hillcar. After a fallen tree created a huge crater at the base of the original problem I dug and regraded the landing to allow the problem to be reclimbed from a sit start, adding some good and hard moves.
Me and Marc B repeated Jamie’s 7A up the RHS of the arete around the same time – this thing is superb and very underrated. Among the best 7A highballs in the Peak IMO.

Northumberland

Shaftoe – Neb Roof
Honorary Gardoms – 7B
From the break in the back climb the roof between The Neb Roof and the Original. Continue direct up the wall above.

Scotland

Ardnamurchan
Plocaig Beach, Rubha Carrach

0.5km SW of the main crag is a beautiful little white sand beach with small sea weathered gabbro walls at the back. These short solid rocks are ideal for bouldering, traversing and soloing. Up to 8m in height, there's scope for a few new routes up to mid extreme to be added.
Other easier lines climbed in June 2022. Only the standouts are recorded here (plus a couple more on UKC). Other bits still to do, including a great looking 6m slab in the next bay west, above a rockpool.

Glass Mantel – 6B
At the back of the narrow western bay is a tall block of smooth black rock. Get stood on the slippery ledge and continue up the groove.

* Glass Arete - 6C
The arete right of Glass Mantel on its left side. Great rock and lovely moves.

Plocaig Wall – 6C
On the right side of the eastern bay. The tall narrow vertical face, climbed direct without holds on features to either side. Tricky to start and then easing as height is gained.

Mull - Traigh a Mhill (details on UKC)

20m past the gully in front of Mr Rossi is a steep roof/wall:

* Three Squeaks and a Waggon Wheel - 7B
Sit start at the back of the roof on a pair of break holds. Climb straight out to the lip via a flake crack. From the lip go right past a thin crimp to a good flatty on a rib. finish up the rib.

Two Squeaks – 7A
As for TS&aWW but at the lip continue direct to an easy topout.

Down and left is a steep black tidal wall:

Jomnom Dash - 6C
The left arete of the Wall. Starting on good right hand crimp and left hand sidepull at the same level, slap up the overhanging arete.

Clachtoll – Bouldering cave

This one is from a while back, but have yet to record on UKB. This sandstone cave isleft of the main beach and behind/below the house with all the weird random stuf in the garden. The cave itself is non tidal. Probs to the left are tidal. Full deets on UKC.

* For Whom the Clach Tolls - 7A+
Central prow within the cave, climbed from a sit start. Finish at niche on the face above.


Back, Sack and Clach – 6B
On the tidal rock just left of the cave, 6m or so left of The Old Man and the Sea. Sit start the low black roof then gain a small flake on the lip of the next roof. Rock over the lip. Escape off right to avoid suspect rock above.

Achmelvich North Beach

Seven new problems added up to 6C (details on UKC), including some excellent additions. The rock and location are immaculate and there are now enough probs to make a great low/mid grade circuit.

« Last Edit: October 09, 2024, 02:15:21 pm by shark »

Fiend

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Good effort getting sandbagged by Spike  :2thumbsup:

For anyone interested in Wharncliffe, here's a couple of the things mentioned, and a lot more stuff in the mid-high 6s.

I forgot how much fun I had going over there to find Dapples Of My Heart was seeping every single fucking time. Also Mark20 will have a few more bits and bobs around the MTB track, I think.

Bonjoy

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Forgot a couple of good ones!

Padley Quarry

Longshaw Zombies – 7A+
In the middle of the quarry is a fairly obvious blank slab with an undercut. Escape left once the thin break is reached. The more direct/rightward finish which avoids the good edge out left and gains the curving crack on the right was also done by Adam long at about 7B.
https://www.instagram.com/reel/C3UnatNNtKI/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==


Staffordshire - Heild Rocks 53.20364151132614, -2.0312931847669726

* Sounds Well – E3 5c/6B
The only good bit of rock at this obscure crag. Climb the very sharp arete on its right side. The left side would also be a worthwhile addition.
https://www.instagram.com/reel/C6zH-AktT2Y/?igsh=MTNyeDQ5MTA4anhuZQ==


Here’s some other Insta vids/pics of other stuff off the list:

Jackelope LH https://www.instagram.com/reel/C8NmwIOteks/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==


What’s Uippin’?
https://www.instagram.com/p/C6gTys0tBmo/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

Mooner
https://www.instagram.com/p/C6CeenyNOWD/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

Professional Caterpillar
https://www.instagram.com/p/C5wd3CpNzsB/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

Swingeing Cuts (second vid)
https://www.instagram.com/reel/C3IOs--Nj9-/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==


Porcini Roof (not a full vid)
https://www.instagram.com/reel/C2SAsM1NTGf/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

Just Enough
https://www.instagram.com/reel/C2QXsjrtEP5/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

New Squeeze
https://www.instagram.com/reel/CzdgiFVNFT0/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

Barry Cheesecake
https://www.instagram.com/reel/CzcKxWZN0iC/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

Squ B Do
https://www.instagram.com/reel/CtZLtf6Ayk5/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

Bank Manager Low
https://www.instagram.com/reel/CrqFsbOA526/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==


For Whom the Clach Tolls
https://www.instagram.com/reel/C-a1fRwNYUz/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==


Mr Uippy
https://www.instagram.com/reel/C7Pxsw0tRz3/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

Splaygus, Sploogus and Warrior Specimen
https://www.instagram.com/reel/C33nYbnokg0/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

Edgelord
https://www.instagram.com/p/C2F6OlKNkEz/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==



The Font place I mentioned but didn’t detail
https://www.instagram.com/p/C5g3kSatFcr/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
« Last Edit: October 09, 2024, 01:09:56 pm by Bonjoy »

edshakey

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Lots to look through! Nice one.

* Sounds Well – E3 5c/6B
The only good bit of rock at this obscure crag. Climb the very sharp arete on its right side. The left side would also be a worthwhile addition.
https://www.instagram.com/reel/C8NmwIOteks/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

This route sounded intriguing, but the link is to Jackalope LH  :'(

Bonjoy

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edshakey

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SA Chris

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Nice one Bonjoy. Do you ever submit your new Scottish stuff to the SMC?

It's unlikely they will ever find it here, and a lot of it is worthy of including in future guides, IMO. 

Bonjoy

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No, but I think I’ve added all the Scottish stuff on UKC. So hopefully it’ll get picked up that way.

Tom de Gay

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I was also going to detail a new little crag we found in font, but kind of lost the will to live, so that will have to wait, or I'll put on bleau.info.
Looks good! Hoping there's a pockety traverse called Bonjoy Voyage

Bonjoy

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 :lol: No, but may have to find one

SA Chris

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No, but I think I’ve added all the Scottish stuff on UKC. So hopefully it’ll get picked up that way.

it might, but probably won't. Not all of it anyway.

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Here’s some other Insta vids/pics of other stuff off the list:

Do you have a vid of Under the Weather Jon? I struggled to tell what was in when I tried it, but probably just keeping my feet lower as I'm much lankier than you though...

Bonjoy

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I only have an attempt vid (thanks Bradders), but it does show the full sequence on the section before you join TITW.
I've posted it on IG now
https://www.instagram.com/reel/DA9dprutY_K/?igsh=MXB2a2pqaXo3c281MA==

Fultonius

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No, but I think I’ve added all the Scottish stuff on UKC. So hopefully it’ll get picked up that way.

it might, but probably won't. Not all of it anyway.

I'm not sure the SMC takes bouldering info / publishes any bouldering guides Chris? Certainly haven't in the past and I don't see it shown on the new routes page or the publications.

TBH, I think Scotland REALLY needs a good open source user-generated non profit making bouldering topo app. It's just not really commercially viable to produce a guide so it becomes a labour of love for the likes of John Watson etc. and I don't think he's planning another one?


sherlock

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Think John was planning a series of smaller local guides but hit a wall with lack of interest from potential editors.
There will be a coffee table type photo gazetteer of Scottish bouldering at some point, I believe.

JamieG

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TBH, I think Scotland REALLY needs a good open source user-generated non profit making bouldering topo app. It's just not really commercially viable to produce a guide so it becomes a labour of love for the likes of John Watson etc. and I don't think he's planning another one?


I mean it's a big country for a single guide. Just too much rock, too far apart and too few people in those areas.

The boolder app team for Font (which works absolutely brilliantly) has all there code open source and available on Github. I have literally no idea how easy/hard it would be to adapt that for a Scotland app and have user generated content. I'm not a programmer at all!


Stu Littlefair

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The boolder app team for Font (which works absolutely brilliantly) has all there code open source and available on Github. I have literally no idea how easy/hard it would be to adapt that for a Scotland app and have user generated content. I'm not a programmer at all!

Wow - that's amazing!. TBH it looks pretty easy from a coding perspective to make an app for a different area. The difficulty would be wrangling all the existing data into the correct format, getting GPS coordinates and photos for all the problems.

remus

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Wow - that's amazing!. TBH it looks pretty easy from a coding perspective to make an app for a different area. The difficulty would be wrangling all the existing data into the correct format, getting GPS coordinates and photos for all the problems.

Seconded. Code and data are available here https://github.com/boolder-org

The really nice thing is that the data is separate from the app and then pulled in to the app when it's built, so in theory 'all' you'd need to do is create a data file for another area. Probably not quite as simple as that as I imagine there'll be some bits of the app that are specific to font (e.g. the circuit property on problems won't be applicable to many areas outside font), but overall it'd be an amazing head start.

SA Chris

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I'm not sure the SMC takes bouldering info / publishes any bouldering guides Chris? Certainly haven't in the past and I don't see it shown on the new routes page or the publications.

TBH, I think Scotland REALLY needs a good open source user-generated non profit making bouldering topo app. It's just not really commercially viable to produce a guide so it becomes a labour of love for the likes of John Watson etc. and I don't think he's planning another one?

I thought I posted a link to the database uploader it definitely has facility for submitting new problems

https://smc.org.uk/climbs/submission

I am not sure how opensource you want it, but the database is growing and expanding, it might include bouldering too.

https://routes.smc.org.uk/

and the topoeditor someone made (for them?) is open source AFAIK, and really easy to use

 https://topoeditor.com/

Fultonius

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I had no idea the SMC took boulder info in. They didn't in the past, but I checked with the publications editor and they're confirmed "you might as well, we might do a boulder guide".

I would hazard a guess that it might be a long time coming...

Im going toook more into the Boolder thing. Findings blocs and topos for rent stuff in Scotland is nigh on impossible.

 

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