the shizzle > beta - chuffing

From a Distance - loose hold

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SA Chris:

--- Quote from: Bonjoy on May 14, 2024, 09:21:45 am ---To be pedantic sensible, removing the hold is the safe option if gluing is decided against

--- End quote ---

Tony:

--- Quote from: Bonjoy on May 14, 2024, 09:21:45 am ---To be pedantic, removing the hold is the safe option if gluing is decided against

--- End quote ---
Based on the information we have available, I disagree.

For the pedants, the “safe” in my reply was in relation to reputation of the individual (not) doing the remediation work.

If one chooses to attempt to onsight an E7 (especially on a sea cliff) then one should accept the need to assess the risks for one’s self as one is climbing. If one chooses to pre-inspect then one will identify the hold during the pre-inspection process (as has happened here).

I would very much not condone deliberately removing the hold based on the information available to us on this thread. This would certainly not be “safe” as per my meaning.

Bonjoy:
Objectively the route would be safer if a hold that is "on its last legs" were removed. That's all I was implying. No more, no less. Given my role I'm wary of offering opinions on the rights and wrongs of either gluing or loose hold removal. That's why I didn't.
There are multiple ways of dealing with loose holds, not just ignoring or gluing. I didn't think it was controversial to point this out.
Not massively stoked about this being called "akin to condoning chipping" in the karma log.

Tony:

--- Quote from: Bonjoy on May 14, 2024, 01:03:27 pm ---Objectively the route would be safer if a hold that is "on its last legs" were removed.
--- End quote ---

I presume you do not know Von T and their ability to assess the stability of a hold. To me they are a random person posting on a public internet forum - could be anyone. I do not know whether they predominantly climb sport or trad, frequent Craig Doris and Cilan Main.

I have frequently seen chalked X’s on blocks that would require a crowbar to remove. “Last legs” is an entirely subjective comment.

I would not even hint at removing a block on a public forum without wanting to see it for myself.

Tony:
I see some have been upset by my puntering Jon Boy with the comment, “Akin to condoning chipping.”

I’d point out:
1) that “akin” does not mean “the same as”, it means “similar” or (more literally) “related”. I meant this in the sense that chipping (often) removes some of the difficulty for those without the physical ability; the removal of perceived loose holds could be considered the removal of uncertainty for those without the psychological ability. Hence “akin”. Besides chipping and cleaning (aka removal of loose holds) has always been poorly delineated.

2) I don’t take “wadding” or “puntering” very seriously, you may have noticed.

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