the shizzle > diet, training and injuries

slabs versus overhangs as we age

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SA Chris:

--- Quote from: Fiend on April 16, 2024, 07:58:54 am ---Yes.

--- End quote ---

I agree.

Or maybe just do problems in a style you like and don't worry about grade? Or just do problems in all style to make you a more all rounded climber?

duncan:
Interesting idea. Physiologists tell me power is the thing to go. I've not particularly noticed this any more than losing endurance, flexibility, work capacity, or recovery time. Possibly because I never climbed powerfully in the first place. I do now have a complete inability to jump or fall from any height without hurting myself which I guess is at least partially down to loss of power.

My biggest change is loss of recklessness, perhaps not such a bad thing.

This does not constitute advice to get the scary highballs done now!

jwi:
The fingers get thicker and thicker by year. For me who have very thick fingers to start with, on some routes it is a race to do them while I can still force the pinky into the monos. There was a route in Capucin that slipped through the fingers, as it where, since I did not get to it until my pinky no longer entered the drilled mono on the first crux.

Anything with a jump is out as well, but you'd have to be climbing pretty darn hard for that to be an issue. Many middle age male climbers still jump higher than all female 9a climbers.

Plattsy:
Traverses seem popular with old Bleausards.

jwi:

--- Quote from: Plattsy on April 16, 2024, 01:15:56 pm ---Traverses seem popular with old Bleausards.

--- End quote ---

Isn't that a bit of the case that people like stuff that was popular when they were young?

...

But my boomer opinion is that no bouldering wall should be taller than a Moon board for any reason. And that all high-balls should be toproped.

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