the shizzle > beta - chuffing

From a Distance - loose hold

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Von T:
I was on From a Distance in Stennis Ford today and noticed that the pretty crucial RH jug on the first crux is pretty wobbly and on its last legs.
Just wondering what's the ethic on a classic/popular route like this? Let the hold fall off and make the big move significantly harder, or is a dab of sika in order? I'm not local, or experienced in gluing routes together so looking for some guidance/ more experienced opinion.

I took a photo of the hold in question but it's too big to upload on here it seems.

SiWitcher:
I'd recommend not putting sika on a Pembroke trad classic. For context, routes and entire cliffs at Pembroke fall over from time to time, like the Public Enemy area at St Govan's. All part of the fun. I don't know of any examples of holds being reinforced with sika at Pembroke previously - if they have been, the sculptor has probably kept quiet about it.

Von T:
Cool, thanks. I'll let it be then. I'll just try and get the route done before it gets too hard for me  :lol:

Tony:

--- Quote from: SiWitcher on May 13, 2024, 10:26:37 am ---I don't know of any examples of holds being reinforced with sika at Pembroke previously - if they have been, the sculptor has probably kept quiet about it.

--- End quote ---

I think this has been done at Pembroke previously. I can’t put my finger on where though; I certainly know of bolt stubs which have been sika’d over and it is well known there have been some acts of downright vandalism at Pembroke historically.

If Von T is competent and wants to sika the hold without making a mess, go for it. Lots of good advice on threads on here for sika’ing limestone - do your research.

As Si hints, do not claim responsibility if you do it and it goes well. Do expect a lot of criticism if you mess it up.

Doing nothing is likely the safer option. One person’s crucial is another’s …

Bonjoy:
To be pedantic, removing the hold is the safe option if gluing is decided against

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