the shizzle > diet, training and injuries

slabs versus overhangs as we age

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stone:
In the past year I've realised that there are loads of really great local boulder problems that I haven't tried (or known about) that are doable for me. I've been aiming at ones that take me a bit of puzzling out rather than swift ascents of easier ones. My thinking was that I'm due to get worse fairly soon as I pass through my later 50s and beyond. So my tactic will hopefully preserve a wealth of three star projects close to home well into my dotage.

My question is whether, as people have got worse due to old age, have you found certain styles of problem to have got disproportionately harder? So does eg slab climbing ability hold up for longer than overhang ability? I'm wondering whether to somehow factor this in when prioritising which problems to try.

Perhaps this whole scheme is deranged anyway. I'm keen to hear any viewpoints.

Fiend:
Yes.

Hoseyb:
I'm all for deranged.

Slabs require flexibility, good connective tissue health and skin.

Overhangs require a well maintained muscle set without imbalance or overlooked minor groups and possibly a greater amount of fast twitch maintenance.

I try to keep doing both, but that has meant switching up my game this year to try to get more consistency in my training. This is still a work in progress

abarro81:
From a routes perspective - Not tweaky and not too powerful seems important... I see plenty of older folks climbing hard on long routes on nice holds (e.g., Rodellar) and far fewer on tweaky powerful short stuff (e.g., Franken, Margalef). Of course that doesn't help much if you live in the peak where there are no long routes on nice holds  :lol:

For boulders who knows, but I imagine the broad rule about tweaky holds still stands

stone:

--- Quote from: Hoseyb on April 16, 2024, 08:10:52 am ---Slabs require flexibility, good connective tissue health and skin.

--- End quote ---
Ohhh! -point taken that I really must start stretching.

I'm wondering whether -knowing my crapness on that matter- I should get a current slab project to motivate that.

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